04 Heritage AC Service
04 Heritage AC Service
My 2004 F-150 Heritage 4.2L A/C stopped working a couple years ago, the suction/discharge line assembly got a hole in it after the high side service port pipe rubbed on the pipe going to the condenser. I have ordered a new Suction/Discharge Assembly, Liquid Line with Orifice, and Accumulator. On other vehicles I had a reference chart that said how much refrigerant oil to add back to the system after various failures. I haven't been able to find one for this. How much PAG oil should I add? 2oz?
Right, I'd put about 2 ounces of pag oil in it
But, dump both components out, drain the line and see what comes out, (probably nothing much)
So, yes, add 2 ounces
You bought a cheap evacuator, right?
But, dump both components out, drain the line and see what comes out, (probably nothing much)
So, yes, add 2 ounces
You bought a cheap evacuator, right?
It sits oiled unless vented when the hose failed, but I would swap it for sure...same with the accumulator. Do it once from the get go.
Here in Texas we get about 10 years from the FS10, so that truck would have had two compressors now.
PAO68 is better oil, you can fill and drain the comp repeatedly to flush it.
Here in Texas we get about 10 years from the FS10, so that truck would have had two compressors now.
PAO68 is better oil, you can fill and drain the comp repeatedly to flush it.
It sits oiled unless vented when the hose failed, but I would swap it for sure...same with the accumulator. Do it once from the get go.
Here in Texas we get about 10 years from the FS10, so that truck would have had two compressors now.
PAO68 is better oil, you can fill and drain the comp repeatedly to flush it.
Here in Texas we get about 10 years from the FS10, so that truck would have had two compressors now.
PAO68 is better oil, you can fill and drain the comp repeatedly to flush it.
If you are this deep, I would just take it and do it all.
I am aware it is easy to spend another's funds, if this is a vehicle to flip the do the minimum and send it. Keeper? Replace the stuff. The condenser will be a pain to flush, cheap to replace.
I am aware it is easy to spend another's funds, if this is a vehicle to flip the do the minimum and send it. Keeper? Replace the stuff. The condenser will be a pain to flush, cheap to replace.
Trending Topics
Realized that I'm not sure what type of compressor is used so I went out and found what looks like a good reference. I don't know if the bores of the cylinders are coated or not, but if not it seems like they could corrode like engine cylinders do, if left open, even if made of aluminum.
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...-variable.html
Here's another good video.
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...-variable.html
Here's another good video.
Last edited by BareBonesXL; Feb 19, 2026 at 02:13 PM.
I have a good vacuum pump, as far as recovery goes there's no Freon left in the system to recover.
I'd run the compressor on there until you have trouble with it
Yep 8cfm YellowJacket Superevac and a JB Supernova Micron Gauge. That’s what I was planning to do, suppose you could say I’m cheap. I replaced the Evaporator core in my F-250 late last summer, that system was depleted when I got the truck. I had it around 2 years at that point. Compressor hasn’t had any issues yet.
Got parts today, I'm questioning the accumulator. It didn't come vacuum sealed, it was in a plastic bag which was wrapped closed but not vacuum sealed. The service port and pressure switch port on the accumulator are capped and there are plastic caps over the accumulator hose connections but it's not under vacuum either. System's I've worked on in the past used desiccant bags in the condenser which were shipped in a vacuum sealed bag. Is the desiccant in this new accumulator already moisture contaminated since it's not vacuum sealed. Carquest brand part. I'm under the impression the desiccant should be exposed to atmospheric air for as little amount of time as possible.












