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Old Mar 2, 2026 | 01:43 AM
  #16  
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Not necessarily
Pull the manifold off the back of the compressor and check for any blackness or metal filings in the discharge port
Otherwise, just replace that fixed orifice tube and recheck it on a year or two
 
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Old Mar 2, 2026 | 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
Not necessarily
Pull the manifold off the back of the compressor and check for any blackness or metal filings in the discharge port
Otherwise, just replace that fixed orifice tube and recheck it on a year or two
No blackness, maybe a couple tiny specks of metal is all. Can’t say for sure if it was even that, just something that reflected back more brightly than the cast housing of the compressor. I have a new Orfice Tube and liquid line. I could replace the compressor if it would mean a more long term repair. However in my experience new doesn’t ALWAYS mean better.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2026 | 02:54 AM
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Right, I use noise to help me determine when it's time to replace one
Seen a whole bunch blow up and have had to use the flush machine and the expensive Ford flush a few times
That is unpleasant (using the flush machine) and expensive
However, I think I'd run your compressor if no black or metal filings were present
 
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Old Mar 2, 2026 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
Right, I use noise to help me determine when it's time to replace one
Seen a whole bunch blow up and have had to use the flush machine and the expensive Ford flush a few times
That is unpleasant (using the flush machine) and expensive
However, I think I'd run your compressor if no black or metal filings were present
What would I see on the orfice tube if the compressor had failed? Completely plugged?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2026 | 02:19 PM
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Possibly completely plugged and way more metal
You would not see any screen, just aluminum filings
 
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Old Mar 2, 2026 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
Possibly completely plugged and way more metal
You would not see any screen, just aluminum filings
I’d imagine they shed some material as wear in normal operation? As far as I know that could be the original compressor. There aren’t any ac system components that stand out as being newer.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2026 | 05:37 PM
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There is always something floating around in there
That orifice screen catches it
 
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Old Mar 3, 2026 | 12:45 AM
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What do you make of this? The old line was slightly different than the new one. The new line I have is part# T56105 the tube is reduced down where it comes out of the rubber hose at the evaporator end. When connecting the line into the evaporator it puts the rubber portion into a bend. The old one was shorter at that end, not necked down and the rubber portion wasn't cranked around like this new one. It appears that that is the correct part#. Also seems like the manufactures are using pictures of this line that doesn't necessarily represent what you'll receive. Rock Auto lists that number under "Famous Brand" and 4Seasons, the 4 Season's one looks like this new one, the "Famous" looks like my old one which is what I ordered and clearly that isn't the case. O reilly sells 56105 under their Murray brand and it looks like the new one I have. Auto Zone has the 4 seasons listed and it looks like my old one. Then if you check NAPA they show one that looks like the new one I have. Sure it will work, but it seems like it would be better if the line wasn't under such a harsh angle.



 

Last edited by Aaronw12; Mar 3, 2026 at 02:06 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2026 | 02:42 AM
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I bend the aluminum tube so as to put less strain on the rubber hose
I think it'll work
 
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Old Mar 3, 2026 | 02:43 AM
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I get lines and manifolds from 1800 Radiator
The China stuff is always **** poor
 
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Old Mar 3, 2026 | 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
I get lines and manifolds from 1800 Radiator
The China stuff is always **** poor
Hadn’t heard of them, do they make their own lines or have access to better quality ones?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2026 | 04:06 AM
  #27  
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Basically, a wholesale operation which sells jobber prices to shops and other auto parts houses (but they sell to individuals too) Used to be Jmac radiator
As far as quality, it's all the same junk unless it has a Ford or GM sticker on it and even then?
They sell brands like Evco and EIS and the parts are as good as you can get these days (some still made in good ole China)
 
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Old Mar 3, 2026 | 04:09 AM
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When I buy from them
I don't pay much more than 125 bucks for a radiator regardless of if it's a new Mercedes or an old Camaro
Buddy of mine was telling me he was going to get his Jeep radiator re cored for 300, I said "why don't I just get you a new one for 150 or less"?
That was 14 years ago and that radiator is still in his Moab red rock Jeep
 
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 02:11 AM
  #29  
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It is hooked up, not a real big fan of that angle but apparently that’s what I’ve got to work with. Called a few different auto parts stores, the part # I have is the only liquid line available for the vehicle. According to them. Ford has discontinued it, my old one wasn’t leaking but I can see a few small cracks in the rubber hose portion of it. Don’t really want to reuse it either. Rockauto lists a Motorcraft hose part # YF3390 looks to have the same end at the evaporator core. But has a second rubber section near the condenser connection. Also have no way to know the actual length. Application says from build date of 4/12/2004. Mine has a build date of 12/03.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 02:08 AM
  #30  
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I found the correct replacement Liquid Line. None of the parts stores or their websites list it. They only list the 56105 line. Parts guy cross referenced the Ford part # off the original line. He came up with Omega # 34-63455, it fits. Looks exactly like the original besides only 1 foam pad and didn’t include the hold down bracket. I used the bracket and 1 foam pad off the old line.
 
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