Good evening FTE, I’m currently trying to release my coworkers truck, 2018 F150 3.5 eco boost, back to him, however when I started up the truck it shakes at idle throwing a P0019 code. Here’s what I’ve done: complete front end tear down of engine replacing all timing components with brand new; Vvt actuators, solenoids, timing chains, guides and tensioners. Got it all put back together and it shakes at idle, pull the code and the p0019 pops up with nothing else, checked the ohms on the new solenoids and I get 8.0 on both intake and exhaust, swapped around the camshaft position sensors, still the same. I pulled out FORScan and pulled the vct readings for the actual and desired and the bank 2 is requesting -14 and getting 14. I unplug the solenoid and it shows fault on FORScan plug it in and no fault. If you unplug it there’s no difference. What am I missing? Am I going to have to take the entire front end of the engine off again to determine the fix? Any and all help is appreciated.

 

Are they OEM Motorcraft solenoids? Fords can be very picky about aftermarket electronic parts.

 

No sir they are melling solenoids and parts.

 

Im going to pull the valve cover today and double check the timing on the drivers side at least, but I found that these camshafts are notorious for the reluctor ring to move after a while, so I’m going to check that as well to see. Especially since everything else is checking out just fine.

 

Took the valve cover off and found that the camshaft reluctor had moved to the 12 o’clock position but was supposed to be at the 11 o’clock position, got it put back where it belongs and no longer have the p0019 code. As of right now I have a p0394 code and the exhaust vvt actuator sounds like it’s about to come through the engine cover. I pulled the live data on FORScan and have cmp2_exh_f in the table with all the vct items and it keeps switching from fault to no fault and back again over and over again. Could this be a bad vct solenoid causing this? I pulled the wire off the solenoid and it’s getting 12 volts to one pin and 3 volts to the other. What am I missing? All the degrees have gone to zero at idle and the oil pressure is jumping around. The oil is brand new with all the components.

 

I Just walked in from putting the front cover on a 3.5EB 2018. Doing a complete timing job on it.... The double color mark split on the crank sprocket, and the other 2 color links on the intake and exaust timing marks.. OEM is the only way to go on this stuff with the updated vct's of course as well. Not fun doing it twice with aftermarket stuff.... Only thing I do thats not by the book is TA31 silicone.. Seems to last way longer then that 357 junk..
Also, did you use the cam holding tools?

 

Yes sir I did, I even used it when I pulled the valve cover to check the reluctor wheel and knocked it back into place so I wasn’t putting any unneeded stress on the chain and actuator itself.

 

It could be an electricasl issue but my vote is timing is off.. A vct solenoid shouldn't be making noise. You said its making a loud noise? Maybe the VCT itself is knocking, you mean?

 

I have the timing exactly where the old one was and the actuators right on the timing marks on the chain, now that I switched the solenoids over to the originals I’m getting the p0019 back and now a p0025. Not only all that but the phaser on the exhaust side is making awful racket. I’m fed up with this truck but I can’t just give him back the truck with how it is.

 

This is right this second with the valve cover off and the camshafts locked in place with the holding tool

Camshafts with holding tool

 

Anybody wanting to hear what it sounds like, here’s the link to my private video on YouTube of the truck.

 

Are your holding tools correct? I saw a video of the aftermarket holding the cams out of place by just a little causing timing issues on assembly.
I am watching this because I don't know now if it is something I would even attempt to do on my own.
Wish I had an answer for you please post when you fix it so we know what the solution ends up being.

 

Yes these are the correct timing tools, they are the ones the dealership recommended for me to use. Yes if you are not experienced with these don’t, I repeat don’t do it. As soon as I figure it out I’ll post back here. I do however think I’ll have to replace the cam phaser that’s now malfunctioning so I’ll be reopening the front end of the engine in order to fix it but that’ll be after I have the parts on hand because I’ll have to replace the tensioners again since I’ll be unbolting them.

 

Those phasers are the old style.. I would recommend the new style like in the picture I posted..... Also your tensioners can be reused..They can be put in a vise and the holding pin reinstalled... Or you can replace again. Up to you.

 

Anyway I can save money is better because now everything is coming out of my pocket since the truck is having issues after the parts my customer bought gave out. Where would I go for those phasers? I’m going to just replace the phasers since everything else is brand spanking new.