Brakes help
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 134
Likes: 6
Brakes help
Hey guys, got my 68 running , started brakes.
i have the MC bled, but got no juice going from the front brake port. Also, I have juice going down the rear port but non gets to the bleeders. Any help what would you start taking apart?
also, I have my carb on, no vac leaks , for some reason my idle screw have no impact, I can turn all the way in or out- same rpms. And it’s running pretty high up there. Any help?
thank you!
i have the MC bled, but got no juice going from the front brake port. Also, I have juice going down the rear port but non gets to the bleeders. Any help what would you start taking apart?
also, I have my carb on, no vac leaks , for some reason my idle screw have no impact, I can turn all the way in or out- same rpms. And it’s running pretty high up there. Any help?
thank you!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,836
Likes: 261
From: Piney Woods of East Texas
On the engine running high rpm, back off the throttle stop. If running too high your idle mixtures are not in play. Need to get down into the 700 rpm range for your adjuster to work.
As for your brakes I'm trying to understand what your saying.
You said you have bleed the MC and have no air bubbles coming out, front and rear. Is this a new MC or original rebuilt?
You said your not getting fluid to the bleeders, is the MC fluid level going down? Is the petal going to the floor, not staying firm? Did you replace any of the rubber brake lines? Check for leaks.
As for your brakes I'm trying to understand what your saying.
You said you have bleed the MC and have no air bubbles coming out, front and rear. Is this a new MC or original rebuilt?
You said your not getting fluid to the bleeders, is the MC fluid level going down? Is the petal going to the floor, not staying firm? Did you replace any of the rubber brake lines? Check for leaks.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 134
Likes: 6
On the engine running high rpm, back off the throttle stop. If running too high your idle mixtures are not in play. Need to get down into the 700 rpm range for your adjuster to work.
As for your brakes I'm trying to understand what your saying.
You said you have bleed the MC and have no air bubbles coming out, front and rear. Is this a new MC or original rebuilt?
You said your not getting fluid to the bleeders, is the MC fluid level going down? Is the petal going to the floor, not staying firm? Did you replace any of the rubber brake lines? Check for leaks.
As for your brakes I'm trying to understand what your saying.
You said you have bleed the MC and have no air bubbles coming out, front and rear. Is this a new MC or original rebuilt?
You said your not getting fluid to the bleeders, is the MC fluid level going down? Is the petal going to the floor, not staying firm? Did you replace any of the rubber brake lines? Check for leaks.
also, brake wise- MC seems to only bleed the rear port, fluid went down there but did not reach any of the rear wheels.
the front port level won’t change at all.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 134
Likes: 6
not yet, trying to see why I get no juice to the wheels first
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 113
Likes: 24
From: Springfield, Illinois
Open all bleeders and dont touch pedal, just keep topping off fluid. Its called gravity bleeding can take a bit.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 134
Likes: 6
just open the bleeders and leave everything as it is with MC full ?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 113
Likes: 24
From: Springfield, Illinois
Yes with Master full and lid off, you will need to keep an eye on it, you don't want the master to go dry or you will have to take it off and bench bleed it again.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 134
Likes: 6
I’ll give it a try! Overnight should be long enough?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,534
Likes: 2,664
From: Near Salt Lake City
The wheel cylinders may be too rusted up to let fluid through until the master cylinder is fully bled and starts pushing fluid under pressure
Start over on the bleed procedure for the master cylinder and use brake lines or the hoses in the bleed kit
One port always bleeds first and pushes fluid all over the place while the other port is just beginning to get bled out
If you use spare brake lines instead of the plastic lines it is easier
Start over on the bleed procedure for the master cylinder and use brake lines or the hoses in the bleed kit
One port always bleeds first and pushes fluid all over the place while the other port is just beginning to get bled out
If you use spare brake lines instead of the plastic lines it is easier
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 149
Likes: 18
Did you replace the brake lines? It’s possible they’re clogged with rust. On mine I had to spray brake cleaner down and then blew them out with an air gun. My rears cleared out and I reused them, but the front lines are toast and will need to be replaced. So might wanna try that. I also agree that you need to do a full brake job: new cylinders, shoes, drums & hardware.
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