Your post is blank, something about a "double post"

 

It was edited because I was asking if the tranny was acting up because of low fuel PSI. Someone (can't find thread) had a shop tell them their transmission problem was due to a bad fuel pump.

 

No, this happened without warning. Everything was fine as I was running a number of errands and when I started it after the last stop it was coughing and sputtering. I could not even keep it running enough to see what the transmission was doing. And yes that was me, after they installed the new transmission I could not accelerate because the engine had no power. It had no power because the pump was not providing enough volume of fuel.

 

Over the years I've often read about how some of the aftermarket pumps are pretty bad.

5 years ago I installed a Bosch 67000 and it's done fine but they don't seem to be available now.

 

You cut the floor but are having them replace the pump?
Okay if under warranty and they do it free I guess, not worth the tow bill IMO, it's an easy job with an access panel

 

The tow is on AAA, so unless they want to mess with the electrical issue this will only cost me a five mile Uber ride.

 

Sweet

 

Can you hear that old Canned Heat song, "I'm on the Road Again".... Dropped it off at 9 and had it back by noon, and to top it off they even picked up the tab for the Uber.

 

Feb. 20th:
Did the new Fuel Pump solve the problem ?

 

Yes and No, yes the fuel pump was bad, but no, the fuel pump circuit is still bad. I bypassed the bad part of the circuit and installed a switch on the dash so I can manually turn the fuel pump on and off. This is a temporary fix till I can install a bypass off the ignition or repair the bad part of the circuit. I am thinking pin 75 in the main harness connector is bad and that would be darn near impossible to fix. So I am thinking a permanent bypass is the way to go.

 

This posting is now a month old since having the fuel pump replaced.
Just curious of if you swapped out the Relay, and if that solved the circuit problem.

Relays typically are analog, meaning they have "Contact Points" to close the circuit, just like "points" ignitions of the '50's and '60's vehicles.
Those points can only open and close a limited number of times before they get corroded, thus restricting the power thru them, similar to a resistor.

I had a fuel pump issue, and upon removing the Relay, I took dremel and cut the plastic cover off of the relay.
Next, I carefully cleaned the points contacts, and re-installed. _ _ Voila, full power thru the points that were corroded. _ electrical basics.

As an example: - continuity & current load:
I had a computer monitor go south. I dropped it off a a computer guru repair shop.
When the guy phoned and said the monitor was repaired and ready for pick-up, I was thrilled.
The day I went in to pick up my monitor, he was wearing Jeweler's magnifying Glasses, and studying a circuit board. I asked him what he was looking for.
He said he was looking for a break in the solder of the circuit board. He said the break in the circuit will check fine for continuity, BUT won't carry the necessary Load.
That is just like a corroded connection. The corroded connection may check fine for continuity, but won't carry the necessary load.
Yep, similar to an old battery. You can charge it up, and your test gauge will show 13.2 volts. Put a load on it to crank the engine over, _ _ and a No Go.

 

First I opened the relay and sanded the contacts with emery cloth. Then I swapped the relay with the ABS relay which is the exact same relay. Neither did any good. I am going to further investigate as time permits. I found the "take out" splice, and I am going to open that splice to further isolate the issue, but frankly it's easier to just operate the pump manually and I may just leave it at that.