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I have a pressure gauge and I'm only getting 14psi. I just checked the voltage at the pump connector and I am only getting 6.8 volts, so this is an electrical problem. I have 12 volts at the pump relay, and the next down stream item is the Inertial switch. I am getting only 6.8 Volts there as well. Something is pulling my voltage down between the relay and the Inertial switch, probably a bad connector I'll need to track down. Strange thing though.. when I turn on the key the voltage jumps to 12 volts and then immediately drops to 6.8. I don't understand that at all
I thought about the ground so I grounded the pump ground to the chassis and it made no difference. Can't be the ignition switch because I get 12 volts to the fuel pump relay. I'd like to make sure it's not the relay. I wonder if the other two relays close to it are the same configuration? If they are I could try swapping the Fuel relay with one of those and see if it makes a difference. There is an ABS relay in the fuse box but I only have two wheel ABS. The only ABS relay I can find in the wiring diagrams is for 4 wheel ABS, so that may not be used for anything.
Last edited by David40; Jan 24, 2026 at 07:35 PM.
Reason: More Info
What do you all think of this? How about I put a tap connector on the pump power wire and run a wire to the dashboard, a switch, and then to a 30 Amp inline fuse to the battery? For one thing it would tell me right away if the pump is working, I could actually use the van and use that as a workaround while I try to figure out where a resistance is only letting 6.8 volts through on the existing line.
That is what you do for testing, and if it is an old BMW, you leave it on there so you can run the pump when the circuit or relay quits, like you are planning to do
Thanks for that info. It will be an ongoing search to find that location. In the mean time I did the wire and switch to put 12 volts on the pump. When I turn on the switch I can actually hear the pump running. I started the engine and everything was running perfect. So I left it running and put everything away. By the time I got back and the engine was warming up it started to do the same thing, running like crap and stalling at idle. The pump was still running and I could turn it on and off but it didn't help. I figure next I will check the fuel pressure. What a pain....
A 1997 EVTM should show the exact location
I'm working on a 1990 Country Squire right now chasing a bad splice on the self test wire for the ECM
Luckily, I have a 1990 Crown Vic EVTM that shows the splice locations
I do but what I am doing at this point bypasses all of that. I am running 12 volts directly from the battery to the fuel pump. The pump runs but I am unable to get any fuel pressure reading at all.
UPDATE: Besides the wiring problem I have determined the Fuel Pump is dying. It's under warranty and I am having it towed to my local shop. To make it real easy I cut out the floor above the pump. Shouldn't take but a half hour to swap it out.
Good questions. Since they put that pump in when they replaced my transmission I have no idea what brand it is and there are no markings on it I can see.
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