bronco rear window...what next???
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Senior User
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bronco rear window...what next???
Well noe apperntly I need some new window components for the rear window on my "95" bronco. Starting to wish I had visited this sire before I bought the damn thing.
Hubs, Rear Defrost, and now the rear window mounts themselves, WHAT NEXT...rrrrrrrrrrrr
Hubs, Rear Defrost, and now the rear window mounts themselves, WHAT NEXT...rrrrrrrrrrrr
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: NJ ... the garbage state
these things you have mentioned are some common failures, do to the unreliableness of some more modern yuppie amenities on newer broncos. The basic design of your bronco is great ... very versitale and tough. Options such as you have mentioned however wernt necesarilly the greatest to begin with, rear defrosters go in almost every car, auto hubs are junk if actually used, and bronco tailgates get moisture in them which inevitibly causes rust, same with a blazer or suburban or ram charger till they went with the fiberglass hatch. In other words, these things going wrong would be basically the same if you had purchased any one of the big three. in fact, the automatic engagement systems on dodges and chevys with the vaccum actuators are much more failure prone then fords design. All in all, i think you wikll be happy with your truck, but little things may have issues, especially when you buy used because you have no clue of its past treatment/maintenance. If you can do some minor work yourself, you will get great help here in teaching you how to best accomplish these repairs, and advice on brands/remidies.
So I don't know how long I'm going to last with mine.. I don't have the cash to put into it every damn weekend.. you know.. 
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SE Michigan
careful before you spend too much unneccessary funds on that rear window. a few simple checks can save you ALOT!! what's it doing/not doing?
- is motor working? (pull rear cover and apply direct 12v to pulled motor connector)
- is KEY SWITCH applying 12v when turned? (check at same place as pulled motor connector only on switch side, duh -- may take two people and a multimeter or 12v test lamp)
- is TAILGATE SAFETY switch bad (MOST LIKELY!!)? if above two work, its your safety switch. just bypass it. disconnect from drivers side rear latch and jumper it or cut connector and twist wires).
- is motor working? (pull rear cover and apply direct 12v to pulled motor connector)
- is KEY SWITCH applying 12v when turned? (check at same place as pulled motor connector only on switch side, duh -- may take two people and a multimeter or 12v test lamp)
- is TAILGATE SAFETY switch bad (MOST LIKELY!!)? if above two work, its your safety switch. just bypass it. disconnect from drivers side rear latch and jumper it or cut connector and twist wires).
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Pulled off the access panel. Turns out the that one of the brackets the window sits on, is rusted out. So it can't slide on the track freely without binding or popping off. Think a buddy of mine may have the parts though.
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