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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

86 manifold issue

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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 12:43 PM
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86 manifold issue

So I am trying to get exhaust on the truck before I tackle the mess of fuel lines so I can finally start the truck. The previous owner had someone “rebuild” the engine he dropped it in the chassis then stopped work. Truck came with a bunch of parts in the bed he said everything that was taken off is there so I was happy to find the y pipe because it seems no one makes one. I go to install and the driver side is a completely different flange type than the pipe. I’m thinking the rebuild guy ordered new manifolds (they look new) and per the catalogues the pictures all show a 1986 5.8 f250 2wd with a flat face for pipe attachment. Y pipe is cupped for both sides. I found a cupped driver side but per summit it doesn’t fit my configuration. I was wondering if anyone’s ever seen this or know about it?

also they cut up the plastic lines for fuel system if anyone has ideas about that I’m all ears

thanks

“Wong one”
“Wong one”
“Correct one”
“Correct one”


 
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 01:43 PM
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For the plastic fuel lines, NAPA can make up what you need if you had the old one. At lease, they have the line and fittings if you need to make your own.

You might find info here.
https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1986-evtm.html


Have you asked around the local auto parts stores like NAPA to see what they have to adapt that pipe to that manifold.

An exhaust shop may be able to put a new flange on that pipe...? Then just get a flat gasket.

I'm sure one of the experts will chime in soon.
 

Last edited by Max Capacity; Jan 7, 2026 at 01:49 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Capacity
For the plastic fuel lines, NAPA can make up what you need if you had the old one. At lease, they have the line and fittings if you need to make your own.

You might find info here.
https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1986-evtm.html


Have you asked around the local auto parts stores like NAPA to see what they have to adapt that pipe to that manifold.

I’ll be saving that link thank you, our Napa around here isn’t great around here for anything you can’t tell them exactly what you need, this is all a today thing, before the kids woke up and during their nap was when I was working on it.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 02:29 PM
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See how long the studs are on the problem side? That is because there is a piece that goes in there called a "heat riser". Look around in the back of the truck and see if you can find it. It might have gotten thrown away with the old manifolds. I will see if I can find a picture of it.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Lds79ford
So I am trying to get exhaust on the truck before I tackle the mess of fuel lines so I can finally start the truck. The previous owner had someone “rebuild” the engine he dropped it in the chassis then stopped work. Truck came with a bunch of parts in the bed he said everything that was taken off is there so I was happy to find the y pipe because it seems no one makes one. I go to install and the driver side is a completely different flange type than the pipe. I’m thinking the rebuild guy ordered new manifolds (they look new) and per the catalogues the pictures all show a 1986 5.8 f250 2wd with a flat face for pipe attachment. Y pipe is cupped for both sides. I found a cupped driver side but per summit it doesn’t fit my configuration. I was wondering if anyone’s ever seen this or know about it?
I ran into the exact same issue with my '84 351W. About ten years ago, I replaced both of the original exhaust manifolds due to cracks. The only option available was from Dorman. For the left, I ordered #674155, and it had the flat flange just like you have. The parts listing were wrong, at least for my #8600 GVW version.

The flat flange is designed for a heat riser valve. My truck did NOT have one, but am not sure about your model. This is the short valve that fits between the manifold and downpipe. Here's an example (illustration only, actually for a Jeep), showing the cupped face that mates with the downpipe:




Did you find anything like that in the pile of parts? Does the downpipe reach up to the existing manifold, or it shorter to compensate for the thickness of a heat riser valve? If not previously equipped with a heat riser valve, the previous owner had probably inadvertently ordered the wrong manifold, just like I did. I returned the wrong one and got a Dorman #674152 just like you are thinking. It worked perfectly, even though it's not correct per the (incorrect?) catalog.

 

Last edited by kr98664; Jan 7, 2026 at 06:43 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 02:38 PM
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Here's what it looks like originally. It takes a flat gasket on top, and has the flare ball to accept the y-pipe on the bottom.


 
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 03:23 PM
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Thanks so much I’ll have to dig through when the kids go to bed, I don’t recall seeing that anywhere, I ordered the one manifold with the cup to see if it’ll work.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2026 | 08:57 AM
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Almost forgot to mention one minor warning. One of the manifolds I got didn't match the picture exactly. It was a universal style, with extra holes (and plugs) for an oxygen sensor and thermactor (air injection) pipes. If not so equipped, you simply left the holes plugged. Didn't think to check them, but one was loose and rattled out after a couple of days, making quite the racket. If your new manifolds have plugs, make sure they are tight.

When attaching the downpipes to the manifolds, I highly recommend replacing the original steel nuts with brass. Use lots of anti-seize, too. If the brass nuts were to seize, at least they won’t damage the studs during removal. Clean up the studs with a die when disassembled.

Consider the brass nuts expendable, to be replaced at any subsequent reassembly. The threads are 7/16”-14 and should be available at any hardware store.

 

Last edited by kr98664; Jan 8, 2026 at 09:03 AM.
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Old Jan 8, 2026 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by kr98664
Almost forgot to mention one minor warning. One of the manifolds I got didn't match the picture exactly. It was a universal style, with extra holes (and plugs) for an oxygen sensor and thermactor (air injection) pipes. If not so equipped, you simply left the holes plugged. Didn't think to check them, but one was loose and rattled out after a couple of days, making quite the racket. If your new manifolds have plugs, make sure they are tight.

will do thanks
 
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