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6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

Installed Flo-Pro Intercooler pipe today

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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 08:23 PM
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Installed Flo-Pro Intercooler pipe today

I just finished the install of the Flo-Pro cold side intercooler pipe I had ordered. Getting the stock pipe out wasn't that hard. Just loosen up the intercooler boots and slide them off.


It is removed by going back towards the engine. Once I got it out, this is what I found after 18,400 miles on the truck.

Once I get a little time and money, the next thing going on the truck is the CCV mod that Senix did a write up on!!!!
Had to do some trimming to get the new pipe in since it is not bent exactly like the OEM one.

As yo u can see here, I had to remove quite a bit more aluminum from the support than I first thought due to the angle of the new pipe. Hit it with a rattle can on looks something like this.

Then went back an did a little shaping up of the support and got the pipe through it.


Once it was installed, I got the boots on and torqued to 60 in lbs and then zip tied the A/C line to the positive battery cable to keep it from rubbing the pipe.


After driving the truck around, it is a little louder than it was before. I did not gain hardly any throttle response as it is still basically a stock truck without a dpf delete. Those trucks spool much faster and have a much quicker throttle response. When I got back, I noticed that the pipe was rubbing the painted steel part of the support, so I cut a piece of plastic to go between the two areas and all is well. I did however, notice a difference in the way the truck accelerates and picks up once it is moving. So, overall I am satisfied. For now.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 08:53 PM
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cost ? How much time?

Looks nice
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Ding126
cost ? How much time?

Looks nice
I paid around $160 for the pipe and it took about 2 1/2 hours as I was trying to get it out without removing so much aluminum. But just go ahead and cut more first. If I had it wouldn't have taken nearly as long. Started out with a die grinder and moved up to an electric grinder/cutter being careful not to hit any AC lines.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 09:04 AM
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Some people recommend you take the black aluminum core support off of the truck by removing the 6 bolts across it and removing the hood latch. I did not do this. I used my grinders with it on the truck. Just make sure you take an air wand and blow all aluminum shards out of the engine area when done. You don't want to start the engine with all those pieces of aluminum caught up in the pulleys and belt. Also make sure you cover the pipes going into the intake elbow and the CAC with towels prior to starting.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 09:16 AM
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Great looking job! I have thought about doing something like this..maybe next?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 10:10 AM
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Take a look at the difference in the size of the pipes.

The new pipe is a bit longer. It does close the gap between the elbow/pipe and the CAC/pipe.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 03:18 PM
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Eeek! Looks great though.... The thought of grinding away at the frame is like me sitting in the dentist chair getting my teeth ground out for a root canal :-(

I'm wondering if there's any benefit of wrapping the pipe in some insulation such as the FrostKing peel-and-stick HVAC wrap to keep the pipe from picking up engine bay heat on the way back in.

I was playing around with my F150 this weekend and noted a 10-15F rise between outside ambient air and IAT. I'll check my F350 later this week....
 
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 03:42 PM
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The black part you see is a radiator core support. It can be removed and ground with it off the truck following this link http://www.streetdieselperformance.c...2nd_draft_.pdf
I chose to do it on the truck to save time, but either way it can be done, then painted and no one will be able to tell unless they know what they are looking for. I'm not sure about the temp factor. After driving it, I came home and the pipe was cold to the touch. There are a couple pipes out there that are ceramic wrapped.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 05:23 AM
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Isn't the core support that you cut, not steel ?

How much Louder is this pipe ?

I want one, but don't wanna add more Noise.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by BROWN DOG KTM
Isn't the core support that you cut, not steel ?

How much Louder is this pipe ?

I want one, but don't wanna add more Noise.
The black part that you cut is aluminum and is an overlay to the core support itself. Yes, the main core support behind this part is steel. The CAC and hood latch all attach through the piece you trim, to the steel support.

It was louder, however I got to looking and found why. The pipe was rubbing the main support(burgundy steel), and transferring sound. So I cut an old rv antifreeze bottle and put a piece in between the pipe and the support. Most all sound is gone now. I still think it is a little louder than normal, but most wouldn't know the difference. With the radio at normal volume, I can't tell the difference. Only on hard throttle starts with it quiet in the cab do you notice it.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by aquaman
Eeek! Looks great though.... The thought of grinding away at the frame is like me sitting in the dentist chair getting my teeth ground out for a root canal :-(

I'm wondering if there's any benefit of wrapping the pipe in some insulation such as the FrostKing peel-and-stick HVAC wrap to keep the pipe from picking up engine bay heat on the way back in.

I was playing around with my F150 this weekend and noted a 10-15F rise between outside ambient air and IAT. I'll check my F350 later this week....
what type of gauges and sensors do you have that you have a IAT[intake air temp]? just sat in a gale banks seminar and he was talking this stuff like it was a soon to be released product ?
 
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by golfmedik
I just finished the install of the Flo-Pro cold side intercooler pipe I had ordered. Getting the stock pipe out wasn't that hard. Just loosen up the intercooler boots and slide them off.


It is removed by going back towards the engine. Once I got it out, this is what I found after 18,400 miles on the truck.

Once I get a little time and money, the next thing going on the truck is the CCV mod that Senix did a write up on!!!!
Had to do some trimming to get the new pipe in since it is not bent exactly like the OEM one.

As yo u can see here, I had to remove quite a bit more aluminum from the support than I first thought due to the angle of the new pipe. Hit it with a rattle can on looks something like this.

Then went back an did a little shaping up of the support and got the pipe through it.


Once it was installed, I got the boots on and torqued to 60 in lbs and then zip tied the A/C line to the positive battery cable to keep it from rubbing the pipe.


After driving the truck around, it is a little louder than it was before. I did not gain hardly any throttle response as it is still basically a stock truck without a dpf delete. Those trucks spool much faster and have a much quicker throttle response. When I got back, I noticed that the pipe was rubbing the painted steel part of the support, so I cut a piece of plastic to go between the two areas and all is well. I did however, notice a difference in the way the truck accelerates and picks up once it is moving. So, overall I am satisfied. For now.
why the bungs on the engine side of the new pipe? at first i thought they were for the CCV mod on the radiator side ? but I see them on the elbow side and thought the catch can went outside? I just ordered this pipe so am thinking about the CCV mod next thanx for posting.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 05:10 AM
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The bungs on the pipe are for Nitro or Propane injection for high horsepower applications. Lots of people use this pipe for sled pulling. They put them in the pipe while making it so people wouldn't have to drill and tap the pipe themselves. It comes with the two plugs, I just put teflon tape on them and tightened them down.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by golfmedik
The bungs on the pipe are for Nitro or Propane injection for high horsepower applications. Lots of people use this pipe for sled pulling. They put them in the pipe while making it so people wouldn't have to drill and tap the pipe themselves. It comes with the two plugs, I just put teflon tape on them and tightened them down.
Thanks for the reply ,Gale Banks is talking about a H2O/methanol injection along with some other gauges etc. too sporty for me I'm looking to add a few years to the life of the motor and fuel economy . I think i've reached the top with economy, 10-12mpg towing a 6,500lb trailer 17mpg hwy solo,this cold side pipe will be a performance /longevity mod and will probably do the CCV catch can later this year
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 08:40 PM
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Just installed the MBRP Pipe. Factory one was CLEAN INSIDE. Not a single trace of oil.

<a href="http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i34/westwoodlands/?action=view&current=null-5.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i34/westwoodlands/null-5.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

I notice about 15-20 degrees cooler EGT's, slight throttle response and a slight change in engine noise. Easy install. About 35 minutes. Just take the support off, clamp it to a bench and get after it with a 4" angle grinder. I don't think the support is aluminum as its somewhat tough to grind with a diamond wheel. Eric at PTP said he thinks its an alloy of aluminum and magnesium or something. I say for $140, it's well worth it.
 
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