It died!
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2022
Posts: 212
Likes: 44
Below is a quote from Jim at Rosewood…
My opinion, 45 psi is borderline to start causing issues. I don't know of an absolute psi number as there are a ton of variables. But the idea to maintain fuel pressure is not just lubrication of the internals but also pressure to push the Plunger back up after it has done it's injection of the fuel, for best injector performance. 7.3's just like to be around 60 - 65 psi of fuel pressure. If you try 85 psi or more you lose performance, and if you run 45 - 50 psi you lose performance. I made these changes on a dyno probably 18 years ago and this is what I found. But try for 60 - 65 psi so IF your pressure drops 5 or 10 psi then you're still safe from harm. Performance might suffer, but you'd still be safe from damaging the injectors.
If you see 45 psi at idle and then it drops to 30 psi or less under load, then you certainly will cause injector damage.
I’m not sure what you have going on there and without having the truck in my shop doing the checks to eliminate I’m just throwing darts.
With all that aftermarket stuff in there it just makes it more difficult to diagnose.
Is the FPR leaking between the bowl and the housing? Maybe those almost stripped threads have let go and it’s losing pressure there. How about the newly replaced fuel drain valve?
Seems like either the pump isn’t building or something is bleeding off the pressure.
” CAPTAN OBVIOUS”
Wish I could be more help.
My opinion, 45 psi is borderline to start causing issues. I don't know of an absolute psi number as there are a ton of variables. But the idea to maintain fuel pressure is not just lubrication of the internals but also pressure to push the Plunger back up after it has done it's injection of the fuel, for best injector performance. 7.3's just like to be around 60 - 65 psi of fuel pressure. If you try 85 psi or more you lose performance, and if you run 45 - 50 psi you lose performance. I made these changes on a dyno probably 18 years ago and this is what I found. But try for 60 - 65 psi so IF your pressure drops 5 or 10 psi then you're still safe from harm. Performance might suffer, but you'd still be safe from damaging the injectors.
If you see 45 psi at idle and then it drops to 30 psi or less under load, then you certainly will cause injector damage.
I’m not sure what you have going on there and without having the truck in my shop doing the checks to eliminate I’m just throwing darts.
With all that aftermarket stuff in there it just makes it more difficult to diagnose.
Is the FPR leaking between the bowl and the housing? Maybe those almost stripped threads have let go and it’s losing pressure there. How about the newly replaced fuel drain valve?
Seems like either the pump isn’t building or something is bleeding off the pressure.
” CAPTAN OBVIOUS”
Wish I could be more help.
Maybe a spring from pick n pull is the answer.
I still need to find a gauge pod.
I am a far ways away from you.
Lost performance and bad for injectors are 2 different things. I have no issue taking a 2 out of the spring, or maybe i order a better fpr with the mutiple different springs.
Because this fuel system is different.....different solutions are required. That said, the real question...is how did this run for 5 years? Lol
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 2,930
Likes: 2,188
From: Langley B.C. Canada
I didnt see any leaks. Im going to drive it home tomorrow. Maybe the spring needs a bit of time to settle and pressure will gradually decrease? . I mean at 95psi, the pump is building pressure. Perhaps it is expecting more restriction on the intake side of the pump? Restriction would be low as the pre filter is still bypassed. Ill put some fuel in the other tank and play with it when i get that pressure gauge on it.
Maybe a spring from pick n pull is the answer.
I still need to find a gauge pod.
I am a far ways away from you.
Lost performance and bad for injectors are 2 different things. I have no issue taking a 2 out of the spring, or maybe i order a better fpr with the mutiple different springs.
Because this fuel system is different.....different solutions are required. That said, the real question...is how did this run for 5 years? Lol
Maybe a spring from pick n pull is the answer.
I still need to find a gauge pod.
I am a far ways away from you.
Lost performance and bad for injectors are 2 different things. I have no issue taking a 2 out of the spring, or maybe i order a better fpr with the mutiple different springs.
Because this fuel system is different.....different solutions are required. That said, the real question...is how did this run for 5 years? Lol
30 psi engine running isn’t good.
I have a gold spring from Riff Raff rated for 62psi that I’m willing to throw in an envelope for you.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2022
Posts: 212
Likes: 44
That 30 psi was that KOER or after you turned off the ignition. The factory FPR is designed to bleed off FP when you shut it down. Also the fuel pump is on a relay that times out after 20 seconds if the engine isn’t started.
30 psi engine running isn’t good.
I have a gold spring from Riff Raff rated for 62psi that I’m willing to throw in an envelope for you.
30 psi engine running isn’t good.
I have a gold spring from Riff Raff rated for 62psi that I’m willing to throw in an envelope for you.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,851
Likes: 2,329
From: WV
It should drop quickly once the key is off, at least with stock parts. The original plunger has a small hole through it like Les was saying.
I assume your new plunger does not have a hole? I seem to recall people mentioning this with Amazon parts. Not sure that it would cause any issues though.
My thoughts on your 95 psi at idle:
1- This can happen if the spring isn’t seated correctly in the cap or maybe if the return line is pushed in too far (I think). @Sous has dealt with that before.
2- Did you blow out that return line? Maybe the spring and part of the FPR cap is partially blocking the return.
I don’t remember ever reading about over pressure causing damage, just performance and strain on the pump. I’d drive it home at this point so the truck is easier to work on.
I assume your new plunger does not have a hole? I seem to recall people mentioning this with Amazon parts. Not sure that it would cause any issues though.
My thoughts on your 95 psi at idle:
1- This can happen if the spring isn’t seated correctly in the cap or maybe if the return line is pushed in too far (I think). @Sous has dealt with that before.
2- Did you blow out that return line? Maybe the spring and part of the FPR cap is partially blocking the return.
I don’t remember ever reading about over pressure causing damage, just performance and strain on the pump. I’d drive it home at this point so the truck is easier to work on.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,345
Likes: 5,941
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Jason is right I dealt with a 100+ PSI rating while changing the seals. Turned out the return line was canted ever so slightly that it created a high pressure situation. I mean, you couldn't see it from any angle and it was like 1/64 off.
Again as Jason said, get it home and sort it out.
Again as Jason said, get it home and sort it out.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2022
Posts: 212
Likes: 44
It should drop quickly once the key is off, at least with stock parts. The original plunger has a small hole through it like Les was saying.
I assume your new plunger does not have a hole? I seem to recall people mentioning this with Amazon parts. Not sure that it would cause any issues though.
My thoughts on your 95 psi at idle:
1- This can happen if the spring isn’t seated correctly in the cap or maybe if the return line is pushed in too far (I think). @Sous has dealt with that before.
2- Did you blow out that return line? Maybe the spring and part of the FPR cap is partially blocking the return.
I don’t remember ever reading about over pressure causing damage, just performance and strain on the pump. I’d drive it home at this point so the truck is easier to work on.
I assume your new plunger does not have a hole? I seem to recall people mentioning this with Amazon parts. Not sure that it would cause any issues though.
My thoughts on your 95 psi at idle:
1- This can happen if the spring isn’t seated correctly in the cap or maybe if the return line is pushed in too far (I think). @Sous has dealt with that before.
2- Did you blow out that return line? Maybe the spring and part of the FPR cap is partially blocking the return.
I don’t remember ever reading about over pressure causing damage, just performance and strain on the pump. I’d drive it home at this point so the truck is easier to work on.
For the pressure being high, i feel like a different spring would be the thing to try. The Dorman came with a blue spring. A lighter spring should reduce pressure. I may just modify the current spring to drop the pressure a bit. The reviews had suggested the pressure can be high with this regulator (there is one review stating the 95 psi).
For the spring that should have been there, im thinking the old fpr was gutted because of the fuel pump that was previously on there. For that housing to break on its own seems unlikely. I did look in the return line and it was empty. That giant pump 100% does have a regulator so the po must have gutted the fpr for that.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,345
Likes: 5,941
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
The fpr plunger does have holes and the pressure does drop.
For the pressure being high, i feel like a different spring would be the thing to try. The Dorman came with a blue spring. A lighter spring should reduce pressure. I may just modify the current spring to drop the pressure a bit. The reviews had suggested the pressure can be high with this regulator (there is one review stating the 95 psi).
For the spring that should have been there, im thinking the old fpr was gutted because of the fuel pump that was previously on there. For that housing to break on its own seems unlikely. I did look in the return line and it was empty. That giant pump 100% does have a regulator so the po must have gutted the fpr for that.
For the pressure being high, i feel like a different spring would be the thing to try. The Dorman came with a blue spring. A lighter spring should reduce pressure. I may just modify the current spring to drop the pressure a bit. The reviews had suggested the pressure can be high with this regulator (there is one review stating the 95 psi).
For the spring that should have been there, im thinking the old fpr was gutted because of the fuel pump that was previously on there. For that housing to break on its own seems unlikely. I did look in the return line and it was empty. That giant pump 100% does have a regulator so the po must have gutted the fpr for that.
I am telling you that I fixed the self inflicted issue of high PSI when resealing the fuel bowl. Super easy fix and I was grateful for that.
Good luck to you.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2022
Posts: 212
Likes: 44
@Hellraiser456 , before you swap parts out and start looking deeper into the issue, please read and check out what I wrote as a brief summary of my "issue" in post #50. As I mentioned, there were no clues to the misalignment. There were no leaks and everything went together very well and optimism was high, until I saw the PSI gauge pegged at 100 PSI.
I am telling you that I fixed the self inflicted issue of high PSI when resealing the fuel bowl. Super easy fix and I was grateful for that.
Good luck to you.
I am telling you that I fixed the self inflicted issue of high PSI when resealing the fuel bowl. Super easy fix and I was grateful for that.
Good luck to you.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2022
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Welp.
The dorman parts were not even good enough to make it home. Figured they would last 15 miles, but nope.
Drain valve leaks. Fpr is stripped at the return line fitting.
Im going to replace this fuel bowl with an oem one. Now i gotta find that.
The dorman parts were not even good enough to make it home. Figured they would last 15 miles, but nope.
Drain valve leaks. Fpr is stripped at the return line fitting.
Im going to replace this fuel bowl with an oem one. Now i gotta find that.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2022
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Likes: 44
How about the napa ones? Its saying its made by NAPA Echlin Diesel. 3 year warranty. Its can be here tomorrow and the price isnt too bad. Alliant is a couple of weeks out.
Riff raff is 7-10 days just for shipping.
Riff raff is 7-10 days just for shipping.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 2,930
Likes: 2,188
From: Langley B.C. Canada
Maybe try looking at a reputable source for these type of parts that have failed.
If the threads in the fuel bowl aren’t stripped I wouldn’t replace the bowl. Just the FPR and the fuel drain valve.
https://dieselorings.com/collections/fuel-bowl-parts
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-...n-parts-99-03/
If the threads in the fuel bowl aren’t stripped I wouldn’t replace the bowl. Just the FPR and the fuel drain valve.
https://dieselorings.com/collections/fuel-bowl-parts
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-...n-parts-99-03/
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2022
Posts: 212
Likes: 44
Maybe try looking at a reputable source for these type of parts that have failed.
If the threads in the fuel bowl aren’t stripped I wouldn’t replace the bowl. Just the FPR and the fuel drain valve.
https://dieselorings.com/collections/fuel-bowl-parts
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-...n-parts-99-03/
If the threads in the fuel bowl aren’t stripped I wouldn’t replace the bowl. Just the FPR and the fuel drain valve.
https://dieselorings.com/collections/fuel-bowl-parts
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-...n-parts-99-03/
It will take 2 weeks to get parts from those places. Good places, but im not in the USA.
There is a somewhat local guy that has a brand new alliant bowl in stock. Its more money, but would get me back to driving. They have a good name locally. Its not amazon, and i can drive to pick it up (about a 3hr drive).
If i order for riffraff, im dead in the water. Ill see what the dealership can get, but im doubting they would have the fpr. I cant find anything else anywhere for the fpr other than riff raff.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 2,930
Likes: 2,188
From: Langley B.C. Canada
I hear you on shipping times. I’m in British Columbia and have experienced the unreasonable shipping times from USPS.
Watched my package head to San Diego from Oregon before coming north. Then there was the taxes, duty, and customs handling fee.
Here’s one from a Canadian company.
https://www.ocdiesel.ca/products/199...0a90794b&_ss=r
Watched my package head to San Diego from Oregon before coming north. Then there was the taxes, duty, and customs handling fee.
Here’s one from a Canadian company.
https://www.ocdiesel.ca/products/199...0a90794b&_ss=r