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Starting a new thread rather than expounding on the rear window latch thread...
This truck sat in the hot Florida sun for 20+ years before I bought it, so the rubber gaskets/seals are 'crispy', and the upper paint surfaces have sunburned clearcoat. I will be replacing ALL of the window seals/gaskets next year when I paint the upper surfaces of my '95 F250 XLT ext cab above the top two-tone tape stripe. Roof, hood, tops of the doors, top of the bed... From that upper tape stripe and down the paint is fine.
The rear sliding window gasket, and front window weatherstrips and all I can find, but those 'quarter-window' gaskets also need to be replaced, and show evidence of leaking/water intrusion.. I can find all of the weatherstrips/seals EXCEPT the ones for the extended cab windows.
It's not a caulk, and not a gasket. I believe it's something called butyl rubber. It maintains it's softness over time, which is nice. You can also use gobs of it to help remove other, smaller pieces when you go to clean up the window and cab surfaces. Wear nitrile, or similar gloves, and just roll/peel it off, then come back with the blob and get the rest. I found expensive versions of this stuff online, but went with a cheaper option I found at HDepot. It's gray instead of black, not that it matters. I wanna say I used two layers to ensure a good seal since it was soft enough to squish out if that was too thick. Don't over tighten the nuts or it will distort the outside. Find a happy medium. I found some of the nuts were loose when I did mine so I applied a little lock tight on the threads to help reduce the chance of them loosening again.
The outer trim/frame has a 'rubbery' feel to it, so I incorrectly assumed that it was a rubber gasket like the rear window and hard as a rock... I'll be replacing the windshield anyway due to a crack right in the front driver's view ahead, so the same windshield sealant will be used to seal the quarter widows... ...AND I'll be installing an inside rear-view mirror (yet to be sourced from the local junkyard)
Pic that better shows the sunburned clearcoat on the upper surfaces gold areas...
Ah, ok. Yeah. For that I'd wash it well and hit it with some Meguiar's Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer. Nothing lasts forever, but this worked well on mine.
Also, it took me a couple of days working with a hawk-beak (linoleum tool) knife to get enough cut into the windshield sealant and then still having to push with my feet to get mine out since I couldn't reach all of the places. The standard windshield removal tools would've taken a week to cut through it. If your's is original, you may have similar trouble. The windshield is structural on these old trucks, so they are in there good. The new caulk isn't supposed to dry like a rock, which will help if there's a next time.
Last edited by seschenburg; Dec 21, 2025 at 12:40 PM.
I had to have my windshield replaced when I got it. Took it to someone who only did auto glass. He said mine was the most stubborn one he’s ever done. Said he had to cover the dash with a blanket and smash it out when a baseball bat to get into the hard places. I only found this out because the next time I went to vacuum the truck out, broken glass was EVERYWHERE. I called and asked him if he decided to only vacuum the visible spots. He told me more would most likely fall out as I drove, he was right.
I believe part of that might have been stress management for him…
I had the windshield replaced of our gifted 2000 marquis when the M-I-L quit driving a few years ago. Only 21k miles on the Marquis in 2022... My fault - I hit the windshield with cold hose water on a hot mid-summer day... Anyway, Safelite has some sort of suction-cup crank-handle apparatus that cuts through 20+yo stuff like butter! Less than 30 minutes total time to replace the windshield! I'll never do it DIY again!
Safelite was supposed to replace mine. They turned me away when I showed up for the appt… I drove 45 minutes each way, real happy that day.. they said since it was the original window, they wouldn’t touch it.
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