In getting the oil pan dip stick tube adapter sealed back up I came upon a problem. The top bolt will not tighten up, which means the aluminum threads have seen better days. The starter is a stock 6.7L unit...with a swapped 7.3L nose cone of course...and I know the aftermarket starters have a thicker flange that the bolts go through. I researched here and couldn't really find anything, so here we go. It appears the stock bolts are M10x1.5, and I think 30mm long. Most go to the 45mm long bolt for the aftermarket units that have a thicker flange. I couldn't see a definitive answer relative to if that top mounting bolt hole bottoms out or goes all the way through on an automatic 4R100. So at this point I'm trying to decide what needs to be done...a longer 45mm? bolt, heli-coil, etc....

 

Yes, M10x1.5. Yes, Helicoil and longer bolt. Get the longer Helicoil that can rethread the entire depth of the adapter plate too. As for bolt length, get one that has a length of thread that sticks out beyond the starter’s flange by about the same as the thickness of the adapter.

 

Is the longer bolt an option...I'd like to be able to put that in there for now then heli-coil it when I have more time and it's a little warmer. It looks like the bottom 2 bolts go through to the outside of the adapter plate, so if the top hole also goes all the way through what's behind it...flex plate...

 

Not sure how big is the 6.7 starter but if possible instead of using bolts why not use studs for ease of future removal/installs

 

It's relatively small...that may indeed be a viable option, but I still would like to know what's behind that top bolt.

 

Hmm, I think that top bolt hole butts up against the transmission’s bellhousing but don’t quote me on that.

 

Okay, so some good news for me. I bought both a M10-1.5x45mm and another only 50mm long cap screw/bolt flange along with a lock washer. These are both longer than the original/stock M10-1.5 bolts, which I believe are 40mm long. I started with the 50mm and it would go in and get tight, but it wasn't snugged up against the starter flange. It wasn't bottomed out as I measured the depth of the hole...which is about 2", or 50mm...I just believe there's some junk down in there that I didn't have time to clean out. I pulled it back out and inserted the 45mm long bolt and it tightened right up. So my plan is to go with a 45mm long bolt, but I will order some 304 stainless steel bolts with a serrated external flange hex head along with some stainless steel lock washers. My thought is the 50mm long bolt will work...it just needs to be blown/cleaned out...but I'm going to save that last bit of 5mm in there in case it's needed again like now.

The only thread I was able to find was an old one where @Sous went through some detail with these starter bolts, but his experience was with the manual ZF6 transmission. Given mines a 4R100 automatic...like many...is why I thought I'd follow up for future reference. The manual version has the bolt holes going all the way through such that you could theoretically put a nut and bolt scenario in there...from what I recall from the pictures on the bottom 2 anyways. The automatic version with the adapter plate...which I believe is 2" thick...bottoms out on all 3 bolt holes.

This is one thing I'm glad Ford did it the way they did as I was looking at a heli-coil situation that I wasn't too excited about given all the other things going on at present...

 

I put together a DIY on another forum for installing the Power Master starter which uses all 3 holes.

IMO studs and nuts would be an absolute PITA especially the top bolt. But I did make threaded starting studs for the bottom two holes which guided the starter perfectly into place and lines it up for the top bolts which is basically done by feel.

The right combination of 1/4” drive ratchet, extension, and socket makes it pretty easy. I can PM you a link if interested. I’ve seen guys coping the link and pasting on other sites.

Glenn

 

I don't know if it's possible, but if I ever need to do this for my truck, it will be converted over to a stud instead of a bolt if I can still get the starter out over that stud. Reason for that is studs hold a lot stronger than bolts in my experience.
It may not be possible due to the engine mount being in the way, but that is what I would do if there's any possibility of that working.

 

Worth a try. Here’s my observation with the Power Master (Not OEM)

The flange of the starter fits into the step / to the shoulder of the adapter (white arrow) so no danger of shear load on the bolts.

You would be fine on the bottom two but if there’s a problem with clearance it will be the top hole (yellow arrow)




Here I slipped the Power Master onto the bottom starting studs (white arrow) with no issues, and your permanent studs would be much shorter.




Here would be your only possible issue with the top hole….clearance (white arrow) between the back of the starter solenoid and the dip stick tube







And of course trying to blindly start a nut as opposed to inserting a bolt into the hole of the adapter until you get a socket on it.


The OEM starter only uses two bolts, I like the fact the the Power Master, as well as some others use all three🙂

If you do get it studded looking forward to an update👍

 

Yeah, that looks like a nice setup.

 

It's very possible with a 6.7L starter as there's plenty of room. If I have to take it to the next level of a 50mm long bolt, then that's what I plan on doing.

 

My Momma dropped me a lot. So if this is wholly stupid please cut me some slack.

Would it be possible to drill out that top bolt hole (or any of them) and install a longer bolt with a split washer and nut on the end?

My OEM starter works fine so I have never looked at it.

 

Read the second paragraph in post #7...