When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2000 F250 - I think I have narrowed down my cold no start issue to injectors. Here are the things I have done which leads me to think this way.
new glow plugs (Motorcraft) and a White Rogers relay
5-40 T6 on the last oil change
New IPR and new ICP (Motorcraft)
New batteries
Added some Hotshot stiction stuff to the oil and it did make a difference...actually started at 51 degrees with no plug in....was ugly though.
This truck runs great when warmed up.....but 50 and under outside and its not starting without being plugged in. If not plugged in, it cranks and eventually blows a little smoke.
I have attached audio clips of it running (cold and warm) at engine and exhaust locations. There is a considerable difference in sound...especially at the exhaust.
What do you guys think? Am I on the right track here? I read the poppet valve .pdf on this site which lead me to think this way
Last edited by uglypitbull; Dec 11, 2025 at 07:55 PM.
My first thought was, Have you tried starting in a different Hydra setting ??
Since you have 160/30's... anything else from me would be worthless... I'm all stock.
.
Going to park my truck out in the cold (16 degrees) Sunday night.... normally without plugging in, it will start within a few seconds.
The board will light up with Cold weather No Starts Monday I'm sure !
Have you checked the GPR to make sure it’s functioning correctly? I know you said it’s new but maybe the PCM ground trigger isn’t working? Might try crossing the large posts for 20 seconds before a start to see if it helps.
I would also check the armature clearances on a couple injectors. I went through this with my truck as it sits outside whereas the wife's Excursion stays in the garage with the water heater right in front of it...though it really doesn't get cold here in south Texas too often. I did all you're saying too and it still had trouble starting once it got into the high 40's unless I plugged it in for about an hour. Once I checked the armature clearances and figured out they could use a little help...bingo, I have been able to now start it in the low 20's...
Edit: I also drilled out a drain in the aluminum injector body to get that oil out of the armature surfaces...
Last edited by bwguardian; Dec 12, 2025 at 09:21 AM.
My first thought was, Have you tried starting in a different Hydra setting ??
Since you have 160/30's... anything else from me would be worthless... I'm all stock.
.
Sorry, this is my 2000 truck...stock injectors with no tuning. The truck with 160/30's fires up instantly.
Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
Have you checked the GPR to make sure it’s functioning correctly? I know you said it’s new but maybe the PCM ground trigger isn’t working? Might try crossing the large posts for 20 seconds before a start to see if it helps.
I have checked the GPR and it has the same voltage on both posts when activated.
Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
What is fuel pressure during the no start?
Not to sound ignorant, but isnt the fuel pressure the same when plugged in and not plugged in? It starts great when warmed up a little. I have done the Hutch/Harpoon mod on this one.
I would also check the armature clearances on a couple injectors. I went through this with my truck as it sits outside whereas the wife's Excursion stays in the garage with the water heater right in front of it...though it really doesn't get cold here in south Texas too often. I did all you're saying too and it still had trouble starting once it got into the high 40's unless I plugged it in for about an hour. Once I checked the armature clearances and figured out they could use a little help...bingo, I have been able to now start it in the low 20's...
Edit: I also drilled out a drain in the aluminum injector body to get that oil out of the armature surfaces...
This is exactly what I suspect is wrong. It was overnight that the truck stopped starting on its own. Its 27 out right now and I have no heated shop so it will continue to have to be plugged in until February when I get these injectors rebuilt. If it was warmer I would get out there and pull valve covers, I regret not doing that in Sept, but I wasn't aware of the issue then either. I saw a video of a guy who drilled out the injector body....is that done when folks rebuild these or was that something he did just to help drain the thick oil?
Not to sound ignorant, but isnt the fuel pressure the same when plugged in and not plugged in? It starts great when warmed up a little. I have done the Hutch/Harpoon mod on this one.
The reason I ask is that your fuel might be gelled up somewhere along the way in the cold.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.