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Broken bolts can easily turn a simple project into an all day task. I've got mig, tig, and welders and know better than to just go yanking on wrenches or get a cheater bar. Easy going is always best and I agree that penetrating oil doesn't do much unless you can move the bolt at least a little. Another trick is to heat the area with a propane or map gas torch. When I deleted the air injection, smog, and egr the bolts connected to the exhuast couldn't be moved at all. A little heat with map gas and they came off easily. There was one bolt inpaticular that held the smog pump on that I thought was definitely going to break. I finally got it to move a hair by tightening it more then spent probably 15 minutes back and forthing it out. This is the stuff most youtube videos never show. 😆
Broken bolts can easily turn a simple project into an all day task. I've got mig, tig, and welders and know better than to just go yanking on wrenches or get a cheater bar. Easy going is always best and I agree that penetrating oil doesn't do much unless you can move the bolt at least a little. Another trick is to heat the area with a propane or map gas torch. When I deleted the air injection, smog, and egr the bolts connected to the exhuast couldn't be moved at all. A little heat with map gas and they came off easily. There was one bolt inpaticular that held the smog pump on that I thought was definitely going to break. I finally got it to move a hair by tightening it more then spent probably 15 minutes back and forthing it out. This is the stuff most youtube videos never show. 😆
also a resistive electric heater doo dad, which i want one, would be helpful at getting hyperlocalized heat and fast too
There was one bolt in particular that held the smog pump on that I thought was definitely going to break. I finally got it to move a hair by tightening it more then spent probably 15 minutes back and forthing it out.
Yup, tightening it first can also help. The trick [which comes with experience] is turning it and knowing that the bolt is turning. If your wrench is turning and your bolt is not, that is a sure sign something will break. I will admit, sometimes things do not break loose. I live in a place where rust is not an issue, but the cheap aluminum castings that Ford uses [ie front covers] corrode so bad that the the only thing you can do is break the casting. The bolt is probably not seized into the block, just the casting.
The only real downside with induction heaters is getting around some pieces. That is where a tig torch can work even better. Anyone that can tig weld, knows the heat is extremely focused. You don't have to melt the material, just get it red hot. You can also use it to heat the area around the bolt to break the hold.
Yup, tightening it first can also help. The trick [which comes with experience] is turning it and knowing that the bolt is turning. If your wrench is turning and your bolt is not, that is a sure sign something will break. I will admit, sometimes things do not break loose. I live in a place where rust is not an issue, but the cheap aluminum castings that Ford uses [ie front covers] corrode so bad that the the only thing you can do is break the casting. The bolt is probably not seized into the block, just the casting.
The only real downside with induction heaters is getting around some pieces. That is where a tig torch can work even better. Anyone that can tig weld, knows the heat is extremely focused. You don't have to melt the material, just get it red hot. You can also use it to heat the area around the bolt to break the hold.
I snapped a starter bolt years ago on my F150. Took me a couple minutes to come to grips with what happened. Over 20 years of wrenching on Mopars in the rustbelt and never had anything like that happen to me before. Took the better part of a day to clean that mess up in a garage with limited tools.
Fortunately, I don't live in the rust belt. Not lucky, just a choice in life. I suspect most rusted parts are just cut away with a torch/plasma cutter, then start again.
I'm in Texas and this truck has zero rust that I've found. The amount of rust allot of the Northern trucks have amazes me.
Back to the original topic I've found a few videos online and some interesting threads on here about folks adding a Ford 303 cam or the Comp cams 35-512? I think and doing a little head work and getting fair results. It seems like the older trucks have a better seat of the pants feel than the new trucks. This might be why the exhuast made this old truck feel different. My 2019 F350 with the 6.2 just feels flat all the time. The computer won't let you tear it up. I'm going to do a compression test this week to get an idea of what kind of shape the engines in.
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