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That engine spec is not built for an EFI build. Even though it would work with whatever EFI you go with.
I would build an EFI spec engine for EFI, not a carburated spec for EFI.
For the amount of money a PimpX is, I'd spend that on a better named brand like Holley.
For the price of a PimpX, you can save 50% and buy MegaSquirt and wire it yourself. Your paying twice as much for their claimed "PlugN'play".
I am an addict.
I've dialed my trans in mechanically. Haven't had to fine tune it yet, no need. Wanting a firmer 2nd gear shift, will be drilling out the 2nd gear calibration plate hole soon. Then I can dial in with the tuner.
They offer the same engine in a complete setup that comes with a FiTech EFI setup. Drop in ready for $7,900. $7,900 is pricey to me but everything is high these days. I'm gonna kick it around awhile. Maybe a cam and heads is the way to go for now. I could probably get 275 hp for a couple grand and still be reliable.
The plug for EGR does not work. I put my EGR back on.
I did an intake, cam and long tube headers, ported stock E7 heads, runs fine with SD, a little bit of a rough idle, easily fixed with IAC plate adjustment kit.
Interesting how does it run over stock power wise? Deleting the air pump and doing the 3" exhuast helped this truck allot. Like I said before it had nearly zero power in 5th gear before the changes. Now it has some power but could use more.
I've dialed my trans in mechanically. Haven't had to fine tune it yet, no need. Wanting a firmer 2nd gear shift, will be drilling out the 2nd gear calibration plate hole soon. Then I can dial in with the tuner.
I had to dial my E4OD back from the upgrades I did. Try finding a new pressure regulator spring that does not raise the pressure. I had to buy a used pump and hope that the stock spring was present [it was]. Having a pressure gauge in the truck helped out a lot. The upgraded spring kept the line pressure no lower than 90psi. Once I got the line pressure back to stock [around 70ish], it was able to shift firm. With electronics, you can always go higher, but you can't make the base pressure lower. Shift timing is so much better too.
If I ran the stock pressures, the shifts are harsh. I guess that is what happens when you put in more clutches, kolene steels, GPz plates, and the updated/firmer springs in the valvebody. If I had no way to tune the EEC-IV ECU, I would have opted for the Quick4. It took a year to finally dial it in.
I have installed two Holley systems and my truck has a megasquirt system. Holley is easier to set up, but you’re paying more for sure. You’re also running and pulling wires.. everything has its ups and downs.
Last edited by 90project5.0; Nov 19, 2025 at 01:23 PM.
I've looked at a few of the different Holley systems and they look easy enought to install. They are also all over marketplace for around 1/2 the price of new. I'm just not sure on all the wiring needed. Wiring a system up is generally fairly easy, making it look professional and not a rats nest waiting to get torn up is the time consuming part. The PiMPx is fairly expensive but if all your doing is replacing the factory ECM that accounts for allot. The Quarterhorse looks like a steal until you add the $500 for the tuning software in. I haven't looked into the Megasquirt yet.
The fact that you can plug the PiMPx ECU into the stock location and fire it up is what makes it plug and play, provided you are staying with batch fire. It won't be truly tuned, of course, but none of them will be. Paying the extra money for the registered version of TunerStudio is well worth the extra money. Look into it if you decide to go that route. I know nothing about the Holley systems, so I can say nothing good nor bad about them.
I disagree. I’m still using the OEM TFI ignition as well as the OEM fuel pumps on my ‘89. I did change to an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and 36# injectors but that was probably too much since 30# injectors would have been enough.
I have a 10.0:1 compression 408 with a custom cam and AFR 185 Renegade 58cc heads. I bought a PiMPxs computer but am running it in batch fire. Here is the rear wheel horsepower
The run was from 2,200 - 4,800 rpm because I asked the tuner for driveability vs all out top end power.
I am also using long tube Pacesetter headers with true dual exhaust.
457 WTQ and 357 WHP on factory pumps? I'm impressed. I really did not want to have to replace my fuel pumps when I build the 300 in my truck. You've got the perfect truck engine.
Interesting how does it run over stock power wise? Deleting the air pump and doing the 3" exhuast helped this truck allot. Like I said before it had nearly zero power in 5th gear before the changes. Now it has some power but could use more.
I find that hard to believe unless the catalytic converter and/or muffler was clogged. A long time ago I put a Gibson 3” cat back system on the ‘87 Bronco (302) and it lost low end power.
Originally Posted by Duke5A
457 WTQ and 357 WHP on factory pumps? I'm impressed. I really did not want to have to replace my fuel pumps when I build the 300 in my truck. You've got the perfect truck engine.
I thought I might have to at least change the high pressure pump but it doesn’t have any trouble keeping up.
[QUOTE=My4Fordtrucks;21704114]I find that hard to believe unless the catalytic converter and/or muffler was clogged. A long time ago I put a Gibson 3” cat back system on the ‘87 Bronco (302) and it lost low end power.
I feel the same. I honestly didn't think I'd notice any difference with the exhuast. When I bought the truck it had new exhuast from the cat back. Looked like 2 1/2" to a glasspack to duals. It never had any go in 5th so I did a good tune-up and that did very little. Next I cut the cat off and still nothing. I didn't like the duals or glasspack so went with 3" to muffler then 3" out and 90* to come out in front of back tire. The entire setup is maybe 4' long from the y pipe collector. This seems to have really helped. It's not great power but a noticable improvement. Planning on shortys next. I hate to even attempt them on this truck because I'll probably break a few bolts so just have to find the time.
The trick to remove seized bolts is not too break the bolt. Once you do, a lot of options are gone.
I rarely ever have luck with penetrating oil if the bolt is seized/rusted. I honestly have never seen penetrating oil 'penetrate'. Sure, if the bolt can be moved, yes, spray the heck out of it and go back and forth to get the stuff inside the threads. Another bad thing about the oil is that it's flammable. If you spray this stuff everywhere and the next step is to bring out the torch, then you might have a bigger issue. If you have access to a tig welder, that is a good way to heat up just the bolt and not the entire area. You don't have to melt the bolt, but you can certainly pin point the place you want the heat to be vs flooding the entire area with heat. Sometimes just removing the head to get the item detached will allow you to use the remaining bolt/stud to help you get it out.
The trick to remove seized bolts is not too break the bolt. Once you do, a lot of options are gone.
I rarely ever have luck with penetrating oil if the bolt is seized/rusted. I honestly have never seen penetrating oil 'penetrate'. Sure, if the bolt can be moved, yes, spray the heck out of it and go back and forth to get the stuff inside the threads. Another bad thing about the oil is that it's flammable. If you spray this stuff everywhere and the next step is to bring out the torch, then you might have a bigger issue. If you have access to a tig welder, that is a good way to heat up just the bolt and not the entire area. You don't have to melt the bolt, but you can certainly pin point the place you want the heat to be vs flooding the entire area with heat. Sometimes just removing the head to get the item detached will allow you to use the remaining bolt/stud to help you get it out.
Good luck.
if you dont mind cracking the area as potential consequence, heat and quench can get the seized threads to shock
But id NOT do that on exhaust flanges because well self explanatory id hope lol
With a tig welder, it's highly unlikely that it will crack. Even with a torch, I have yet to see any cracking unless the crack was already present.
Either way, removing seized bolts and be troublesome, but it's the area that always seems to be the issue with me. The more area I have to work, the easier it is. Without a doubt, the #1 rule is to not break the bolt. It goes down hill from there. The more skilled person knows just how much torque to put into it before it breaks. A bigger wrench is not always a good thing. If it is a nut, just cut the nut off.
With a tig welder, it's highly unlikely that it will crack. Even with a torch, I have yet to see any cracking unless the crack was already present.
Either way, removing seized bolts and be troublesome, but it's the area that always seems to be the issue with me. The more area I have to work, the easier it is. Without a doubt, the #1 rule is to not break the bolt. It goes down hill from there. The more skilled person knows just how much torque to put into it before it breaks. A bigger wrench is not always a good thing. If it is a nut, just cut the nut off.
i was clenching my butt taking caliper bracket bolts off my gmas jeep to do the brakes
E20 torx bolts.
turns out a 1/2 12 point socket (3/8 drive only since i dont usually go for 12 points if i can help it) and a HF ratchet but i succeeeded!
I used deep creep only no heat.
When you mentioned torch/tig did you mean for quenching with water after heat or did you just mean heat
That engine spec is not built for an EFI build. Even though it would work with whatever EFI you go with.
I would build an EFI spec engine for EFI, not a carburated spec for EFI.
For the amount of money a PimpX is, I'd spend that on a better named brand like Holley.
I am an addict
I've dialed my trans in mechanically…Then I can dial it in with the tuner.
I’m far from an addict.
If you can tune the EFI to work with whatever combination you decide then how is that a problem? EFI is a more precise computer controlled carburetor so I’d like to know what you’re thinking/ why it won’t work.
Last edited by My4Fordtrucks; Nov 21, 2025 at 07:06 PM.
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