2016 F-150 SuperCrew 6.5" Bed 3.5L 6cyl Twin-Turbo 110K Miles - Noticing a noise coming primarily from the Front Left Hub when 4W(Auto) or 4WH engaged. (Groaning) Suspect Worn or failing Hub/IWE. However, it doesn't seem to make the sound in Summer/warm months, but certainly more prevalent in cold months. Completely normal in 2WD no matter OAT. Presuming no Vacuum leaks since it's clearly fully disengaged when in 2WD with no noise. When 4W(Auto) or even 4WH is engaged, I have steering binding giving me some assurance that the hubs have engaged. Everything is Original Since Truck was purchased new in 2016. Considering my symptoms, age of vehicle, and milage, and since I am going to be tearing into the hub on at least one side, I always do the same work on Both Sides if any work is done on either. I am considering a good front suspension Tune-Up, but how far do I go? I will also note that I have some abnormal Outer Edge Tire wear. Tire Pressure consistently maintained at 35psi. Have had the Front End Aligned and then subsequently checked a couple more times (because of the tire wear) and they show everything to be in spec.

First, thoughts on my issue? IWE Actuator and/or Hub Bearing Assembly likely culprit?

Second, thoughts on Drive Line & Suspension "Tune-Up" and how far do I go? Noting again, whatever I do on one side, I will do on the other side. Both Driver and Passenger Sides will be done.

If cost is not a factor, what would you recommend?

Wheel Hub and Bearing (Complete Bearing and Actuator Unit)
Outer Tie-Rod Ends?
Inner Tie-Rods?
Upper Control Arms?
CV Axles?
Lower Ball Joints?
Sway Bar Links?
Sway Bar Bushings?
Struts?
Anything Else?

Also, plan is to use OE (FoMoCo) Parts. I have access to these at a pretty good price. But what would you recommend in Aftermarket that is truly better than OE?

 

I suggest to replace the coilover shocks at the same time. Worn shocks can cause uneven tire wear. With that age and mileage, new shocks are good anyway. I would do the coilover springs too instead of just the shocks. For aftermarket shocks, I prefer Fox 2.0 on a half ton truck, though other shocks are good too. Fox 2.0 IFP will come shock and coilover spring already assembled. If you get Fox 2.0 IFP, I suggest make sure you get the coilovers from Eibach... you may have to ask that specific question about which springs are included. The Fox 2.0 IFP with the unbranded Fox springs I got for my GF's truck rusted very badly and failed prematurely (with heavy state road salt). The replacement Fox 2.0s with the Eibach springs still have no signs of rust.

 

Thanks Nitebreeze! So, you don't think my plan is a bit of "overkill" firing a parts cannon at it? haha I didn't believe the tire wear issue to potentially be "Shock" related, as I thought "cupping" would be the symptom if so, but did consider replacement of the front shocks (I may have misspoke calling them struts), although there is no rust at all on the original coil springs and no evidence of any leaking shock. I did replace the rear shocks about a year or two ago with Bilsteins.

 

I didn't interpret all if your repair ideas as all to address the 4wd groan sound. I suggest diagnose good before throwing parts at it. I have twice seen shocks that had started to go bad with no sign of leakage or damage. With that mileage, I would consider the shock replacement due even without signs of worn shocks.

 

Also, I doubt anything is bad with your current coil springs. I am lazy and don't want to deal with taking the shocks to a shop with a spring compressor to change the shocks, so I would just get the springs and shocks already assembled. I thought you were doing this yourself... and compressing shocks DIY is complicated.

 

I have compressed coil springs many times in the past, but if there's not much of a cost difference between just the shock or full coilover, the coilover will certainly be the choice just for convenience. I usually just borrow the spring compressor from AutoZone. I do plan to do all the work myself. None of it is all that complicated IMHO.

 

I've replaced everything in the front, and like stated above, it's a lot easier to to it once and get it over with. The shocks are the hardest part. Once you have it torn down that far, the hubs and IWEs are easy to get at. Might as well do a brake job while you're at it, since you'll be taking those off too. At 70k miles, my IWEs had been causing problems for quite some time, then one finally broke. The passenger side one came apart when I removed it. I'm sure the life span of mine were shortened due to oversize tires.

I went with Eibach Pro Truck coil overs, RCV IWE eliminators, SKF hubs, and AC Delco Gold/Raybestos heavy duty/fleet brakes.

 

Thanks JKBrad! As for the Eibach Pro Truck coil overs, I've observed several others who have highly recommended these and they really liked the powder coated coils for corrosion control on the coils. Did you go with the Pro Truck Coilover 2.0 w/ +0.5-2.3"? How did you adjust them? Keep it at the Stock Pre-load set to recommended height or raise them as a Leveler. (or is your truck already lifted)?

Do you know if the "recommended height" pre-load is set to match OEM height? Or did you adjust it to get the front end "level"? If the latter, did you notice any increased "harsher ride" as their site states?

I run standard sized tires and don't do much if any off-road (occasional snow) but due frequently tow a heavy 24' Boat on a tandem axle trailer. So, not sure I need to (or even wanna) take the IWE out of the system with the eliminators.

Front and Rear Brake Pads and Rotors have all recently (in the past year or two) been replaced with PowerStop Z36 Truck & Tow Brake Upgrade Kit. A noticeable upgrade to the stock brakes/rotors. I didn't replace the calipers at that time as the stock calipers were all in great shape, but should they need replacing, I'll think about replacing with PowerStop Powder Coated Calipers or OEM. I'll certainly take a look at the pads though and replace them if needed or even close to half-life. (I have a new set for the frt and rear standing by in my garage)

 

I have these on my truck, they are more firm than the OEM squishy shocks, but ride and handle great. Also seen in this pic, Rancho upper control arm.

https://eibach.com/product/E86-35-035-01-20?epsid=1988





If you don't want a lift, this is the shock to get. You can adjust perch height, like Bilsteins, from stock to 2", while reusing the OEM coil springs.

https://eibach.com/product/E60-35-037-08-10?epsid=1988

Pic of my truck as it currently sits. 3" over stock, with Raptor take off wheels/tires.

 

Very Nice! Thanks Again!!