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Best Torque Pro gauges

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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 02:55 PM
  #1  
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Best Torque Pro gauges

Just bought a 2004 6.0 L Diesel. I bought the Torque Pro app and want to use it to find out what if anything is wrong with the engine. It has 46K miles on it.
The biggest symptom is that it often starts with a lope, then it will go to a normal idle, but in about 60 seconds it goes to a high idle about 1200 RPM. Outside air temp is in the 60s Fahrenheit.
What I need to know since this engine is new to me is what metrics should I be looking for in a "normally running" engine. In other words, what gauges should I display in Torque Pro and what should each of them read if everything is normal?
No doubt someone on these forums has already answered this question, but I don't know how to find it, so if anyone could direct me to the answer it would be really appreciated.
I have figured out how to install Torque Pro and have live readings, just need to know which ones might be contributing to these symptoms. The sudden idle really concerns me.
Oh, BTW, since this is a new engine to me, should I be hearing a turbo whistle? I don't hear it at all, so maybe it isn't working, but maybe Torque Pro can help me with that too!
Again, thanks much.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 07:37 AM
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I replied to your other post but will reply here as well. The engine going into high idle to warm up is normal. 1200 RPM is a bit high though and for my truck that’s the PTO rpm setting. Maybe there’s a tune on it that kicks it to 1200 given the long idles of fire apparatus. You should hear a little turbo whistle at 1200, though it’s muffled greatly by the cat and muffler as well as the stock air cleaner assy. I use Edge not Torque pro, but I monitor ECT, EOT, IAT, IPR%, ICP, VGT, Turbo psi, EGT, and fuel pressure psi with a glow shift stand alone sensor.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Baylinerchuck
but I monitor ECT, EOT, IAT, IPR%, ICP, VGT, Turbo psi, EGT, and fuel pressure psi with a glow shift stand alone sensor.
Thank you sir. If I put those in my app, what would those numbers look like if they are normal? I can monitor them, but don't have any idea what "normal" should be.
ECT=??
EOT=??
IAT=??
IAT2=??
IPR%=??
ICP=??
Turbo PSI=??
EGT=??

 
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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 09:14 AM
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This is posted around here. .... somewhere.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 11:13 AM
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Excellent sir! This is a good starting point for me. So far, once my engine has stabilized, everything seems to be in range. But it still concerns me about why the engine "lopes" for a few seconds after start, settles down to normal idle for about 45 seconds, and then goes to high idle (1200 RPM) until the engine is completely warmed up. It does the high idle thing even when outside air temps are in the 60s, so it isn't about cold temps.
Actually, it is a safety issue, because if I put it in drive before it goes to high idle and am not pressing the brake pedal hard enough, it will overcome the brakes and move ahead. If I was in traffic it could push me into the cars ahead of me.
Doesn't anyone else have these concerns?
 
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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 11:59 AM
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Loping can be a complex issue. When I bought the truck new from the dealer, it did that until I used the Ford software to go through a self-test. A decade or so later, it happened again until I replaced the EGR valve.

Even at 60ºƒ ambient, it will go into high idle. A normal pressing on the brake pedal shuts them down. I'd check the brake light switch and its operation, as the PCM might not be getting the signal at normal travel.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 04:49 PM
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I wonder if it's got an 03' motor with the original strategy, with that low of miles?
 
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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 11:49 PM
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1200 still is way too high of a warm up idle IMO. Maybe the strategy is a bit different for an ‘05 in this regard. Today with temps in the low 50’s to 60 my high idle was 900. When the engine is really cold it bumps to 1050. It only bumps up to 1200 with the PTO mod switch. The high idle should drop to normal idle by pressing the brake and/or clutch pedal.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2025 | 06:19 AM
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Agree with that. The other day when I was playing I was at 850, down to 625 when I hit the brake with my '03.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2025 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
Loping can be a complex issue. When I bought the truck new from the dealer, it did that until I used the Ford software to go through a self-test. A decade or so later, it happened again until I replaced the EGR valve.

Even at 60ºƒ ambient, it will go into high idle. A normal pressing on the brake pedal shuts them down. I'd check the brake light switch and its operation, as the PCM might not be getting the signal at normal travel.

My 2005 has not loped since I bought it a few years ago. However, my 1999 7.3L would occasionally lope when it was cold outside. Once I switched to 5w-40 full synthetic the loping went away. I have not seen many loping posts for the 6.0's, and based on TooManyToys comment, it seems likely to be more difficult to fix than just changing to synthetic. But, if all else fails, it might be worth trying.

I think my high idle is around 950-1000 rpm.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2025 | 05:47 PM
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One of the oil additives for the injectors may help.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2025 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Baylinerchuck
1200 still is way too high of a warm up idle IMO. Maybe the strategy is a bit different for an ‘05 in this regard. Today with temps in the low 50’s to 60 my high idle was 900. When the engine is really cold it bumps to 1050. It only bumps up to 1200 with the PTO mod switch. The high idle should drop to normal idle by pressing the brake and/or clutch pedal.
This engine only has 46K miles on it and AFAIK, 5w-40 synthetic has been in it all along. So I don't thin kit is that.
But do you or anyone know where to look to see if someone has maybe permanently wired in a PTO takeoff? I haven't looked under the dash yet, but what would I look for if that was done?
 
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Old Nov 5, 2025 | 08:22 PM
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Look up "High Idle Mod". If I remember correctly, the wiring may be year-dependent.


 
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