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Well, I have returned from the past. To update any that remember my sorry ****, I was fighting a 1989 and a 1990 with issues. I finally got rid of both. I have since moved to the Oregon coast with my 2006 E150. I believe the salt air is wreaking havoc with my van. It has 93K original miles at this point A list of issues;
- My dash brake light is stuck on. (About 3 months now). I think I need to do an instrument panel pull?)
- My key fobs operation has stopped. (Changed batteries, tried 3 different fobs while doing the 8 times ignition key movement with no key fob action).
- On my last trip to CA the known vacuum defect for the AC/blower unit cropped up.
It's been raining all morning so I'm researching the keyless entry issue. I cycle the ignition 8 times, the door locks activate, I press the key fob button and just hear a mini 'bung' noise coming from the fuse panel area. I checked #2 fuse with a continuity checker and its fine.
I didn't see info of these issues tagged. I am most concerned with the door lock/unlock issue. Thanks for listening to my woes.
For the brake indicator circuit, both the brake level switch and the parking brake switch should be open in the normal condition (level OK, parking brake released) so you should be able to unplug them to create the normal condition for testing. There are separate inputs to the cluster for each. The switches are supplied by "VREF" (which could be 12 Volts, 5 Volts or something else) and each switch closes its VREF to ground in the abnormal condition.
For the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) also check fuse #10. I don't think that's a problem but fuse 2 is only hot in START or RUN which says to me it can't be the only feed to the RKE system. Fuse 10 is always hot.
The door locks are handled by the Vehicle Security Module (VSM) which is located in the passenger side kick panel. That makes it seem weird that you hear the "bung" from the fuse box. The door lock functionality wasn't moved to the Smart Junction Box (part of the fuse box) until 2009.
Sounds like to me you just need a new remote that works
I would check the grounds in both kick panels especially due to the salty air near the coast
Code test and pinpoint tests are your friend
I am impressed with the knowledge here. I have to admit I stumbled upon one of my own old posts from a few years ago where I was asking about the identical problem. I was told to disconnect the battery for 10 minutes which I did. I tried the fob and it worked instantly. No reprogramming necessary. I had a bunch of other projects today so will have to put off the brake light issue (again). I will program my new fob tomorrow.
I'm 71 and completely refurbing a house I bought that is a disaster. Foundation, electrical, plumbing and garage roof leaks keep me busy. Living and working on it solo. Then all the day to day stuff cooking and cleaning.
Too much info probably but there it is. Thanks for the replies. I will have the info on hand when I get back on the van.
Last edited by VannerDude; Nov 2, 2025 at 09:50 PM.
Sure, worth a try and might just work
Good on you for fixing up the house
By yourself it is difficult? The wife is not around to help?
65 and doing the same, we bought a house that might be too much for us
Perfect house, it just needs a few things to make it ours
We now have chickens and show sheep / cows for neighbors
Worried about our cat eating the neighbors chickens
Got 3 new fobs last year, 2 for my 97 truck and 1 for my 94 van
1 out of 3 worked
I believe they were new, made in China remotes that did not work
VannerDude, where on the Oregon coast are you? I've lived in Toledo (near Newport) and in Coos Bay.
I went round and round on my Remote Keyless Entry and ultimately on my '98 I pulled the RKE module from the driver side behind the driver, luckily these '98's are snap fit like the old Monogram model cars. I pulled the circuit board and saw immediately that one of the relays was partially melted, so I purchased some relays online, and after testing the capacitors I got some of equal value there too. Desoldering/Soldering the new parts and the RKE was working again.....
For about three months, I found two of the four capacitors had failed. I sawed one open with a Dremel wheel and I was blown away. There was a smaller capacitor residing INSIDE the can of what I thought was a genuine article. Sneaky Chinese no doubt. I'm eventually going to revisit this and I'll get my components from Digikey or Mouser this time.
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