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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 11:53 AM
  #16  
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Same way with me. I do know the times where we were not, my wife did not complain about anything. She figured we were just plugged in. That was the goal. Even the microwave does not even lose time. So far, I've gone 4 days and was at 60%. I figured I could go a week. Obviously with no A/C. I suspect I could run the A/C for about 5-6 hours, but I don't think there would be a time where I would do that.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2025 | 01:55 PM
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Our Microwave and AC are not connected to the inverter so I need shore power for those. I run our generator if those are needed. The batteries only run the fridges and a couple extra outlets (TV/Sat/etc.) when we are not plugged in....
 
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Old Nov 8, 2025 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by S-squatch
Victron orian xs 12/12 50. Mount it preferably near your battery, but you'll need to intercept the charge wire off your 7 pin. In the victron app limit the incoming current to 10 or so amps. Depending on your truck, I went on the safe side at 10a. Spend the money on the xs so in the future if you want more charging you can wire from you truck battery through an Anderson and charge up to 50a.
Unless I'm running air conditioning off the batteries 10a has been plenty in my experience. I personally wouldn't even attempt more than 20a on the 7 pin.

Getting ready to have a DC to DC charger installed. If I understand this correctly, I can intercept the 7 pin charge wire using the Victron App?

Thank in advance.



 
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Old Nov 8, 2025 | 03:02 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Patriot1
Getting ready to have a DC to DC charger installed. If I understand this correctly, I can intercept the 7 pin charge wire using the Victron App?

Thank in advance.
You will have find the 7 pin charging wire and connect it to the charger no app involved. To keep it simple just get a 20 charger. Using a 20 amp charger ( the max I would use) I keep our batteries fully charged even running a residential frig, dorm frig and freezer. I found my charging wire at my disconnect switch mounted next to the batteries.

Denny
 
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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 09:34 AM
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Can you suck that much power from a tiny wire that is in the 7 pin? Especially when it starts all the way from the front of the truck?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 10:19 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 1Butcher
Can you suck that much power from a tiny wire that is in the 7 pin? Especially when it starts all the way from the front of the truck?
The simple answer is yes because the wire from the back to the front is 10 gauge and on our trailer it's 10 gauge from the front fuse block to the house battery, the weak point is the cord from the 7 pin to the trailer that is 12 gauge that will handle the 20 amp. The beauty of the DC to DC charger is it will compensate for voltage drop from the front of the truck to the charger and give you a constant output voltage. I've been running it for a couple of years on long trips and have had no problems and the batteries are always fully or close to full charge even after dry camping for the night with the residential frig and freezer running all night. The last 1K miles of our present trip I even added a dorm frig without any problems.

Denny
 
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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 10:26 AM
  #22  
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You are forgetting about the length. I don't know, but I can see that wire being 20-30 feet [from the alternator to the trailer battery]. I am just pointing out something that I don't think that is being looked at. Just an opinion. Maybe you have. I know, there is no way I would have that small of a gauge at that length. E

The DC/DC charger just does not magically make more voltage without sucking more current.

https://www.cerrowire.com/products/r...pacity-charts/
 
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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 10:34 AM
  #23  
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The charger limits the current draw so the max is 20 amp on mine. I would never go over 20 amp on stock wiring.

Denny
I will add I replaced the wimpy cord end on my 7 pin cord with a replacement that has larger contact area.
 

Last edited by rvpuller; Nov 9, 2025 at 11:00 AM.
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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 11:00 AM
  #24  
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Yes, it will only deliver 20A, but how much will it suck to make that 20A?

If you understand how electricity works, on long runs, there is a voltage drop. With more current, there is more of a drop. If you loose 1V from the alternator to the DC/DC converter, how do you think the converter makes the voltage go up AND provide 20A? It has to draw more current. A voltage drop test is very simple and if you system is indeed up and running, you should test the circuit out. Under full load conditions. If there is no current draw, there would be no voltage drop.

Don't get made at me, it's just how electricity works. That is why the longer the circuit, the larger the gauge to keep the voltage drop lower.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 11:08 AM
  #25  
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It is limited to draw only 20 amps from the truck. I know what voltage drop is being a retired master electrician I worked with it daily.
Denny
 
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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 11:24 AM
  #26  
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Then you should understand that the limit is somewhere. The chargers are rated at output, not input. If you got 20A output, there is an efficiency loss, so it has to take more than 20A to make that happen. Then you look at the drop in voltage, which makes the draw even more.

As a retired electrician [I'm just a dumb auto mechanic for 40+ years] you would know that if the input voltage is 12v and the output voltage is 14v, something happens to the current. If you are sucking on a straw to get the most out of your Big Gulp, if the straw is 40 feet long, you are not going to suck that much, certainly less than a 10 inch straw of the same diameter.

 

Last edited by 1Butcher; Nov 9, 2025 at 11:27 AM.
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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 11:39 AM
  #27  
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The current is limited on the input so it won't overload the input wiring.
I wasn't sold on it when I first bought it but after checking all the voltage drops to the charger I was surprised when the output charging voltage was 13.6 with input voltage at 10.9 under load, truck was at idle.

Denny
 
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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 11:47 AM
  #28  
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That is what they do. It's a great idea. There are a systems in cars that do the same thing. Mercedes made a few models with a brake by wire system. It would have a backup battery that was designed to always give system voltage to the brake controller, no matter how low the main battery was. You don't want the brake system to stop working because of low voltage.

I certainly can see that there are safety measures on the input side as well as the output. Victron makes some high quality stuff. Too rich for my blood.

So what was the current when the input voltage was at 10.9v?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 12:18 PM
  #29  
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Mine is a Renogy charger that doesn't have bluetooth so I can't monitor input or output current, I just do it the old fashion way with a voltmeter and fuses to protect from over current. My 2000 watt inverter was bluetooth so I could monitor the voltage going down the road but that part of it died so I use the volt meter inside the trailer when we stop. I been using it long enough I don't really pay that much attention to it anymore.

Denny
 
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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 07:32 PM
  #30  
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What is the term used on the internet? Friends don't let friends buy Renogy.

I have a Renogy 3k inverter. My first one was a dud. It took weeks to get this warrantied. I was going camping too. I ended up buying a new Renogy 3k inverter and sending my bad one back for the return. It was the only way I could get one back in time to go camping. Their warranty system seems to revolve around asking you to do a bunch of work, make videos, etc before they even think that their product is bad. Sadly, I'm not their employee. I get that many don't know that much about electronics, but it is pretty basic. I had 4 0 cables that were less than 2 feet from the 600ah batteries, fused too. No AC out. How hard can it be?

So, because of their warranty policy, I will not ever buy their product again.
 
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