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Bad Turbo? EBP Sensor? Something Else? Need Help

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Old Oct 20, 2025 | 03:32 PM
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Bad Turbo? EBP Sensor? Something Else? Need Help

Hi I need help with my 2005 F350 6.0 Powerstroke. I have only had this truck for a few months. I performed all recommended maintenance after purchase. I also added the blue spring kit, a coolant filter and thoroughly flushed the coolant systems and replaced with ELC. The EGR cooler had been deleted by a previous owner and it appears so was the muffler, looks like a straight exhaust all the way back, approx 120K miles, as far as I know everything else is factory.

Problem: Every once in a while I hear a screeching from under the hood, I assume it is the turbo, either slightly letting off the the throttle or applying more throttle generally reduces the sound.

Situation: When returning this week everything seemed well, the noise came and went as usual, may have been more frequent, not really sure. We pulled into a rest stop, and when we pulled out, I didn't hear the noise at all, we traveled down the interstate for 30 or so miles with rolling hills and some moderate grades, still no screech. I told my wife, do you hear that? it's quiet, she replied, yes your right nice and quiet. Well another 10 miles or so down the road the truck jerked and the cruise control disengaged. We were loosing power and so I pulled off to the side of the road and then the engine stalled. I got out and checked everything visually, I see nothing wrong. We then started the truck and it ran well for another 30 or so miles before repeating this. Of course I suspect the turbo however I also noticed that the EBP on the scangage II is 12-14 at idle, the same with the engine off. The EBP also rises to 30 - 45 psi while driving.

Additional symptom, may or may not be related. We occasionally notice exhaust fume smell in the cab when the heater is on, not always but sometimes noticeable.

When I plug and unplug the VGT connector the exhaust sound changes from a rumble to the regular hiss. Forscan reports P0299 Turbocharger underboost and P2263 Turbocharger Boost System Performance.

Can my exhaust system be plugged without a muffler? Can the turbo cause the EBP issue? Do I have a EBP issue, turbo charger issue, both or something else?

I am at a loss, looking for all good tips and hints before I tear this down.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2025 | 03:41 PM
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It sounds like you have an up pipe leak considering the exhaust smell. Cracked up pipe can make a terrible screeching noise. Look for soot on the firewall and around the rear of the engine. Can cause low boost if it's bad enough too.

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Old Oct 21, 2025 | 08:22 AM
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I agree with Dan. Check the exhaust bellows, look for black spot on the firewall behind the engine. Check your charge boots for cracks, leaks. Check your EBP tube to ensure it’s clear. Check your MAP sensor tube to ensure it’s clear. Post what you’ve done on the 6.0 section of the forum for help by some knowledgeable folks. See ya over there.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2025 | 08:27 AM
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Thank you, I had the wife start the truck and power brake it when I looked under the hood, although I can not pinpoint the location the drivers side of the engine compartment quickly filled with exhaust. I will pull the turbo and the up pipes.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2025 | 06:56 PM
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Uppipes are often evident at first crank, once it fires you hear an ever so slight whistle then it stops. If you're smelling exhaust in the cab, that would be your source. EGR cooler present or not, you can't beat the BD Diesel up pipe. They're overbuilt and in the time they've been released, I've never heard anyone say that leaked or the bellows broke. They flow better too and while they take some adjusting to properly install, they're the best.

It never hurts but check and clean the EBPS, EBPS tube, and fitting at the exhaust manifold. Depending on the pcm strategy, it may be depending on it more heavily for the VGT. The latest strategy uses it as a point of reference but relies more on the MAP, MAF, and EGR valve for the VGT if memory serves. I'd also clean the MAP nipple on the passenger side of the intake manifold, you just need a pair of needle nosed pliers and a coat hanger to clear the hose. It gets plugged with soot over time and affects turbo performance.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2025 | 08:26 PM
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Thanks for the tips - Any idea how to get the rear bolt for the turbo out, I can't seem to find a way to reach it and still have the ability to turn it.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2025 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by NVCyberPro
Thanks for the tips - Any idea how to get the rear bolt for the turbo out, I can't seem to find a way to reach it and still have the ability to turn it.
You have to use a shallow 10 mm six-point socket and a 6 inch extension. Either that or a deep 10 mm six point socket and a 3 inch extension. That's how I get them off.

Btw, when you reinstall the turbo, don't forget loctite 243 on the mounting bolts.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2025 | 07:06 AM
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Thanks! I’ll give this a try tonight after work if I can, but I’m starting to think I might be approaching this the wrong way. I’ve read a lot of posts in different places, and most say to access this bolt from the left (driver’s) side. How do you do that? When I’m on the driver’s side, I can’t even see the bolt, and there’s zero clearance above the turbo for a ratchet.

On the passenger side, I can look down low and see the bolt. I’ve sprayed it with PB Blaster and let it sit, but I still couldn’t get a ratchet above the turbo with an extension. I’ll double-check that I have the correct socket length and extension.

Thanks again!
 
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Old Oct 22, 2025 | 03:35 PM
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Okay well I definitely found a problem! Also a thanks for all who assisted and helped figure out how to get the back bolt off the turbo, yes I was laid flat over the front of the tuck but it worked!!

The bellow on the Y pipe is totally separated.
Broken up Pipe
Broken up Pipe

I am still at a loss, and have a question no one has answered on: Would this make the truck stall and not start for ~5 minutes?

Also I have new questions:

1) There is a blue hose, not sure if you can see it, but looks stressed to hose clamps being tight, I would like to replace this if possible, it this a special hose? what is it called?
2) Near the hose there is sometype of plate or device that is oil covered? What is this, how do I fix that?
3) This is a 2005 - I heard that I should change the STC connector, not sure what it is but it is supposed to be on the HPOP, can I tell if it has already been changed? and if not should I change that while the turbo is off as well?
4) Last question - I am not sure if the Turbo is bad or has an issue, there is oil in the housing etc. I have a new not reman Garret Turbo on it's way, do I use the old Turbo and send the new one back or go with it? The truck has an unknown but hard history, picked up from used car dealer, they picked it up from an auction and CARFAX shows it was auctioned after a total loss supposedly from hail damaged but that make zero sense to me.

Thank again




 
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Old Oct 22, 2025 | 03:36 PM
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Old Oct 22, 2025 | 10:26 PM
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Looks like your oil cooler needs to be resealed. That blue hose is the oil cooler to EGR cooler coolant hose. People use those and they don't grab on to either end well as both ends are two different sizes.

You'll need a Motorcraft oil cooler seal kit. You'll want to backflush the cooler while it's out.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2025 | 05:01 AM
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3. The STC (snap to connect) fitting is on the back of the HPOP. The update is a one piece fitting and comes with an alignment aid. They have been known to leak and under high pressure come apart. Not a great picture but hopefully you get the idea.



4. Some oil inside the turbo housing is normal. Some of that will be from the CV tube being fed into the turbo inlet. Also check the turbo wheel for any play.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2025 | 07:11 AM
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The turbo wheel does have some side-to-side and up-and-down play, but I don’t have a way to measure it precisely.

Since this project is growing, here’s what I’m planning so far:
  • Replace the up-pipes
  • Check and/or replace the STC fitting
  • Replace the EGR coolant hose
  • Repair or replace the oil cooler, which means pulling the intake manifold
While I’m in there, Anything else you’d recommend tackling at the same time?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2025 | 08:52 PM
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If it’s me I’d delete the EGR cooler or at least replace it with the BPD model. The stock cooler can rupture. Spend some time cleaning the intake. It will be pretty caked up from the EGR.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2025 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Baylinerchuck
If it’s me I’d delete the EGR cooler or at least replace it with the BPD model. The stock cooler can rupture. Spend some time cleaning the intake. It will be pretty caked up from the EGR.
This^^^

If you use an egr cooler, it'll serve two benefits:

1. It will keep the up pipe from cracking easily in the future.

2. You'll use the blue Motorcraft oil cooler to EGR cooler hose that doesn't leak like the blue hose in your picture.

The Bulletproof Diesel EGR coolers are solid and don't rupture as easily as the factory ones do. Yours being a 2005, make sure you don't have that pesky scoop in the up pipe for the EGR cooler.
 
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