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So - I suspect my 1990 F250 Fuel Tank Switch is playing up, and I want to replace it to eliminate a possible cause of my issue.
Problem is - I believe this FOTD-9A050-AA is the correct part number and is NLA.
DS2476 is listed as the correct Switch for a 90-91 F250 but this is incorrect - the lug on my trucks wiring block is in the bottom corner and on this switch the lug would need to be in the center of the long edge, i suspect mid 1990 they changed the design?
The Pigtail is also NLA so I cant cut in and fix that way, does anyone know a fix?
I think i am going to have to grind off the lug on my wiring block?
Last edited by Aedhasdad; Oct 15, 2025 at 10:14 AM.
I've got several of these switches and one is an E7 part number. The lug is still in the center. However, I notice on the later (92-96) switches, the lug on that side is on the bottom as you describe. Did someone put a 92-96 switch on yours and therefore change the wiring plug to fit? Can I see the front of both switches?
I suspect my 1990 is supposed to use the NLA switch with the lug at the bottom (currently fitted)
what I’m saying is the switch suggestion ($50 switch) is wrong for a 86-91 truck so clearly in mid 90 they changed the design in some/all versions?
did a supplier cease to exist mid run and they swapped to the center lug design early?
the other suggestion - the shape of the mounting plate and arms are wrong so that’s worse ($16 switch)
What are your symptoms? Are the tanks cross feeding? Are the gauges acting flakey, all of the above? My '89 started acting up about 10 years ago, tanks cross feeding each other and the gauges went nuts... it turned out to be the fuel selector valve on the frame rail. I'm pretty sure the OEM part number is F1UZ9B263B, if you do a web search it should pop up on a retailer's site. If that's indeed the problem. At the time those cost about $450.00 (!) but I've noticed they've come way down on price.
I solved my issues by yanking those two goofy side rail tanks out and putting in a single 33 gallon tank for a '89 Bronco. Took a tiny bit of fab work (very simple) but it's almost plug and play, the only problem with that avenue is you lose your spare tire storage.
What are your symptoms? Are the tanks cross feeding? Are the gauges acting flakey, all of the above? My '89 started acting up about 10 years ago, tanks cross feeding each other and the gauges went nuts... it turned out to be the fuel selector valve on the frame rail. I'm pretty sure the OEM part number is F1UZ9B263B, if you do a web search it should pop up on a retailer's site. If that's indeed the problem. At the time those cost about $450.00 (!) but I've noticed they've come way down on price.
I solved my issues by yanking those two goofy side rail tanks out and putting in a single 33 gallon tank for a '89 Bronco. Took a tiny bit of fab work (very simple) but it's almost plug and play, the only problem with that avenue is you lose your spare tire storage.
So what's it doing/not doing?
Thank you,
few issues - front tank fuel gauge was off the chart, rear tank - dead, when I switch the engine dies.
replaces the sender on the front tank - works fine now
replaced the whole pump/sender on the rear tank, same issue.
so I am leaning towards the switch has failed?
truck was sat in a field for a few years - goats were using it as a climbing frame.
OK, I think I misunderstood your problem. Let me restate:
I have a switch with the F0TB part number and the lug on the lower right when viewed from the back.
I also have a switch with the E7TB number with the lug in the center.
So you are correct that the design changed.
Because of the wording, I am still no clear on which SWITCH you need? Lug on lower right? Or lug in the center?
My Bad, I will tinker with the OP.
I need the Switch with the Lug in the corner, but I cant find one that fits the hole in the dash panel - the newer switch (Dorman 901-301) with the lug in the correct place has a bezel built into the switch face and the mounting arms are in the wrong place. The Design seems to suggest it slots into the dash then is screwed in to retain it given the shape of the front and the channels present in the plastic.
The 90-91 switch with the lug in the center (photo in the OP) is I suspect, my best bet but to fit, i will need to grind off the lug on the wiring harness.
Also - the newer switch (Dorman 901-301) is $16 and the DS2476 above is $50 - like WTF?
Last edited by Aedhasdad; Oct 15, 2025 at 10:23 AM.
Looks like you're on the right track... If it were the fuel selector valve on the frame it would be cross feeding and it doesn't sound like that's happening.
If you have a Pick-n-Pull in your area it might be worth a trip to snag another switch if you can't find one retail.
Looks like you're on the right track... If it were the fuel selector valve on the frame it would be cross feeding and it doesn't sound like that's happening.
If you have a Pick-n-Pull in your area it might be worth a trip to snag another switch if you can't find one retail.
found one on Amazon, waiting for a refund to finish processing then I’ll order another, worry with pull-a-part is I’m swapping a potentially faulty switch for a potential time bomb.
Looks like you're on the right track... If it were the fuel selector valve on the frame it would be cross feeding and it doesn't sound like that's happening.
His truck is a 1990 so it is ITR and does not have a fuel selector valve on the frame.
His truck is a 1990 so it is ITR and does not have a fuel selector valve on the frame.
ITR?
Figured it out - In Tank Reservoir - 1 complete pump in each tank.... so that means the issue is either the pump (Brand new and I bench Tested it), the switch - pending replacement or a broken wire between the Cab and the Pump?
Last edited by Aedhasdad; Oct 16, 2025 at 09:21 AM.
Ohm out the switch. With the switch in one position, check the continuity between the pins. Without looking at a diagram, I'd imagine this is a simple DPDT switch, so the middle contact on each side would be the common and would connect either to the top pins or the bottom pins. If you have some alligator clips, clip them on to you probes and to the pins, and wiggle the switch around a bit to see if it is getting a loose connection.
Finding a good fuel pump for these trucks is pretty hard these days. I've not heard anyone say a brand that is for sure good all the time except Motorcraft and you cannot get those anymore.
Ohm out the switch. With the switch in one position, check the continuity between the pins. Without looking at a diagram, I'd imagine this is a simple DPDT switch, so the middle contact on each side would be the common and would connect either to the top pins or the bottom pins. If you have some alligator clips, clip them on to you probes and to the pins, and wiggle the switch around a bit to see if it is getting a loose connection.
Used the continuity setting on my multimeter, and i do get a beep in all 4 positions (left pair w switch up, right side pair with switch up, left pair switch down etc.) but i read that the switch can still be "bad" despite passing the continuity test.
Last test once i swap the switch it hunt the wires down which is a PITA.
I might make a simple lamp circuit and try that 1st, because the power to the pump is momenterily when ignition is on, and easier to tell than listening for a pump hum for less than 1 second (with dogs, cars, jets flying overhead etc as background noise)
Last edited by Aedhasdad; Oct 17, 2025 at 01:09 PM.
Went to fetch my new eye glasses from the opticians, i used $45 of gas to do a 15 mile round trip, seems gas is being pushed to the motor and the rear tank, overfilling the rear tank and flowing all over Indian School Road.....
Got home, raised the truck bed and sure enough, gas is oozing out the rear tank, its brimmed. Incidentally, on the new rear fuel pump the instructions mention a thick black wire and a thin black wire - and on my actual they were both thin, one with a white stripe, after weeks of trying to reach the manufacturer, I got told to reverse the 2 black wires, so whilst i was trouble shooting i did that.
Truck will start with some effort now on the rear tank but will run rough and die after a few seconds - could be bad gas, could be something else - so small victory - seems the switch is fine.
I cannot find the fuel selector valve you guys mention - the fuel delivery lines become 2 not 4 and 1 goes through inline fuel filter, follow the chassis rail and then both disapear into the motor bay. (new problem - the hood release just snapped today - cant open the hood).
So in summary:
Switch works
both pumps work
front tank is sending gas to the rear (without an obvious fuel selector valve)
rear tank causes poor running and cut out of motor.
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