Replace ICVR or Not?
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7th Gear
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 7
Likes: 1
From: South Central Colorado
Replace ICVR or Not?
1970 F100 long bed, 302/C4, 75,000 miles... My fuel gauge used to kinda work. When either tank was full it would read partially full and drop to empty when about 1/2 full. All other gauges work as they should.
I was recently tinkering behind the gauge cluster and noticed the printed circuit board was starting to delaminate in the area near the gas gauge. With all of the fiddling trying to reconnect the spedo cable I probably delaminated it more so that I now have no movement of the fuel gauge needle. All other gauges still work fine.
I am going to replace the PCB. Curious what experience others have had with fixing issues with their fuel gauge. Since my other gauges are working properly my feeling is that there is no need to replace the ICVR. Am I being foolish in not replacing it as long as I have the instrument cluster out, or if its working fine don't bother?
I was recently tinkering behind the gauge cluster and noticed the printed circuit board was starting to delaminate in the area near the gas gauge. With all of the fiddling trying to reconnect the spedo cable I probably delaminated it more so that I now have no movement of the fuel gauge needle. All other gauges still work fine.
I am going to replace the PCB. Curious what experience others have had with fixing issues with their fuel gauge. Since my other gauges are working properly my feeling is that there is no need to replace the ICVR. Am I being foolish in not replacing it as long as I have the instrument cluster out, or if its working fine don't bother?
Last edited by MtnRanchr; Oct 12, 2025 at 05:18 PM.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,860
Likes: 612
From: Minnesota
That's a slippery slope. It may well be an issue with the PBD and replacing it will fix the gas gauge. You could run a jumper from you cluster plug to the gas gauge and see if it starts working, if not there is more wrong. Sorry I don't have a direct answer for you.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 251
From: North Pole, Alaska
Ground the power lead of the fuel sending unit momentarily. If the gauge pegs over to full, the gauge is good. If not, it is the gauge or the cluster itself. Your other problem is a leaky float on the sending unit. Take it out and shake it. If it has fuel in it, it will slosh around. Or submerge in water and look for bubbles. They are cheap anyway.
And another thing: do you know the complete history of your truck? The odometer does flip over to zero after 99,999.
And another thing: do you know the complete history of your truck? The odometer does flip over to zero after 99,999.
Last edited by RichS2659; Oct 13, 2025 at 03:43 PM.
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7th Gear
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 7
Likes: 1
From: South Central Colorado
Thanks for the testing tips. I'll see what the results say.
As far as the truck's history... it is definitely an original mileage truck. It doesn't have a spot of rust on it and everything is in great shape, paint has the expected 55 year old patina. It was a Nebraska farm truck that I bought 10 years ago. It came out of the crazy collection of almost 1,000 vehicles owned by Rob Van Vleet. He died in 2022 and his wife put everything up for auction that you can still find internet articles about. It was called the Nebraska Truck Hoard. I had no idea until after it was liquidated. Should have bought more from him before he died.
As far as the truck's history... it is definitely an original mileage truck. It doesn't have a spot of rust on it and everything is in great shape, paint has the expected 55 year old patina. It was a Nebraska farm truck that I bought 10 years ago. It came out of the crazy collection of almost 1,000 vehicles owned by Rob Van Vleet. He died in 2022 and his wife put everything up for auction that you can still find internet articles about. It was called the Nebraska Truck Hoard. I had no idea until after it was liquidated. Should have bought more from him before he died.
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