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same truck as my last threads for those who hav read my posts initially
I put in a new electric fuel pump and got it all hooked up and wired now th battery has 12 volts but I am only reading 7 volts in th smaller nodes of my solenoid an no power is getting to my starter wire on my solenoid an the electric fuel pump isn’t working this is as much as I know right now
1975 ford f-150 ranger xlt trailer special V8 390 big block
Uh… Are you running a relay? Good grounds? Good relay? What size wiring? Where’s the trigger wire hooked to? Where’s the fuel pump? How’d you make up your terminations? How’s it attached? Does it ground through the housing?
Pictures?
I’m not sure about relay but I’ll get some pictures
my grounds are clean I made sure off that before I put them in I have the ground of the fuel pump on a piece of metal next to tbh pump an the trigger wire or hot wire is threaded up and around the frame of my engine bay connected to my starter Solenoid the fuel pump is next to my switch I have a dual tank so under about the driver door
alot of the wok on this truck I’ve taught myself and have been working on it since I don’t have anyone to teach me an I super close to getting it running just having issues Fuel tank switch Fuel pump Gray wire is the one running to my pump
Ugh, I took too long. It wiped everything I wrote.
See attached image. Also, use good insulation on stranded wire only. Don’t use house wiring. You can use THWN in a pinch, but XHW (I think) is rated 125*C and will last you.
And it looked like you’ve got rubber line hanging down outside the frame; that’s not great, but definitely unsat for on the road.
Also make sure you’re not pushing high pressure fuel through line that’s not rated for it.
I don’t have relay I have my old pump bypassed the new one connects directly from the switch to the carburetor with the fuel lines the ground is connected to the steel frame next to where it’s mounted the Other one follows the same route as the fuel line but changes once it goes up an goes along the engine bay I may need to go through and make sure all my connections and ground are clean and proper
I’m gonna try a few things and I’ll let you know how it goes
same truck as my last threads for those who hav read my posts initially
I put in a new electric fuel pump and got it all hooked up and wired now th battery has 12 volts but I am only reading 7 volts in th smaller nodes of my solenoid an no power is getting to my starter wire on my solenoid an the electric fuel pump isn’t working this is as much as I know right now
1975 ford f-150 ranger xlt trailer special V8 390 big block
signed Warren
You are attempting to run a fuel pump using the coil positive as a power source.
The resistor wire is dropping the voltage, as it should.
This is a real bad idea. The ignition system wiring needs to just be for the ingition system only.
Use a relay, trigger by the red wire on the DS2 ingition module on the driver's side inner fender... To operate the fuel pump
The "I" output... on the starter solenoid , is only an output when the starter solenoid is engaged. Meaning while the starter is turning over the engine.
I just installed an electric pump here is the diagram I used on mine. (Not mine got from the web) so it's a little different. Did not use a fuse for everything. But you really should instal the oil pressure cut off switch so the pump only runs when you have oil pressure. The one I got kicks on at 2psi. And kicks off when the engine stops or you will fill the crank case with gas..... I am going to install a bypass switch incase that goes bad so I don't get stranded.
Oh yeah resistor wire; pulled mine a few years ago when I put the new motor in.
Also forgot I’m running a different starter arrangement and I’m wired up different. Ha! Worth what you paid for it in that case, sorry.
Please please please, at least put an inline fuse somewhere on the supply. Otherwise we’ll be expecting crispy truck pics after the fire is out. I’m only half kidding. The factory wiring is already a little scary 50 years on; unfused undersized and overloaded connections make it worse.
Here’s a link for Waytek wire supply and some of their resources. Might be helpful even if you just use the table for load ratings and wire size.
