I have a 1992 F250 Diesel with the duel fuel tanks. I went to switch over to the other tank ( push in the switch ) and the mounting hardware from behind the dash cover broke, so now the tank toggle switch is not secure. Is it hard to remove the face cover of the dash so that I can re attach the toggle switch ?

Thanks !

 

Pop out the two silver trim strips that are below the instrument cluster and behind them are screws that hold it on. After those 2 screws, you can just pull it loose from the rest of the clips that hold it on, many times those are gone anyway (like mine). You may also have to remove the kick panel underneath the steering wheel, I am not sure if you have to pull that or not.

 

thanks!

 

Mine’s the same. The back of the bezel has little threaded stalks that the switch is screwed to from behind. My stalks crumbled and yours may be the same.

You can buy a new bezel - kind of expensive to fix a problem like this - or you can rig up new stalks with epoxy and there are videos and posts covering how others did it. Or just drill holes through the bezel and have screw heads showing. I’m leaning toward the epoxy method but haven’t done it yet.

Please post what you end up doing, especially if it’s better/easier than these options.

 

That's exactly what happen to mine.....I made new stalks using hard plastic tubing, cutting them to the correct height using my Dremel tool. I then used J-B Weld and cemented them in the old stalks locations..... that's where I'm at now, I did this yesterday and I want to give it time to cure before I attach the toggle switch.

 

Tubing is a great idea, and I have all that stuff. My Saturday morning is now set. Thank you for the great tip.

 

Used this from Bronco Graveyard on mine. $30 is a bit steep though.




https://shop.broncograveyard.com/199...ctinfo/30363R/

 

Very cool ! I'll have to keep that in mind if the JB Weld doesn't hold up..... Thanks for the info !

 

Vey common issue. Quick and easy utilitarian ‘mod’ is machine screws / nuts, and not worry again. I’ve seen many trucks like this. I did mine like this yrs ago.

While you have it out, you can open the switch up and clean the contacts.

 

That's how they should have come from the factory, right there. With a metal bracket. That said, it takes a good 20-25 years for them to break though haha. They are asking too much, because I recently bought a whole new bezel for the F450 (for other reasons than the switch) for $27 (looks like they're up to $35 now though ebay seller; big-auto-parts) and the switch mount "hopefully" wont break for 20 years.


I've never replaced the bezel in my F250, so that means this is still in there since 2012 and still holding:

have a broken fuel tank selector rocker switch mount? a simple fix.

I didn't expect that to last for 13 years. I just thought I'd buy a couple years before I had to stop being cheap and replace the bezel haha.

 

Well, I pulled my bezel to do the screw mount fix, which does not look bad at all with black machine screws. It had been rattling so I wanted to check the clips anyway. Every clip mount is broken, as is the plastic where the two screws go. At least the clips are all there.

The screw mounted fuel switch is the only solid part of the whole bezel and I recommend it if the rest of your bezel is solid. Ordered a new bezel so the screws won’t be needed when it comes. I’ll also put a magnetic phone holder on the right side to free up a cup holder.

 

C-P also sells that tank-switch bracket... I got my 'repair' bracket from them.

 

The new bezel from Amazon arrived. Spoiler alert - it doesn't fit. It looks to be thermo-formed which explains the low price, and they obviously pulled it before it had cooled because the top was about an inch shy of reaching the lip of the dash. It was also missing the two lower tabs that clip into slots inboard of the AC vents. While thermo formed plastic is usually soft, the three upper clips would not bite to screw onto the too-big tops of the bosses. Went back to my original bezel and ran little sheet metal screws through the clips into what's left of the bosses and they are now solid. The center of the pockets for the two screws under the trim pieces were broken out but still had some lip remaining. Glued a washer from the front (the pockets are two different sizes and you want a washer that's the full diameter of the pocket) and then built up the back with JB Water Weld. It already looked great like the rest of the interior, and now it's solid. I don't mind the two screw heads showing where I drilled for the fuel tank switch, and those are solid also. The only rattle I have left is the bottom passenger side of the dash...

 

Here's how you take care of that one:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11431844

FYI, the bezel from the ebay seller I mentioned above, fit very good for aftermarket. Looked and it says the brand is "CROSSDESIGN".
It looks and fits nearly oem. I think only the most particular folks, wouldn't be happy with it. It's so good, I don't even notice it anymore in there. When I do, I'm like, oh yeah, that looks good, I'm glad I finally got around to replacing that. I rank it overall 90 - 95% or so, as good as oem. It does come with super cheap vents though. You'll want to swap in your oem ones, unless those are broke too, then they're better than broken oem at least haha.
If I think of it, I'll grab a photo and post it here.

 

Thanks! That’s the best approach to the lower dash mount I’ve seen. The only thing better than finally fixing something that’s annoyed me forever is using some of the ~3.7 million leftover fasteners and brackets I’ve kept ‘just in case’.

The bezel I just returned was a PIT66 brand and the vents were cheesy as you said. A lot of reviewers liked it just fine but fixing the old one feels like more of an accomplishment anyway.