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If the injector has only been running for a short time until the hydrolock, there is a high probability that the internal components have not been damaged. For me personally, the risk would be too great in view of the damage that a not 100% functioning injector can cause.
I always replace the injectors and take a very close look at the sleeves in the head.
I always change both filters when installing new injectors and prime the systems (fuel an oil side) before let the engine fire up.
And not to forget, I change the oil + filter BEFORE I change injectors.
i pulled injector 6 the white o ring was completely gone. i think it rolled off when i was putting it in. i inspected the sleeve it was clean. i replaced the o rings on it and put it back in, i removed all the hold downs and sprayed them out with shop air, inspected the rest of the o rings. retorqued to 24 ft lbs. put glow plugs in drivers side now gotta put the pass side back in and try to start her up, ill give another update in an hour or so
no i didnt, heres the update i got everything back together, it will crank like normal for a few seconds at a time before sounding like its locked again. do you think i just didnt get all the fluid out of the cylinder? i dont have anything to suck it out but i did crank it for a good 30 seconds to spray out what would spray out of the glowplug hole
No need to blow out the cylinder when you cranked with glow plugs removed. Once running the small amount of fuel is burned with the first revs.
Pull Ficm relay and crank engine. Is there a "smooth" crank?
No need to blow out the cylinder when you cranked with glow plugs removed. Once running the small amount of fuel is burned with the first revs.
Pull Ficm relay and crank engine. Is there a "smooth" crank?
she fired up, ran rough for a second but now after about 15 minutes of idle shes still running and its smooth, gonna cross my fingers and take it for a test drive when at temp
If you want to do something good for the injectors, do not start the engine with dry injectors (the rough noise you mentioned). Even if you wait a little with the key on until the pump switches off, there is still a lot of air in the system.
If you want, you can build an adapter cable for the fuel pump and connect it to a battery and let it run for a few minutes until the system is completely vented.
The best way to bleed the oil system is to remove the FICM relay or pull the FICM relay fuse. Then the IPR valve closes completely during cranking and most of the oil reaches the injectors. I'm doing this 3-4 times for 30 seconds. However, 100% bleeding of the oil system is only possible while driving.
With “dry” starting attempts, the injectors have already run the first 10000mls without the truck moving.