HYDROLOCK
If the injector has only been running for a short time until the hydrolock, there is a high probability that the internal components have not been damaged. For me personally, the risk would be too great in view of the damage that a not 100% functioning injector can cause.
I always replace the injectors and take a very close look at the sleeves in the head.
I always change both filters when installing new injectors and prime the systems (fuel an oil side) before let the engine fire up.
And not to forget, I change the oil + filter BEFORE I change injectors.
I always replace the injectors and take a very close look at the sleeves in the head.
I always change both filters when installing new injectors and prime the systems (fuel an oil side) before let the engine fire up.
And not to forget, I change the oil + filter BEFORE I change injectors.
no i didnt, heres the update i got everything back together, it will crank like normal for a few seconds at a time before sounding like its locked again. do you think i just didnt get all the fluid out of the cylinder? i dont have anything to suck it out but i did crank it for a good 30 seconds to spray out what would spray out of the glowplug hole
No need to blow out the cylinder when you cranked with glow plugs removed. Once running the small amount of fuel is burned with the first revs.
Pull Ficm relay and crank engine. Is there a "smooth" crank?
Pull Ficm relay and crank engine. Is there a "smooth" crank?
If you want to do something good for the injectors, do not start the engine with dry injectors (the rough noise you mentioned). Even if you wait a little with the key on until the pump switches off, there is still a lot of air in the system.
If you want, you can build an adapter cable for the fuel pump and connect it to a battery and let it run for a few minutes until the system is completely vented.
The best way to bleed the oil system is to remove the FICM relay or pull the FICM relay fuse. Then the IPR valve closes completely during cranking and most of the oil reaches the injectors. I'm doing this 3-4 times for 30 seconds. However, 100% bleeding of the oil system is only possible while driving.
With “dry” starting attempts, the injectors have already run the first 10000mls without the truck moving.
If you want, you can build an adapter cable for the fuel pump and connect it to a battery and let it run for a few minutes until the system is completely vented.
The best way to bleed the oil system is to remove the FICM relay or pull the FICM relay fuse. Then the IPR valve closes completely during cranking and most of the oil reaches the injectors. I'm doing this 3-4 times for 30 seconds. However, 100% bleeding of the oil system is only possible while driving.
With “dry” starting attempts, the injectors have already run the first 10000mls without the truck moving.
thank you all for your input, it is very much appreciated!
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PeterMtech
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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kjd212
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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Oct 29, 2018 08:06 AM











