When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
142,000 original miles, let's check the plugs! (6.2L)
Purchased Jan 2025 12x,000 miles.
2016 F250 Lariat 6.2L Flex, 6R140, 4x4
Finally have access to a shop. So let's get a better idea of how bad it was abused...
Manual says tune up is due at 97,500 miles (probably some conversion from km - confirmed, 150,000+Km), so I got plugs and wires and looked into it. The plugs look OEM, and the gap opened from .042" to .055". The coil packs are all functional, no idle/running issues, and no codes. Removing one of the coils, everything looks good, but the "fins" inside which holds the resistor "pill" and the spring are very degraded. The pill disintegrated when I tried to clean it - 2 metal caps, and dust. I was hoping to get a resistance reading, but I'll have to try on another - skipping any cleaning attempts.
I believe after 75-90,000 miles, the pill starts to corrode and swell. The corroded pill that came out was wider and almost 2x longer than the replacement. I'm assuming there is some resistance changes, then probably some internal arcing which weakens/eats the fins.
The new pill dropped into the coil pack, fell sideways, and was rattling around, "hotdog in a hallway" style.
Since a new pill would be useless, I took the old spring and stretched it out to make it fill the gap. While it will have more EMI/RFI, it's only temporary.
Putting this theory on the forum to look for some "peer review".
Motorcraft coils are $89ea x 8 on RockAuto.
My theory is after many miles (60k?) the "pill" begins to degrade, resistance changes, corrosion/swelling begins.
I'd imagine replacing the boots, springs, and pills every 50k could make the coil packs last MUCH longer.
Going to check the others when the coil packs arrive, I'm assuming it's all OEM, and toast.
Will post pix, resistance measurements, and a couple potential work arounds.
Purchased Jan 2025 12x,000 miles.
Finally have access to a shop. So let's get a better idea of how bad it was abused...
That being said, the owner was GREAT about oil changes. which were done at the dealership, all the visible internals were spotless, no gunk/sludge/milkshake.
No other fluids were changed.
When I did the ATF, it was dark, but translucent, and no burnt smell.
Transfer case is next with Ford fluid, then both differentials, and the brake fluid.
what is this pill you mention? I've never seen or installed one. Saw it referrenced to my 6.2L the other day, and now for the engine you're describing. 5.4, 6.2, or 7.3?
i know I'll get blasted for this but, here goes anyway.......
I have a 1999 F250 Super Duty with the V-10 engine. I bought it with just over 140,000 miles on it. It was a Parks and Rec supervisors truck in a small town in Arizona. The engine was running on about 6 cylinders and there were a lot of wiring issues. I fixed everything and used the truck to tow an 8X24 trailer to and from Phoenix to a small Central Illinois town and during 15 (YES 15!) trips I had absolutely no problems. I put all new coils in that I got on Amazon for about $11.00 each and I put in E3 spark plugs. Then I passed my Arizona emissions test on the first try,. I pulled that trailer over 45,000 miles moving to Illinois. Now, the truck just turned over 216,000 miles and it still runs and tows well. There are many people who say cheap coils won't work and the E3 spark plugs are junk. All I can say is that the coils are fine (according to my Launch computer) and I have E3 spark plugs in all of my cars and trucks (I have 8 total) and even my ZTR, lawn tractor, and 19 year old Toro mower. I just changed the plugs in my 1990 Chevy C1500 V6 (with 175,000 miles on it) and the E3 spark plugs looked like new. If anyone is interested I can post photos of the pIugs I am 74 years old and have been working on cars and trucks since I was 15 for what that is worth. Have fun with your truck.
QUOTE=Fredness;21634654]Purchased Jan 2025 12x,000 miles.
Finally have access to a shop. So let's get a better idea of how bad it was abused...
Manual says tune up is due at 97,500 miles (probably some conversion from km - confirmed, 150,000+Km), so I got plugs and wires and looked into it. The plugs look OEM, and the gap opened from .042" to .055". The coil packs are all functional, no idle/running issues, and no codes. Removing one of the coils, everything looks good, but the "fins" inside which holds the resistor "pill" and the spring are very degraded. The pill disintegrated when I tried to clean it - 2 metal caps, and dust. I was hoping to get a resistance reading, but I'll have to try on another - skipping any cleaning attempts.
I believe after 75-90,000 miles, the pill starts to corrode and swell. The corroded pill that came out was wider and almost 2x longer than the replacement. I'm assuming there is some resistance changes, then probably some internal arching which weakens/eats the fins.
The new pill dropped into the coil pack, fell sideways, and was rattling around, "hotdog in a hallway" style.
Since a new pill would be useless, I took the old spring and stretched it out to make it fill the gap. While it will have more EMI/RFI, it's only temporary.
Putting this theory on the forum to look for some "peer review".
Motorcraft coils are $89ea x 8 on RockAuto.
My theory is after many miles (60k?) the "pill" begins to degrade, resistance changes, corrosion/swelling begins.
I'd imagine replacing the boots, springs, and pills every 50k could make the coil packs last MUCH longer.
Going to check the others when the coil packs arrive, I'm assuming it's all OEM, and toast.
Will post pix, resistance measurements, and a couple potential work arounds.[/QUOTE]
I also have a 99 V10 4x4 with manual scsb.
bought it 12 years ago or so with 39k miles .
I am now at 530k ,changed plugs 3 times , never any coils .
I don't understand what this pill is you are talking about .
I have replaced the boots and springs one time .
still gets me 14 mpg pretty consistent, but 99 % of my driving is open hiway .
I take it your talking about a 6.2 gas. The coils eroding where the coil holds the resistor up is common and the easy fix is to use a piece of shrink tubing to hold the resister upright. When the resistors go bad the coil arks around the resistor eating away at the coil housing.
Denny, you are correct (fixed original post), and your "fix" is quite elegant!
Thanks!
I changed my plugs, boots and wires at 80K and after seeing what the resistors looked like I will change the boots and resisters at no longer than 50K.
Hour 3:
Top plugs 3 and 4 holes were full of "Rodent Excrement", and are being dug out with an assortment of long pokers, and vacuumed with a HEPA bag. I finally got down to the plug themselves and they won't budge.
Um...
This is it after the 3rd excavation:
Plug spotted!
Pretty sure there is a corrosion creating puddle of filth at the bottom.
Soaking it in WD overnight should help.
Specs:
Plug 1: Opened to over .055", RFI Pill disintegrated while cleaning.
New pill is 1.16K Ohms, plug gapped to .042"
Plug 2: Opened to over .055", RFI Pill heavily corroded, measured 20.1K Ohms.
New pill is 1.10K Ohms, plug gapped to .042"
Plug 3: Opened to over .055", RFI Pill heavily corroded, measured 8.1M Ohms.
New pill is 1.10K Ohms.
Plug 4: Opened to over .055", RFI Pill heavily corroded, measured 2.6M Ohms.
New pill is 1.19K Ohms.
None of the bottom plugs have been touched.
Photos, readings, and recording are making this probably 3x longer than it should be.
The excrement bath? Who knows.
Pro Tip: Pressure was the engine a few days before.
