Hi all i recently purchased a 6.0 that was not running for 8 years in a buddies field. got it home tore into it, replaced the hpop and branch tube seals. started up and has been running great. i tuned it with a 50 hp tune using the sct livewirets+
everythings been great but all the sudden in the drive through it wouldnt start back up, got it in the parking lot and cranked and watched my numbers, oil pressure was 480 while cranking. wouldnt start until oil temp was at 130 degrees.

 

What year engine might you have?

 

2003

 

You might have a leak in the high pressure oil system, or an IPR issue, or an HPOP issue. Air test to find the source.

 

Where did you get the HPOP from?

 

I had this exact same problem and would have to sit and wait for 30 mins or so. I tracked it down to leaky injector o-rings and nipple cups. I replaced all the nipple cups in the oil rails with HHC nipple cups and replaced all the o-rings on the injectors with Alliant o-rings. Problem went away and hasn't reoccurred since.

 

That is why a person needs to air test ......................

 

i will pull ipr tomorrow and check it out, if that doesnt work ill air test, my hpop is brand new as of 2500 miles ago. the hpop is an Atlas Billet Stage 1 round style for the 2003. resealed the branch tubes that are in there with the hpop aswell while i was in there. i pulled valve covers while i had everything out and checked out my injectors and everything as it was all unknown to me, there is a label under valve covers that says new injectors and reseal were done 03/08. all injector connectors looked good and didnt see any signs of leaks anywhere. its been running great but i assume that from sitting some o rings have gotten brittle and now that in running it theyre showing. assuming its gonna be an injector seal or standpope or something of the sorts. gonna air test tomorrow will let you know.

 

may i add icp is new, ipr is new, turbo is new aswell. did all that with the hpop. i do want to get my oil cooler filter out and check that out next weekend aswell i have a new filter coming

 

i am gonna pull ipr if it doesnt fix it ill air test and go that route. figure i should get around to it at some point anyways.

 

The reason the question was asked on the HPOP source, is that there have been many cases of remanufactured early HPOPs that were bad right out of the box, The best brands we have seen are the ones remanufactured by CNCFab and DieselSite. I haven't seen much on Atlas Diesel HPOPs (good or bad).

The early standpipes do not have leak issues.

I don't understand what you are saying here. How would pulling the IPR fix it? Sometimes new parts are bad, and many new IPRs have been a problem IF they were aftermarket. Not really possible to test the IPR (unless you have a very specialized bench). Changing a screen is often times recommended, but that won't fix a sticking IPR. If a screen is broken, then it is likely that metal pieces are inside of it and causing it to stick.

There is no indication of a bad ICP sensor. That said, it is best to watch the ICP sensor voltage output to help "solidify" the assessment.

 

i was told by my buddy who owns a 6.0 specialized mechanic shop that if an ipr is stuck open, unplugging it will allow it to start, not removing it sorry i was drunk last night we had the rodeo in town lol. my ipr is on warranty, i can take it back in if so.

 

What your buddy said is incorrect, or you misunderstood him.
If the truck won't start because of a bad ICP sensor, then unplugging it should/will allow it to start,

The IPR valve needs power to close, so that approach does not work on it. Unplugging the IPR will make it not work, and will make a good truck not start.

 

gotcha, i air tested, top seal on injector #4. everything else was air tight. ordered alliant seal kit for all 8 and gonna reseal them all.

 

Good deal. If it were me, I believe I would just do the driver's side and then see if it starts.