Using edge CTS to read all parameters.
EOT on cts differs from actual temp in oil reservoir.
If the CTS reads, lets say 210, the actual fluid in the reservoir using a temp thermometer into the port on the top of the lid reads 200.
Checked the fluid temp from a sample out of the pan, it's 50 degrees cooler.
Driving highway speeds (75) not towing, in 95 degree ambient temp the EOT will be above 230 on the gauge, I can pull over on side of the road, pop the hood put a laser temp gun on the reservoir and the temp will be around 200-205.
My engine coolant temp is alway's around 200, or less, I've got an Autometer gauge.
Trans temps are alway 160 ish on hot days.
We've replaced the oil cooler, radiator, fan clutch, water pump. 195* thermostat, put a Spal 16" pusher fan on condenser, New EOT sensor and pigtail.

Any input appreciated.

My thoughts are is that the PCM is getting tired as well as the wiring and it's resistance is giving false input to the PCM.


Mods: Mishmoto intercooler, Bostek HPOP, Melling LPOP, Swamps 175/146 injectors, PHP Tuner Swamps Hydra tunes, KC Gen 3 STG 1 turbo, 4" diamond eye exhaust, Pusher intake, Hellwig rear sway bar, driveshaft disconnect, Derale deep trans pan.
EBPV delete, Built Transmission, Tru cool Trans cooler, S&B airbox, x-code front leafs, 1263 dually rear springs, 4" lift. 35.12.5 18, BFg', Ranch hand frt bumper, Bodyguard rear bumper,

 

You are looking for issues where there are none...

If you got your sensors and control items from the Ford or International counter guy, Riffraff Diesel, CNC Fab, or Diesel O Rings you have OEM and the right stuff..and reading proper..
If you got your sensors and control items anywhere else you got junk, regardless of the package.

Below drug from another post I did today....
Running in Texas on a hot day or all the way out to Arizona I would not worry about 230 all day long on the highway if it was summer once warmed up. Oil will always run hotter than coolant. Oil even running into the 250 range for Dino based is ok for a short time as long as coolant stays in normal range and is controlled.

Also as a reminder, the oil needs to get over 200 for at least an hour, to start burning the garbage out.

Coolant normal is around 190-220, depending. Again.. the dash gauge is not reliable other than maybe status.

 

I installed the 203*F thermostat on purpose to facilitate the engine getting up to Operating Temperature, so that it can boil off the garbage condensation elements.

Diesels need to run at full Operating Temperature to be efficient.

this is from a run that I made last spring, on a 1500 mile trip, on the Interstates where I followed the fastest car/truck on the road for hours at a time.

 

Thanks for your input, Yes, my sensors are all ford or motorcraft. I'm running Amsoil and I'm a retired aviation mechanic "USCG" HC-130H Flight Engineer and HH-65A FLt Mech. I'm pretty knowledgable.
My concern is the difference between the gauge and the actual oil temp difference. If you read my post, I put a thermometer in to oil in the reservoir and it's 10* degrees lower then what the CTS say's. That's my issue.

 

Yeah, I appreciate the response. It's 72* IAT meaning it was probably what high 60's actual air temp? That's not 96* oil temp is gonna be lower, a 203 thermostat is fine but boiling all stuff off occurs at 212*. My issue is the difference between sensor and actual thermometer in the oil at port on reservoir. it's a 10* difference and 50* difference from sample at the pan.

 

I'd offer that your CTS needs to be calibrated...if that is possible. Just because you have Ford or Motorcraft packaging does not mean you have the real deal. Jimmy listed the vendors in his post above for a reason. Those 4 or 5 vendors have established supply chains that are the real deal, and not false packaged China-junk laundered on the American market. There are so many fake Motorcraft parts out there it is nuts.

Welcome to-from a fellow brown-shoe sailor (Coasties sail a little bit).

 

Semper Paratus:
Yeah, thanks. Not sure about the CTS, will check for an update.
On the sensor, Got it from Napa here, local. It's not the issue. It's reading the same as the old sensor.

If it weren't for the Coast Guard all Navy kids would be ugly. So, a little nautical humor.

 

Well, Updated my Edge CS and reinstalled it. We got the Autometer EOT electric gauge installed and put a T off the back off the Reservoir, installed both sensors there. As expected, the Autometer is 11-13 degrees cooler. Edge CS read 216, the Autometer is 203-205. So, not sure what I think about that. I may go ahead and install an external cooler off the side of the factory cooler for ****s and grins, other than not much else to do. I'm beginning to regret all the mods I've done. It's just a Pandora's box that never seems to close.

 

get an IR Temperature Gun,

shoot the base where the sensors are, that will give you a true reading.

get up close as you can so the gun does not "see a wider picture", like the Exhaust manifolds.

also, shoot the temp at the inlet to the Radiator.


10* is not a horrible difference.
that Temp gun will show you how much variance there is on an engine,
shoot the oil pan while you are at it.

 

Yes Sir, I don't like reading the beginning of post either, so I'm guilty of commenting before I get the complete picture sometimes. If you'd read my initial start up thread you would've seen that I 've got an IR gun that's how I realized something wasn't jiving with the readings.

 

I did read it, but I was concentrating on the two measurement devices,
I only have the CTS-3 now, with EOT.

bought the Diesel Street kit, but ran into a problem feeding the cable thru the firewall, I had already run some heavy thick wires thru the gromment, and not enough room left for the Edge big thing in the middle to slide thru.

 

I'm not convinced you have a problem, but you may be onto something worrying about wiring and resistance as some added resistance in that circuit would reasonably be expected to drive up the measured temperature. It's hard to navigate the material for these trucks on All Data but what I am seeing makes me think that ground for that circuit is possibly G116 on the left side of the firewall, probably near the PCM itself if I had to guess. Maybe take that ground off make sure its clean and shiny and see if that affects anything. I would not suspect terminals in the sensor connection or PCM connection to be an issue here wrt to resistance changes but if you find one or the other is gross, clean it.

 

*Update*
We pulled the oil reservoir and replaced the top because a long time back I'd switched the sensor from the left side to the right because I couldn't
get the sensor tight on the left side hole, it kind of stripped the threads a little. So, we pulled the entire reservoir to check to see if the screen to see if it was gummed up, it was fine, ,we replaced the screen and the top, we put it all back together and I've driven it around the last couple of days and I've not seen the EOT over 214 on the Tuner and 204 on the Autometer Direct gauge on 93 degree days. Will monitor it and see if it continues the trend.