1995 E350 Clubwagon with 105k, 460 with an E4OD. I've known the van its whole life and it's had a relatively easy go. In the 5 or 6 years I've owned it I've only towed a car with it once and that was uneventful. For whatever reason a few months ago the trans starting slipping so I got a code reader and while I don't remember the exact codes, there were 5 or 6 that were in the 600 range, 626, 629, 634, etc. Seemed like a solenoid problem to me so I replaced the solenoid pack and the accumulator body with rebuilt units from a reputable shop. Drove the van on a few short runs on "local roads" over the last couple months and apart from a pretty good bang from first to second it drove well with no slipping.

Recently it got a real test, I drove about 20 minutes on the highway, mostly with the cruise and once again apart from that bang from first to second I was really pleased with how well it drove. I got off the highway and found that when starting in 2nd to eliminate the 1<>2 shift, all other shifts up and down through OD were always smooth. After about 15 minutes of stop and go driving I noticed the front drivers caliper was grabbing, I could smell the pad getting hot along with some pulling to the left. Approaching a traffic light that had recently turned green I tried to engine brake by turning off the OD on the stalk as I approached the stacked up cars and that's when all hell broke loose. I pressed the button again to activate the OD and there was no dash light indicating OD ON/OFF which I though was weird, but it immediately started slipping and dropping into 3rd, and as far as I remember slipping in third as well (maybe). I nursed it along to get it home and I noticed that if I left it in 2nd it drove fine, it still banged if I started in first but it would only slip if I moved the stalk to Drive, and I'm pretty sure it would only slip after it got to OD. I pressed the button a couple more times, again with no dash light indicating OD ON or OFF, but the slipping was still persistent under acceleration in the higher two gears.

I've read through a few threads and I'm trying to figure out what the next step is. I'm a couple days away from being able to read the codes again so in the meantime I wanted to as the advice of those more familiar with these transmissions while I do more research.

Edit: I'm not sure it's at all relevant but it's worth mentioning that the ABS light has been on for as long as I've owned the van. Six years and ~3k miles.

 

Without knowing the codes, all I can tell you is that something is wrong. If you need more details, we will need the codes.

 

in 1995 this is what Ford used to read codes on that trans
These are out there as cheap as a diagnosis from the dealer in some cases

 

So I got over to the van today and tried to pull the codes. I have your basic Innova "Ford Code Reader" and last time it gave me about 6 codes, all of which were related to the solenoid pack. This time I got 111, aka "System Pass", followed by 10, which as I understand it is "we're done here". Not sure why something more revealing didn't spit out, there were definitely some crazy shifting problems. I got to thinking that since the proverbial "you know what" hit the fan as I pressed the O/D Off button, maybe disconnecting the battery for a bit and letting the system reset and then driving it again may be the next move. If all goes well I'll just dig that little button out of the stalk and drive on (I wish it were that easy...). Seriously, I don't know what else to do at this point beyond get her back out on the road and see what happens. That wasn't an option today so I was resigned to reading the (no) codes and leaving scratching my head.

Edit: Hey, I was pressed for time an only did the KOEO test. After reading the Innova manual a little more (RTFM) it seems like failing to do the KOER test was a mistake. Back to the drawing board. I guess my new questions are not related to the transmission itself but am I on the right track reading the codes? I have to believe there are some codes down in the bowels of this thing.

 

The code output formula (for yours) is 111-10-111 where 10 is the separator code between hard faults and continuous memory codes
Your 111-10 is telling you that there are no hard faults, but you are not done with the test until it spits out the 111-10-111
It will repeat that over and over
Is the OD off button lit when you push iy?
Is it flashing?
Those wires going through the stalk break
You need a new lever for these trucks about every 200-300k k miles due to the wires breaking
I'm not sure that Innova will read trans codes
If you go into the running test and do not do the goose test or the BOO switch test,. it will think you went to lunch and stop the output
At least that is how a Ford Star tester or Superstar 2 outputs codes
First thing you'll need when you do get it to output codes is a PCED
Might want to find one of those for your year now, or plan on hitting your library for AllData

 

Yes, it did this. Then I shut everything off and read the codes using the Memory button, and saw it again. Then I redid the test and the second time I only got 111 for about 60 seconds. The square flashed at first but then it just sat at 111.
I didn't see any lights in the cluster when I pressed the button (numerous times). I was dealing with traffic and the trans slipping tho so not really searching for the OD light. I have seen it in the past however so I know what it looks like, I just don't recall seeing it this time. Next drive I'll verify.
This truck has just over 100k and while that's no guarantee, it has had an easy life. I'll troubleshoot the wiring with a meter depending on what the next drive does. The switch obviously did something because that initiated the trans problems. Unless it was purely coincidental which I find hard to believe.
It gave me all the codes for the faulty solenoid pack so I assume it does.
Can you elaborate on these comments?
I may have AllData, I did at one point a thousand years ago.

Thanks!

 

With only 100k, your shift lever with the wires inside is most likely okay
The running test is not hard to perform but if you miss a step, you get erroneous codes
Clutch codes for not hitting the clutch, and others related to your knock sensor for instance if you do not smack the engine with a hammer and extension
Same with the boo switch if you don't hit the brakes and the TP if you do not do the WOT / goose test
Read through how to do both of the self tests in a Ford service manual or the PCED
You have no numbers for the solenoid pack codes it gave you?
Were the codes in front or behind the Seperator code 10?
The OD off light is on the lever next to the switch, not in the cluster, so look for it to be lit up there if you hit the button