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i have been having an odd issue, and it is the reason I changed the fuel filter it will run roughly so since CEL was on I went and got a obd1 reaser but it will not trigger the diagnostics or code flash I tried a jumper wire and it will not trigger koeo tess the CEL just stays on I checked voltage on port and it has 3ish volts. unfourtently I have no idea where to trace back to or what I should check next any help would be great.
So the connector will have 4 slots on top and 2 slots on the bottom, with the 2 slots facing down, you jumper the bottom left slot to the gray terminal that is not on the black 6 connector terminal. There are some actual tools you need but if you are just using a wire then it might be a little loose in the connector.
that is what i have done i also have tried a obd1 ford code reader I noticed the fuel pump turns on but doesn't turn off. not sure if this is relevant or not
It may be possible someone rearranged the wires. You should jumper the gray/pink wire to the white/purple wire. If the wire colors are different than someone probably messed with the harness.
well i found out part of issue I had a clogged fuel line no idea how so fuel is flowing. however I noticed a new thing when I turn key on the fuelpump comes on and the CEL flickers extremely fast then goes to steady and the pump stays on. I have checked all wiring at ecu it all looks good but not sure what to check from there if there is a specific place I should check before throwing a new ecu at it
It's worth having a look at the circuit board in the computer. Capacitor replacement is fairly simple and a common failure with these trucks. Here's the thread where I did mine. Relay chatter after turning key off - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-key-off.html
Your computer is removed by pulling it into the engine compartment, by working through the fender well with the fender liner removed.
Remove the driver's side kick panel behind the parking brake pedal, remove the bracket that's holding the computer, then move to the engine compartment and back the bolt out that holds the harness connector to the computer. It takes a 10 mm socket. The bolt stays with the connector, once it's loose.
Then with the fender liner out of the way, pull the computer into the engine compartment.
On the circuit board, the blue capacitors' negative legs will be marked with a stripe. Pay attention to how they're oriented, for replacement.
thanks i will give that a look though it decided to start and code earlier I got a code 211 for pip fault I actually have a spare distributor setting in box so I'm thinking about swapping that out before I pull the computer. would that sensor also cause all kinds of havoc?
thanks i will give that a look though it decided to start and code earlier I got a code 211 for pip fault I actually have a spare distributor setting in box so I'm thinking about swapping that out before I pull the computer. would that sensor also cause all kinds of havoc?
Actually the symptoms you've described so far point more to the computer than the PIP sensor. I wouldn't be too quick to swap distributors, on the theory of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
While you're in there, it's a good time to disassemble and clean the various ground connections. Check out posts 6 and 7 at this thread Ground Points - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums https://share.google/Jm8I7kpF6Oa5ki9iF
The main ground cable from the battery negative terminal to the face of the engine block, can corrode internally and need replacement.
Also, the battery terminals that hold the cable by clamping it between two 1/4" bolts, are known to cause issues with loose connections and corrosion.