2004 6.0l Ac help
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2017
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2004 6.0l Ac help
Im in need of some ac help on a 2004 f250 6.0l. About 3 years ago I replaced compressor, evaporator/dryer, condenser and the orifice tube as well as flushed all the lines before it all went back together. Pulled a vacuum and it held good. It's been working great since then but recently whenever I'm towing one of my trailers it will start blowing luke warm air after driving for awhile even though it's not even getting on the hotter side. If I park for a little bit it blows cold again. Any thoughts what my issue could be? Thanks.
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5th Wheeling
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I haven't noticed the condensation draining for a long time but I've also noticed my compressor doesn't seem to be cycling on and off (seems to just stay on). I use to be able and hear it cycle but now I don't. The evaporator lines definitely aren't freezing up either they turn warm. Also on one side of the orifice tube line(not sure what that line is referred as) it's warm and the opposite end it's cold. Not sure if that's normal or not.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
It's completely normal for the line to be hot before and cold after the orifice tube.
Next time it goes warm, stop, leave the engine running and the climate control in whatever position it's in and look at the compressor to verify it's engaged. As the compressor clutch plates wear, the air gap between them increases. When it gets too wide, clutch engagement becomes unreliable. If that's what's going on, tapping the face.of the clutch plate should convince the clutch to engage.
The air gap is adjusted with shims between the clutch plate and compressor shaft and the air gap spec is 0.015 - 0.030, IIRC.
Next time it goes warm, stop, leave the engine running and the climate control in whatever position it's in and look at the compressor to verify it's engaged. As the compressor clutch plates wear, the air gap between them increases. When it gets too wide, clutch engagement becomes unreliable. If that's what's going on, tapping the face.of the clutch plate should convince the clutch to engage.
The air gap is adjusted with shims between the clutch plate and compressor shaft and the air gap spec is 0.015 - 0.030, IIRC.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2017
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Ok so it happened again yesterday and I pulled over and sure enough compressor clutch wasn't turning. Gave it some taps and nothing when I got home checked gap and ended pulling one of the two shims out. It didn't seem like there was alot of life left on the clutch hub( don't know how they look new). Worked great until test run after work today with a trailer hooked up and same thing. I'm not noticing any kind of condensation drips and doesn't seem like the compressor ever cycles off. Might that also be the high pressure cut out switch?
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