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I’m about out of ideas with this thing, 1992 f350 460 E4od. Running down the road the tc will lock and unlock and random, and just recently it starting hanging up and refusing to shift on its own. In drive it wouldn’t come out of first but it would go into second when manually selected on the shifter. The kicker is it doesn’t do this all the time, about every other trip it seems it’ll perform just fine and then the other half the time I wonder if I’m going to make it home. I’ve replaced the MLPS, TPS, the break light switch, the tachometer, and the entire solenoid block. I’m leaning towards it being an electrical issue but I’m obviously not sure. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I’ve replaced the MLPS, TPS, the break light switch, the tachometer, and the entire solenoid block. I’m leaning towards it being an electrical issue but I’m obviously not sure. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
So in any of this parts replacing did you check for fault codes? If so, what did you get and what did you do to keep the code from returning?
I’m about out of ideas with this thing, 1992 f350 460 E4od. Running down the road the tc will lock and unlock and random, and just recently it starting hanging up and refusing to shift on its own. In drive it wouldn’t come out of first but it would go into second when manually selected on the shifter. The kicker is it doesn’t do this all the time, about every other trip it seems it’ll perform just fine and then the other half the time I wonder if I’m going to make it home. I’ve replaced the MLPS, TPS, the break light switch, the tachometer, and the entire solenoid block. I’m leaning towards it being an electrical issue but I’m obviously not sure. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Written for the IDI diesel section, but the basic principles will help you get tot he bottom of this, from bad pack plug to bad ecm.(obviously, never mind the diesel TECA stuff.)
If you've been having a time with it, and replaced stuff already, then you may want to jump right to the LED light test. If our ECM isn't putting out the correct shift commands, then there ya go, bad ECM see? No sense in even looking further until you know that is acting right.
I’ve tried pulling codes to no avail, I have picked up a vss today and ordered a reman ecm from rockauto. I pulled mine out yesterday and there was very little water damage but some non the less. After all that if I’m still having issues do you think I should send the cluster off for inspection/repairs?
I’ve replaced the MLPS, TPS, the break light switch, the tachometer, and the entire solenoid block.
How did you check for codes? No codes at all?
It is possible with new parts, you are inducing new issues with defective parts, compounding your original issues. Even using new Motorcraft.
I’ll assume the ‘solenoid block’ meaning, the solenoid pack in the transmission? Where did it come from and which is it? There is an early and late model, and cannot be switched going backwards. Meaning, the early models had diodes in the solenoid packs, and the late had the diode in the PCM. If they get switched, it possible to damage the PCM on early models.
I’ve tried pulling codes to no avail, I have picked up a vss today and ordered a reman ecm from rockauto. I pulled mine out yesterday and there was very little water damage but some non the less. After all that if I’m still having issues do you think I should send the cluster off for inspection/repairs?
No. You need to diagnose more, if not, get another truck.
When you pull codes, there is an all clear, complete code 111, did you get that? I"m not sure what "to no avail" means.
What size tires and rear end gears do you have on your truck?
I’m about out of ideas with this thing, 1992 f350 460 E4od. Running down the road the tc will lock and unlock and random, and just recently it starting hanging up and refusing to shift on its own. In drive it wouldn’t come out of first but it would go into second when manually selected on the shifter. The kicker is it doesn’t do this all the time, about every other trip it seems it’ll perform just fine and then the other half the time I wonder if I’m going to make it home. I’ve replaced the MLPS, TPS, the break light switch, the tachometer, and the entire solenoid block. I’m leaning towards it being an electrical issue but I’m obviously not sure. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I actually just resolved some very similar symptoms. I am NOT a mechanic, but...have you checked the transmission harnesses? I would have intermittent problems, things would be fine, then one wrong turn or bump and she'd stop shifting and lose power. I went through some of the same replacements you did. Then an actual mechanic friend of mine went sniffing around and found wildly corroded/damaged harness ends. Less than ideal...
After we switched out that harness, almost all of my transmission issues ceased.
It is possible with new parts, you are inducing new issues with defective parts, compounding your original issues. Even using new Motorcraft.
I’ll assume the ‘solenoid block’ meaning, the solenoid pack in the transmission? Where did it come from and which is it? There is an early and late model, and cannot be switched going backwards. Meaning, the early models had diodes in the solenoid packs, and the late had the diode in the PCM. If they get switched, it possible to damage the PCM on early models.
I have and obd1 reader that I ordered off Amazon but I’ve also had it checked at a reputable transmission shop and it didn’t have any codes present.
The solenoid pack was a reman purchased through advance, the reason it was replaced it because it was allowing excessive amount of fluid into the harness. While I was there I found extensive wire damage to the harness itself so it was replaced too. The pack itself was indistinguishable from the was that was removed.
what’s not making sense to me is how intermittent the issues are, there are times I can seriously drive it for weeks without an issue
Ugh, that sucks. I agree then, you might have an electrical issue. Those can be hard to find when they are intermittent. You’ll be into checking the harnesses over and ring them out. Those jobs are not fun. Make sure you’re shaking it and moving it around while doing it too. Could be a high resistance / internally corroded wire too, I’ve chased down a few of those. Never fun at all.
What code reader are you using? Most here are using the Innova 3135, it’s what I use. Works well and easy to use. The manual has all the codes in it as well.
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