Particulate matter sensor
About an hour and a half into the trip, the truck did a regen. About another hour later, we stopped at a rest stop, and as we were pulling out, I noticed that the CEL was on. When I read the codes, I got a confirmed P24C6, which best I can tell from searching on line is "particulate matter sensor temperature circuit error." I also got pending P24B7 (PM sensor heater resistance) and P24B0 (PM sensor circuit low). I cleared the codes and the CEL was gone the next time I started up, but it returned as soon as I shut down and restarted. Now I'm only seeing the confirmed P24C6 and a pending P24C6(00).
I went ahead and finished the trip with my fingers crossed that the DPF didn't plug up. I'm assuming it's not going to do a proper regen with this sensor going haywire. Made it home without incident, but it's been probably 400ish miles since the last regen, so I'm thinking I need to deal with this pronto.
I have no experience with FORSCAN, and my general OBD experience is basically just reading codes. So I don't feel confident doing diagnostics. Is this a clear cut case of replacing the sensor? Or does it require diagnostic work to determine if the sensor is bad or some other problem is causing the CEL? I can throw parts, but if it needs real diagnostic work, I'll probably need to take it to someone who knows what they're doing.
Also, I've been reading horror stories about how difficult removing the sensor can be. I'm a basic hand tool DIYer. I don't have a torch or any impact tools, and probably can't convince the boss that I need to buy them. Is it possible to tackle this sensor with a wrench, a heat gun and a can of PB Blaster?
The truck is mechanically stock except for a 60 gallon Titan fuel tank and a SPE cold side hose, so no mods that should have any effect on the DPF system. Before I bought it, the truck spent its life in northern Virginia, where it likely was exposed to occasional road salt, but not all winter long like the true rust belt. The DPF itself has some rust on it, but most of the exhaust system just has a few spots of surface rust here and there.
Luckily they were able to get the sensor out and total bill was a little over 1k. It is a little tight to get to the sensor with not much play for a long handled tool. My error on sensor did not happen until they did a software update on the PCM, 3 days later, I got the CEL. Good luck if you are going to try and do this yourself. I was lucky that the mechanic was very experienced and was able to get it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384106958765?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110 006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D28568 1%2C286222%2C285832%2C286025%26meid%3Dec3f82dfebe9 4b3b9f3c79d505c5fabd%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D1%26rkt %3D4%26sd%3D385164723798%26itm%3D384106958765%26pm t%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimplAMLv1 1PairwiseFitmentPromotionV2WithCassiniQueryEmbReca llKatReco%26brand%3DBosch&_trksid=p2332490.c101875 .m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A384106958765ec3f82dfebe94b3b 9f3c79d505c5fabd%7Cenc%3AAQAKAAABMCggmqi%252BjGBvS 8WShKTeLW5J2g6qXnzgH61T5t8ujPfO4ZJHWSDajmSreRV%252 BXNto1elxKNVVM64kNmwVgiMN2szhK0tlR1011FXMzSAB1PUgT p2qQYj%252BwS1et9m56PCTFPkXodp3SAnXvXKt4webULulcTU F7ZKklc0A4vheWEb9P%252BquyEOl7zNekDRFLoZseh%252FDM p0jaeYivM1cQRt8XQ9DnnBzZD6qgYvvCxrQUUOilGot83VySDt 4FsWyra%252FwC29LYl39azhA3nYoxhph9cq2jq5mDysxFOGla bquTNfhYPnwuhyxB1pTu13P4%252BJVTfSkRENuYOW50j2aivU 4ikvTM%252FP6IczNOoizQKipoUluHKxyqFa2gRPY8nWsz2i3N dyKKf4QAi2MqjIGS2%252B3ZrQ%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7 Cclp%3A2332490&epid=4045899426&itmmeta=01JVSTX5PAX 8TVXW86EJ0CESPS
Are we fairly sure that it's a case of replacing the sensor without needing to do additional diagnostics? If that's the case, I know a couple of independent shops that would probably do it for way less than the dealership.
rear of the pipe at the hump is the number 2 nox sensor
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If its the PM sensor (22mm x 1.5), here's a few links from EBay.
https://ebay.us/m/2AP4De
https://ebay.us/m/5HlyaJ
Or if it's a NOx sensor, have to find out what threads the 6.7 uses. There's two listed, 20mm x1.5 and 18mm x 1.5. The JTE guys may know, unless our trucks possible use both...
https://ebay.us/m/lQR3S5
https://ebay.us/m/HBclHg
This is much cheaper to have the DPF removed out of truck, the old bung heated up red hot and popped off, and have a new bung welded on for new sensor, if the old sensor will not come out then to have to buy new components, especially if its in the DPF.
Good luck.
This guy is working on a 2018, but he says it's the same for 2015-present. Same P24C6 code I'm getting.
This guy is working on a 2015 with the P24C6 code.
This one is also a 2015 (F250) with P24C6. At a couple of points in the video, he refers to it as a "NOx sensor," but according to his scan tool and the TSB he references, he is clearly working on a PM sensor problem, so I think that was just a slip of the tongue.
A couple of folks in this thread had the code, and the conversation suggests that the sensor is in the tail pipe
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...c6-code-2.html
So seems like the one I'm after is the one in the tail pipe hump. But if I am wrong, please let me know before I eff up the wrong sensor.
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/ot...ouHW0MrLcBdv4C
Edit: Sorry, I guess the diagram showing the location of the part doesn't show up when you're not logged into your account. When I was logged in using my truck's VIN, it showed the part in the tailpipe over the rear axle.
you can see the "Particulate matter sensor and module was added after the DPF" in 2015. And that is in the tailpipe after the DPF up in the hump going over the axle.
This is exactly what I remember when I was last looking at it under my truck. This:

On Village Ford Parts, I can see that the tailpipes are 900 bucks. Or you could do a DPF back exhaust for less money. Or you could buy a bung and sensor to have someone remove the tailpipe, heat up and remove the old bung/sensor and weld the new bung on/install new sensor.
I still want to do a DPF back tail pipe on my truck. I was planning on buying a new sensor as I'm sure mine is corroded in there from the winters here in WNY, so I'd just unhook the harness and leave it installed when I do it.













