Vacuum leak possible
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1st Gear
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Vacuum leak possible
I have a 1978 F-150 Ranger, with the 400 automatic, factory a/c. I have the vacuum canister ball on the drivers side. Under hard acceleration, it sputters, as if there is a vacuum leak somewhere. I have replaced all vacuum lines to my knowledge with the exception of the lines to the "ball". Is it possible (from reading other threads here) that the ball itself or the lines could be bad?
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Near Yosemite CA
I have a 1978 F-150 Ranger, with the 400 automatic, factory a/c. I have the vacuum canister ball on the drivers side. Under hard acceleration, it sputters, as if there is a vacuum leak somewhere. I have replaced all vacuum lines to my knowledge with the exception of the lines to the "ball". Is it possible (from reading other threads here) that the ball itself or the lines could be bad?
Yes it is, it could also be time for a carb rebuild... IIRC the "ball" chinga was used for CC, do you have/still have CC, if not, I would trace the vac line back and plug, if so, I would rplc all with new, and check chinga for holding vac. On my 77 F10 the coffee can chinga had a small hole and was leaking causing a lean miss and smog fail (effing Kalifornia)
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Near Yosemite CA
You'll know if you have CC if a) you have buttons on steering wheel, or on turn signal stalk.
How old is the Edelbrock? If more than 5yrs I would look at a rebuild, especially depending on where you are, I know my BIL in MO was running the ethanol crap in my 79 F250 I sold him, and it ate up the rubber float needle and was flooding the carb.
How old is the Edelbrock? If more than 5yrs I would look at a rebuild, especially depending on where you are, I know my BIL in MO was running the ethanol crap in my 79 F250 I sold him, and it ate up the rubber float needle and was flooding the carb.
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You need to check your timing curve with a dial back. retarded timing causes excessive heat, poor performance and poor fuel economy. advanced timing can cause poor running conditions and engine damage. initial timing tells you what it is at idle and beyond that it means nothing.
On your carburation the best bet is to toss the AFB and buy a Holley. but if you want to put up with it , make sure you choke is completely open, your float level and jetting. good luck.
On your carburation the best bet is to toss the AFB and buy a Holley. but if you want to put up with it , make sure you choke is completely open, your float level and jetting. good luck.
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Jul 19, 2023 04:49 PM