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Old May 10, 2025 | 06:44 PM
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Question Jumper Cable Question

Is it possible to to use th 7 pin plug on the rear bumper as the hot side for a set of jumper cables?
 
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Old May 10, 2025 | 08:03 PM
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In a word…no. That connection is designed for powering a few lights, not providing enough power to jump a vehicle. Additionally, you run the risk of damaging the system if you rig up a connection and try to jump a car. As they say, always use the right tool for the job and a 7 pin is not it.
 
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Old May 11, 2025 | 08:19 AM
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I'm no electrician. But if I recall correctly those who have run dedicated jumper cable plugs to the back, similar to what a wrecker may have, used heavy gauge wire and possibly relays to get what they needed.
As Dan said, that 7 pin ain't cutting it for such a draw.
 
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Old May 11, 2025 | 09:21 AM
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I would recommend getting a lithium battery jumper set like this.

Amazon Amazon

The lithium work batteries handle high amp draws surprisingly well, you probably already have the battery and worse case, you destroy a battery and not your truck.

Noco also makes some great jumper batteries but they are a lot more expensive. The upside is they are great for providing power for other 12V/5V needs.
 
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Old May 11, 2025 | 09:22 AM
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I think there is another problem besides the circuit not being able to carry the current required to start the truck (circuit protection fuse would blow); isn't the 12V wire in the 7 pin plug inactive until the truck is running and the brake pedal has been pressed, or something like that?
 
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Old May 13, 2025 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 2017-350
Is it possible to to use th 7 pin plug on the rear bumper as the hot side for a set of jumper cables?
To echo everyone else, no, you shouldn't try to use the 7 pin at the back of the truck for anything other than powering lights and a trickle-charge to your battery on the trailer if equipped. There isn't enough wire there to draw the amps you'd need to jumpstart a vehicle, it is FAR too small of a gauge wire. To power something like that, you'll need to run dedicated wire, probably a 0 or 00 gauge, to a specialty sealed connector, then fab up the other end of your jumper cables to have the other side of that connector on them (think the connectors on an electric fork truck, something similar).

I'll freely admit that I have never been in a situation where I wished I'd had a connection for this at the back of my truck. I have also never used anything lighter than 2 gauge jumper cables, and prefer 0 gauge. They're almost always longer and can handle high amp loads without question.
 
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Old May 14, 2025 | 05:56 PM
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Little of topic but the same, does anyone know how many amps the pin puts out for a trickle charger?
 
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Old May 14, 2025 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jsduty
Little of topic but the same, does anyone know how many amps the pin puts out for a trickle charger?
MY24 engine compartment fusebox fuse number 76 “Trailer tow lighting module battery charge”, which I believe is the pin you are asking about (trailer harness wire color orange) is 25A
 
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Old May 14, 2025 | 08:05 PM
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BIG THANKS !!!
 
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Old May 15, 2025 | 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Gladstone
MY24 engine compartment fusebox fuse number 76 “Trailer tow lighting module battery charge”, which I believe is the pin you are asking about (trailer harness wire color orange) is 25A
It is RATED to 25 amps...but if you're drawing that much, either you've got a fully dead battery or a short in the system somewhere. I wouldn't actively TRY to pull 25 amps over that wire. Keep it to 10 amps or less - that's where most battery chargers (not maintainers/tenders) put out.
 
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Old May 15, 2025 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 99powerstrokedF250
It is RATED to 25 amps...but if you're drawing that much, either you've got a fully dead battery or a short in the system somewhere. I wouldn't actively TRY to pull 25 amps over that wire. Keep it to 10 amps or less - that's where most battery chargers (not maintainers/tenders) put out.
Good advice, the fuse is there to protect from a short or sustained current sufficient to overheat wire or other components (relays for example). 10A is a safe bet. If you need more, add a new circuit with wiring designed to handle the load.
 
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