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Old May 10, 2025 | 03:55 PM
  #16  
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If you are seeing the proper voltage and current for each brake then there isn’t much left to got wrong. The obvious question to me becomes; Are they adjusted properly? Did you follow the procedure that Dexter recommends?

It sounds like they might not be adjusted tight enough.
Bob
 
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Old May 10, 2025 | 05:27 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by HorizontalHunter
If you are seeing the proper voltage and current for each brake then there isn’t much left to got wrong. The obvious question to me becomes; Are they adjusted properly? Did you follow the procedure that Dexter recommends?

It sounds like they might not be adjusted tight enough.
Bob
Ya I did, watched about a hundred videos on troubleshooting and adjusting trailer brakes. My buddy is a mechanic, had him come over and make sure I wasn't missing anything. We readjusted everything. I don't know if my expectations are just too high or what but to give you an example, I was driving about 40 on flat ground. I manually applied trailer brakes with gain on 10 and it took probably 100 yards or better to bring my rig to a stop. I even tried the plug on my bumper to make sure it wasn't a bad connection with my bed plug but it didn't make a difference.
 
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Old May 10, 2025 | 06:22 PM
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The next troubleshooting step would be to have the dealer replace the trailer brake control module, or at least test it.
 
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Old May 10, 2025 | 06:24 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by HRTKD
The next troubleshooting step would be to have the dealer replace the trailer brake control module, or at least test it.
I didn't have an issue with our previous camper though and the brakes work great on my 24' bumper pull aluminum trailer.
 
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Old May 10, 2025 | 07:30 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by cpobst
Ya I did, watched about a hundred videos on troubleshooting and adjusting trailer brakes. My buddy is a mechanic, had him come over and make sure I wasn't missing anything. We readjusted everything. I don't know if my expectations are just too high or what but to give you an example, I was driving about 40 on flat ground. I manually applied trailer brakes with gain on 10 and it took probably 100 yards or better to bring my rig to a stop. I even tried the plug on my bumper to make sure it wasn't a bad connection with my bed plug but it didn't make a difference.
I figured you had it covered but there isn't much left to look at given that the voltage and current measurements are correct and the controller works properly on other trailers.

I wouldn’t pull a trailer that wouldn’t brake hard or lock up with the brake controller. We suffered GM hitch failure in 22 in New Hampshire. The trailer ended up on its side and the truck ended upon the Jersey barrier. Having trailer brakes that worked properly saved our lives as I was able to get it slowed down a lot with the brake controller before the trailer went over.

I would probably call Dexter on Monday and see what they say.

I would also try to tighten them up a couple of clicks and see how they run a little tighter while watching the wheel temp. There is the possibility that they are just too loose.

Bob
 
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Old May 10, 2025 | 09:28 PM
  #21  
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It sounds to me that you have more trailer than the brakes can handle. Just a guess but I bet they are only 2" wide shoes. We ordered our trailer with Dexter HD 3.25 wide by 12.25 diameter shoes and they worked great until they started falling apart from use. We have Kodiak 12" disk brakes now and wouldn't have anything else, they will stop the truck if needed.

Denny
 
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Old May 11, 2025 | 06:29 PM
  #22  
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Ordered the DeeMaxx kit from etrailer. Should be here Tuesday and hopefully I can immediately start working on the install.
 
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Old May 11, 2025 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by cpobst
Ordered the DeeMaxx kit from etrailer. Should be here Tuesday and hopefully I can immediately start working on the install.
​​​​​​
Good move you won't regret it.
Remember to set the controller to electric over hydraulic and every time you disconnect the battery you will have to reset it.

Denny
 
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Old May 17, 2025 | 07:34 PM
  #24  
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Weather finally cooperated and I got one side installed today. Straightforward install so far. Everything bolts right up like it should.


 
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Old May 17, 2025 | 08:56 PM
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I would consider doing that but the hydraulic lines are something I've never done before.
 
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Old May 17, 2025 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by HRTKD
I would consider doing that but the hydraulic lines are something I've never done before.
This kit comes with all rubber brake lines, that's one of the reasons I went with it. I didn't want to mess with rigid lines.
 
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Old May 17, 2025 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by cpobst
This kit comes with all rubber brake lines, that's one of the reasons I went with it. I didn't want to mess with rigid lines.
Oh, that's good to know! The last time I looked into it, they were using rigid lines to near the axle and then rubber down to the axle.
 
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Old May 18, 2025 | 07:30 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by HRTKD
I would consider doing that but the hydraulic lines are something I've never done before.
The kit I ordered had hard lines with rubber lines to the calipers and it was easy to install with no flaring of lines. If any of the lines were to long you just form a coil to shorten them up. Been using them for 10 years with no problems and no loss of fluid.

Denny
 
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Old May 23, 2025 | 05:13 PM
  #29  
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Finished it all up today. They work great now. Night and day difference between the two.
 
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Old May 25, 2025 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by cpobst
Finished it all up today. They work great now. Night and day difference between the two.
Glad to hear you got it squared away! Even though it was more expensive, I think you did the right thing by putting safety over cost.
 
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