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What is the purpose of the white wire? I replaced my inverter today and I have a question. Did you leave your neutral floating or did you ground it?
I was trying to figure out where the ground wire from the receptacles is located and then after using a flashlight I realized they are just empty holes in the receptacles
Last edited by Garbageman 134; Feb 17, 2026 at 03:36 PM.
Today I installed a relay that has a 120vac coil and used that to send 12vdc power to the LED's and ran into a problem. While sending power to the LED's to determine which wire is positive and negative the rear LED stopped working. Not sure why. It flashed for a second and then nothing. The front LED is working just fine. My only thought is the rear LED didn't like reverse polarity but the front LED handled it just fine. I've never had an LED blow from reverse polarity. I pulled the receptacle out and metered 12vdc going to the LED.
I found a bag of assorted color LED's on Amazon that are 12vdc rated so I'm going to experiment w/ replacing the LED, maybe I'll try blue.
Probably blew the LED by putting 12V to it. The majority of logic circuits that light LEDs are 5V. Limit current to 10ma or so, depending on the LED specs, and it will be fine.
Probably blew the LED by putting 12V to it. The majority of logic circuits that light LEDs are 5V. Limit current to 10ma or so, depending on the LED specs, and it will be fine.
This. Too much voltage and no current limiting resistor.
I was able to replace the rear LED and I used a blue one because I think it looks better than the factory yellow
and then I disassembled the front receptacle to replace the LED but turns out it is SMT and I do not have that capability
I find it odd that the rear LED did not have a resistor but the front one does. Maybe the inverter puts out 5 volts for the rear led but sends 12 volts forward because of voltage drop? I have no idea
Last edited by Garbageman 134; Feb 21, 2026 at 01:11 PM.
The rear LED probably has a current limiting resistor as well. That’s pretty standard. Could be SMT on the other side of the board. I have never looked at it.
It's not built into the receptacle. The leads from the LED simply attach to a couple of copper prongs that connect with the power connector. No current limiting resistor in sight
So after watching one video on how to solder smt's I ordered a combination hot air and soldering iron station and some blue smt leds. I figure worst case scenario if I wreck it I can go to a junkyard and get another one
So after watching one video on how to solder smt's I ordered a combination hot air and soldering iron station and some blue smt leds. I figure worst case scenario if I wreck it I can go to a junkyard and get another one
I don’t know how much experience you have with this stuff. Seeing as you just bought the equipment I am assuming little so disregard my suggestions if I am wrong.
Make sure that you also get some flux, low temp SMT solder, and some wicking braid to suck up the old solder if you don’t have them.
Highly recommend that you practice on an old board from something headed for the trash to get the feel for it. Take some components off and put them back on.
Too hot and the traces will come up. Too much air flow and you can blow the component off the board. It is as much art as it is science and you need to develop the feel for it.
I have a fair amount of experience with standard soldering so this will be something new to learn and yes I do plan on practicing on some equipment that is destined for the trash. If I can make this work I have a light bar that mounts to the bumper on my truck and one of the LED strips is dim. I've been told it's because one of the LEDs is shorting so maybe I can figure that out too
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