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I've been using bungee cords for several years to hold my battery in place and recently have been trying to fix it period of pride a rubble rubber type bracket to hold it down and the long rod with hooks and wingnut type and none of them work or fit. What are you all using to secure your battery? I looked online for a Box or A case or something for the battery stock or aftermarket and I can't find anything. Here's a picture of my battery as it is. A picture of the type of bracket you have or a link to something on Amazon or elsewhere would be appreciated
X2 on get the basic one from Wally World or your favorite parts house. #'s match statements.
#1. These internally secured wires to connector can get loose (inside) and cause you to have erratic intermittent elec issues. Especially the amp gauge, ask me how I know this. Use the battery terminal clamp set up like # 3, but make the electrical connections WAY better and cleaner.
#2. That is a great way to see if you cable are corroding on the inside. They do that over time, but you need to black elec tape the over it.
#3. Oh come on now you can do a better job than that. LOL JK Your truck and starting system will appreciate you much better if you cut the wire then solder dip it. Or at least get the insulation all the way up to the clamp bar edge and ALL the wire under the top bracket.
#4. Look in this area of the inner fenderwell for a hole and a OEM nut plate (in that hole) to use the weird OEM 3 bends bracket for that side.
#5. If that slot for the J hook is broken, just drill a hole straight down on the flat edge of the bracket, and hook the J hook there. Or put a threaded eylet in that hole you drilled.
#6. NOT circled. But as a good practice the Positive Wire, or the +, HOT wire should be a RED colored WIRE to help you or some one helping you jump start a truck, prevent the jumper cable connections from getting crossed or connected wrong.
Red='s HOT, BLK ='s ground. Or get the battery connection plastic color coded covers. That way when you take the air filter off to do something and set it on top of the battery, you do not get the ark and spark.... Bad day #1
Bonus. When you get all the elec connections/wiring squared away, and tightened down, put some grease (like basic axle/bearing grease) over the battery terminals to help keep the corrosion down to a minimum. Or use the RED / GREEN colored disks AND some grease. https://www.lmctruck.com/1973-79-for...and-components https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...83_0?rrec=true https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...82_0?rrec=true https://www.walmart.com/ip/190mm-220...cket/699607245 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Tebru-Adj...-SUV/249589299 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Car-Stora...m-GW/720057924
BONUS BONUS what ever you use as a hold down bracket and especially if it is metal, make sure it is tight and stays between the batter top caps. So the battery does not get loose and move around and the bracket does not get grounded out on either batter connector. Bad day #2.
X2 on get the basic one from Wally World or your favorite parts house. #'s match statements.
#1. These internally secured wires to connector can get loose (inside) and cause you to have erratic intermittent elec issues. Especially the amp gauge, ask me how I know this. Use the battery terminal clamp set up like # 3, but make the electrical connections WAY better and cleaner.
#2. That is a great way to see if you cable are corroding on the inside. They do that over time, but you need to black elec tape the over it.
#3. Oh come on now you can do a better job than that. LOL JK Your truck and starting system will appreciate you much better if you cut the wire then solder dip it. Or at least get the insulation all the way up to the clamp bar edge and ALL the wire under the top bracket.
#4. Look in this area of the inner fenderwell for a hole and a OEM nut plate (in that hole) to use the weird OEM 3 bends bracket for that side.
#5. If that slot for the J hook is broken, just drill a hole straight down on the flat edge of the bracket, and hook the J hook there. Or put a threaded eylet in that hole you drilled.
#6. NOT circled. But as a good practice the Positive Wire, or the +, HOT wire should be a RED colored WIRE to help you or some one helping you jump start a truck, prevent the jumper cable connections from getting crossed or connected wrong.
Red='s HOT, BLK ='s ground. Or get the battery connection plastic color coded covers. That way when you take the air filter off to do something and set it on top of the battery, you do not get the ark and spark.... Bad day #1
Bonus. When you get all the elec connections/wiring squared away, and tightened down, put some grease (like basic axle/bearing grease) over the battery terminals to help keep the corrosion down to a minimum. Or use the RED / GREEN colored disks AND some grease. https://www.lmctruck.com/1973-79-for...and-components https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...83_0?rrec=true https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...82_0?rrec=true https://www.walmart.com/ip/190mm-220...cket/699607245 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Tebru-Adj...-SUV/249589299 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Car-Stora...m-GW/720057924
BONUS BONUS what ever you use as a hold down bracket and especially if it is metal, make sure it is tight and stays between the batter top caps. So the battery does not get loose and move around and the bracket does not get grounded out on either batter connector. Bad day #2.
The bracket I am talking about in #4.
I knew you would give the most detailed answer. The only reason I don't just PM you is so others with my truck problems can see your answers. I couldnt find the place to hook the inside rod (4) on the above bracket another guy posted. But didnt really know where to look will try again. I didnt know those bare wires could cause gauge issues, half my gauges dont work including amp. The other skinned cable was from the bungee cords not holding the battery and it falling on the fan a while back. I've only driven this truck maybe 200 miles since I got it, and the brakes are out now. SO I have been procrastinating on alot of things but am trying to get it fixed now. going to change the cables today.
My charges were dropped and my suit will be filed this week so will be able to visit soon if you are still around
The bare wires sticking out the battery terminal besides being pretty bad looking connection do not for the most part cause gauge problems. The battery terminal (in red circle pic #1) is the type that the wire is molded or connected INSIDE the lead connection. And the connection can come loose INSIDE and you will never see it. And that loose connection can cause gauge problems.
I had those exact battery terminal wires types on my blue truck and started to have (not wanting to) start issues. And after checking (touch wiggle cuss) everything it would start. And then I would have instrumentation issues, like the AMP needle would spike once the truck was running. After alot of troubleshooting I had the hood up on a none start day and the under hood light was not on. When I pushed around on the wire going into that terminal, the light comes on and the truck starts. So once the truck is running I ck the AMP gauge (in the middle), then I go pull on the wire a bit and BAM get the pegged gauge. Push it back in, back to normal.
SO IMO they are junk and I will not ever get or use those moulded wire battery connections again. Enough said on that. Now look down inside the small gap between the innerfenderwell and the battery for the little grove in the battery tray to hook the J hook. I bey it is there, you might have to move the batter over to really see it.
X2 on get the basic one from Wally World or your favorite parts house. #'s match statements.
#1. These internally secured wires to connector can get loose (inside) and cause you to have erratic intermittent elec issues. Especially the amp gauge, ask me how I know this. Use the battery terminal clamp set up like # 3, but make the electrical connections WAY better and cleaner.
#2. That is a great way to see if you cable are corroding on the inside. They do that over time, but you need to black elec tape the over it.
#3. Oh come on now you can do a better job than that. LOL JK Your truck and starting system will appreciate you much better if you cut the wire then solder dip it. Or at least get the insulation all the way up to the clamp bar edge and ALL the wire under the top bracket.
#4. Look in this area of the inner fenderwell for a hole and a OEM nut plate (in that hole) to use the weird OEM 3 bends bracket for that side.
#5. If that slot for the J hook is broken, just drill a hole straight down on the flat edge of the bracket, and hook the J hook there. Or put a threaded eylet in that hole you drilled.
#6. NOT circled. But as a good practice the Positive Wire, or the +, HOT wire should be a RED colored WIRE to help you or some one helping you jump start a truck, prevent the jumper cable connections from getting crossed or connected wrong.
Red='s HOT, BLK ='s ground. Or get the battery connection plastic color coded covers. That way when you take the air filter off to do something and set it on top of the battery, you do not get the ark and spark.... Bad day #1
Bonus. When you get all the elec connections/wiring squared away, and tightened down, put some grease (like basic axle/bearing grease) over the battery terminals to help keep the corrosion down to a minimum. Or use the RED / GREEN colored disks AND some grease. https://www.lmctruck.com/1973-79-for...and-components https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...83_0?rrec=true https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...82_0?rrec=true https://www.walmart.com/ip/190mm-220...cket/699607245 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Tebru-Adj...-SUV/249589299 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Car-Stora...m-GW/720057924
BONUS BONUS what ever you use as a hold down bracket and especially if it is metal, make sure it is tight and stays between the batter top caps. So the battery does not get loose and move around and the bracket does not get grounded out on either batter connector. Bad day #2.
The bracket I am talking about in #4.
I followed that link you sent me to the stock bracket and went and Compared it to my truck and apparently I am missing the bottom tray with the lip on it. That's why I cannot hook those brackets around the battery. See photo and image So I guess I will order the whole thing
Yes you have some sort of wrong, different or NO battery tray going on there. And the inner edge that would have the hole for the J hook is completely gone (red box). Worse case you can maybe hook the J hook to the hole (the red arrow is pointing) to for a temp while waiting on the LMC stuff. Good thing LMC is like 3 hrs from Anderson. But if you are getting the whole shebang even better. Bracket #2 should go where the red circle is. Is this the same truck you inherited a long time ago? I am OTR working, but we are planning on having a FTE Mo chapter G2G in May/June time frame. Glad to hear your court stuff got worked out.
I should be able to get to the summer meeting if its close. I didnt realize LMC was close. For what its worth, look at that bent bracket on the lmc catalog. It didnt come on the 79s which is probably why I have that bolt there.
LMC is right north of you a fair bit in Lenexa Ks. Looking at your pics, it looks like you have the leftovers of the OEM battery mount plate. IN RED I see the angled piece that is going to the inner fenderwell connection on the back side near the starter solenoid. Take the piece of metal up on the bottom and see what is under it.
The G2G is planned to be at Alan's in Sparta Mo. So for you Anderson to Spg, then south to Ozark, then east to Sparta. Monster trucks and hopefully a fellow Mo chapter member will have his BBQ food truck there and cator it.
LMC is right north of you a fair bit in Lenexa Ks. Looking at your pics, it looks like you have the leftovers of the OEM battery mount plate. IN RED I see the angled piece that is going to the inner fenderwell connection on the back side near the starter solenoid. Take the piece of metal up on the bottom and see what is under it.
The G2G is planned to be at Alan's in Sparta Mo. So for you Anderson to Spg, then south to Ozark, then east to Sparta. Monster trucks and hopefully a fellow Mo chapter member will have his BBQ food truck there and cator it.
That is not the factory base left over, factory one is stamped with an indention in the center area like the diagram shows. The angled piece in red is included in part number 1 on the diagram it is spot welded together. Old non-sealed batteries rusted these things away like crazy. Factory Style Tray
That is not the factory base left over, factory one is stamped with an indention in the center area like the diagram shows. The angled piece in red is included in part number 1 on the diagram it is spot welded together. Old non-sealed batteries rusted these things away like crazy. Factory Style Tray
Which I also ordered so now I need to delete one. LMC sold the bolts that go with it (at a dollar a piece) and granveyard didnt. LMC was a ten dollars more I hope they are the same part. Shipping was 20 on graveyard and 8 on lmc. total with screws was 56.94 on lmc and 53.99 for just the bracket on graveyard.
