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Looking for some info.
65 F100, 240, 3spd column shift, 2wd, manual brakes
I am interested in swapping to a floor shift 5 speed.
I have read numerous posts on here about this but while some are great with pics, they're missing some details I am curious about. Mainly the measurements. I would prefer to not have to bend the shifter arm to clear the bench seat I am keeping, and I also dont want to lean so far forward that shifting is a PITA.
I have read that a T5 will bolt in as well as a M5OD - however the distance from the bellhousing to the shifter are different on every single one.
So whats a good distance that I dont catch the seat, dont have to mod the shifter handle and dont have to lean into the dash to shift?
There are other T5's for other brands - all different lengths and Im not sure how well any of them apply to this project.
Also looking to keep the linkage stock, not going hydraulic.
If you don’t want to use a hydraulic clutch, then you are down to a modified T5. I’m not aware of anyone who has converted the M5OD(r2) to non hydraulic clutch. You can modify the T5 by replacing the tail housing from an S10 to improve the shifter location. This will move the shifter handle closer to the dash away from the seat. You can do the mod yourself or buy a new T5 already modified from places like American Powertrain. Let us know how things shake out.
The stalk that the shift handle bolts to usually ends up where it causes a problem.
I solved the problem by adding a section of 2”x 3/8” flat stock bolted to the stalk with holes drilled to locate the shift handle on my 67 Ford XL. In my case I needed to use a 6” long section of flat stock which located the straight Hurst shift handle exactly where I needed it.
I your case you may have to start with a Hurst handle and cut and weld an extension to put the **** at a comfortable location. I did this years ago when I had a wide ratio 4 sped top loader in my 68 F 100.
All you need is a custom bent shift lever for the Mustang style T5 with the rearmost shifter position. As shown in the photos, the shifter location is at the rear of the trans cover. I piece of 1/2" x 1" rectangle bent forward near the bottom, and backward near the top clears the bench seat and puts the shifter in a comfortable position within easy reach.
Cost....less than ten bucks and about a half hour's worth of time with a oxy/acetylene torch.
I have seen your stuff come up a lot when I search stuff.
Thank you for the info.
I had to rebuild the 3 speed column and the bottom of the shift tube has a nylon sleeve on it that was damaged. I was able to cut away a sliver and warm it up to mold it back to the shape of the tube, however I figure its only a matter of time before I have issues as the shifter arms will have a little bit of play on the shift tube when the nylon sleeve eventually goes.
Couldn't find a replacement for it so I am figuring on a replacement and might as well have 2 more gears I guess.
I have seen your stuff come up a lot when I search stuff.
Thank you for the info.
I had to rebuild the 3 speed column and the bottom of the shift tube has a nylon sleeve on it that was damaged. I was able to cut away a sliver and warm it up to mold it back to the shape of the tube, however I figure its only a matter of time before I have issues as the shifter arms will have a little bit of play on the shift tube when the nylon sleeve eventually goes.
Couldn't find a replacement for it so I am figuring on a replacement and might as well have 2 more gears I guess.
I could probably make that sleeve from Delrin. Much like nylon and designed for bushings. I'd just need dimensions....or a sample
Ah, maybe if I was going to stay with the 3 speed.(assming I will swap to a 5 speed).
Im assuming the 5 speed will perform better on the freeway. I currently have a 66 Mustang with a 3 speed auto and it does not like 65+ on the freeway. I just thought I would do the work now while the truck is apart. I finished the frame, suspension, brakes and cab floor.
As said the T5 uses a manual clutch based on the bell housing but you have to deal with where the shifter ends up and hitting the seat or to far forward for shifts.
The M5OD being it came out of a truck I would think would not have the shifter issues of seat or forward and if so not be as bad.
But you do have to deal with the hydraulic clutch. I have not seen anyone not go the juice clutch route. I also dont know what way the fork needs to move, forward or back based on where the slave is mounted.
With either I can see the need to deal with the cross member and drive shafts.
So it comes down to what can you get for a trans, the T5 is getting old but you can buy aftermarket I have not heard anything about the M5OD aftermarket but have not looked, and the clutch.
Dave ----
Ah, maybe if I was going to stay with the 3 speed.(assming I will swap to a 5 speed).
Im assuming the 5 speed will perform better on the freeway. I currently have a 66 Mustang with a 3 speed auto and it does not like 65+ on the freeway. I just thought I would do the work now while the truck is apart. I finished the frame, suspension, brakes and cab floor.
I bought my T5 brand new from Summit. I found a few used units locally, but some were high mileage, some were borderline junk for an asking price of 5 to 800 bucks. Add in a rebuild kit, and you're not far off from the price of a complete brand new unit.
With a .63 overdrive 5th, a 3.54 rear gear and 30.5" tires, the motor spins about 1700rpm at 70mph, and about 1500rpm at 60. For me, it was a worthwhile upgrade since I built this truck to road trip it.
I went with a complete hydraulic clutch using a Tilton hyd throwout bearing. Pain in the *** if that fails, but Tilton is a top of the line product.
I made the adapter to mate it to the stock bellhousing....because I could....and I had a chunk of aluminum plate from another project. Being a tightwad at heart, it took some time but saved my a couple hundred bucks.
The end result was worth it. Better fuel economy, less wear on the engine, and a far better driving experience.
My two cents, for what it's worth.
I have the 352 in my 65 so when I decided to upgrade from the 3 on tree I went with the T5's new brother, the TKX 5speed overdrive. Might be overkill for your six, but it's a nice trans. Fully synchro in all forward gears, heavy duty. Anyway Iit arrived with a stock shift cane thst when bolted on normal would hit the seat, when turned around would crash knuckles into the dash
I found both unacceptable.
Ended going to local junkyard and dove into thoer pile-O-shifters until I found something that looked like it would work. Modified one bolt hole and now it sits perfectly by my knee, no interference.
I also Used my stock z-bar linkage to work the clutch.
transmission easily lived through the three year warranty, going on five years now. 2nd clutch. It definitely is strong.
My two cents, for what it's worth.
I have the 352 in my 65 so when I decided to upgrade from the 3 on tree I went with the T5's new brother, the TKX 5speed overdrive. Might be overkill for your six, but it's a nice trans. Fully synchro in all forward gears, heavy duty. Anyway Iit arrived with a stock shift cane thst when bolted on normal would hit the seat, when turned around would crash knuckles into the dash
I found both unacceptable.
Ended going to local junkyard and dove into thoer pile-O-shifters until I found something that looked like it would work. Modified one bolt hole and now it sits perfectly by my knee, no interference.
I also Used my stock z-bar linkage to work the clutch.
transmission easily lived through the three year warranty, going on five years now. 2nd clutch. It definitely is strong.
Do you care to post a picture of the shifter/location?
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, but I only wanted the part where he keeps the factory Z bar and how he used the linkage.
