Oh wow, yours looks great. That looks like it came from the factory, not sure what went wrong with mine but yours is excellent. It rained last night and I went out to my truck to inspect my seals, wing windows are real good n tight, all the other seals seemed great, except for those 2 strips on both doors. Both of them let water drip into my door. Good thing I dont have door speakers to worry about.. I was wondering if maybe theres something I can line the buttom of the doors with to prevent rust buildup from it doing that. I may also look into those seals from elsewhere, pretty upsetting because those were not cheap


Edit: hey Tbear, went looking for information for doing the felt in the original sliding window, and I found a forum you were a part of where you linked a better metal window latch and the felt from summit racing, both of which I will be buying. But I did not find an answer to one of my questions; what holds the metal to the glass? The 4 metal sticks that are on both sides of the glass panes (two of which hold the latch) are they just stuck to the glass with clear silicone..? Theres black stuff mushed into them and I can't tell if it was silicone 50 years ago or what it is. They do not stick to the glass anymore if I take a turn they just fall off and fly around the cab its quite terrifying actually.

 

Thank you, now you know why I thought you were talking about under the vent glass but above the mirror bracket. I made the extra polished base plates under the mirror mounts to spread load as mirrors are swung in or out, is a rubber gasket under them too. The mirror bolts thread into a bar in the door with nuts welded to it, I didn't use threaded nut-serts there.

I found on Amazon,

silicone rubber speaker shields

silicone rubber speaker shields

(that's a link) that fit my round speakers, they get sandwiched between the speaker back and the door hole metal. One slit in the lower part let them conform, and the back where the magnet is is open so wire comes out. There's plenty to cut off, but regular scissors work really nice. I did not use the rear baffles, just something fall when the glue got old I figured.

Many years ago when I bought new doors my OEM doors already had rust down low where moisture got into the lower seams, so my new doors got a good inside cleaning, brushed on seam sealer, and paint. After my painter painted them inside (primed the outside too) so I could swap them onto the truck in '22, I added a last good covering of brush on Iron Armor bed liner from HF., keep those drains OPEN. Those aniti rattle strips just pad the glass, they never were intended to stop water.

The metal edging for the sliders .... mine too would fall out once upon a time. I remember taking them and cleaning all the old glue out inside the groove, using a tool made from a small screw driver. I cleaned the glass too, used a razor to scrape it after spraying window cleaner on the glass, and I think I used a glue (urethane type as I recall) meant to glue emblems on a car body to fill the grooves putting them back. I first set the pieces in place and taped the glass at the edge of the metal, then added the glue in the groove and put them back, then after cured I run a blade along the metal edge to cut the squished out glue, then just pull the tape. I used the sliders a lot when had a shell, it also had a slider. A few years ago, I realized I never used it as a slider anymore, and so I sealed them shut with silicone, then tinted them. I can unseal them though, a razor would do it.

 

Oh yeah I'd definitely keep the drains open but those strips shouldn't let a ton of water in, those gaps are bigger than they should be. The old ones kept water out pretty well but the felt was all crumbling so they had to go. Would you happen to know what held the original sliding window together? As in the 4 metal posts that connect to the 2 glass panes, what kept them on the panes?

 

Not sure on what was originaly used. Steel has a suggestion.

Steele Rubber Products - 3M Urethane Adhesive | Steele Rubber Products

 

Re the white plastic end of the 1/4 window handle, if missing or not pulling window tight I found placing the cap off a toothpaste tube works, there are varied shapes to different brands usually one will snuggly fit.
Solved the whistling wind noise for me at highway speeds and doesn't looking glaringly obvious.

regards Ross

 

So i bought new lower strips from Bronco Graveyard because i was extremely displeased with the ones from Steele Rubber. These ones are almost perfect. There is a weird gap on the end closest to the door handle but otherwise these sit at the correct height and (besides that one gap) look factory. Rubber feels good too. Much better than the overpriced junk from Steele

 

There was a clip in that curve section that gave me fits, but I finally got it seated.

 

Yeah I noticed the clip on the end wasn't curved with the hole in the door whereas the Steele one did have a curved clip with that hole, but the whole thing didnt hold worth a damn. What was your fix? Did you just pull the clip out and stab it back in at an angle? Haven't done my driver side yet as my hinge pin is bad and the door digs into the fender when I open it

 

I used a pair of small needle nose pliars to grab and point the clips giving me fits, into the holes. I had more room with the glass all the way down. It finally stayed.

 

And by glass all the way down do you mean simply rolled down or removed from the assembly and set in the bottom of the door? I would assume it'd be harder getting at the other side of the clip with the glass in on the bearing

 

I didn't remove the glass to work at pressing the clips in. I just rolled the glass all the way down.

I had had the glass, etc all out swapping doors, put my new stuff and stuff to be reused in the new doors, but some of those clips gave me a fight after I had it all together. Maybe I didn't have them all the way in? With the glass in place just rolled down, it gets tight if the clips aren't pressed all the way in, likely leading to minor scratching of the paint at the holes, but it's doable. Those clips just pop in the holes, no need or use to get on the other side of them.

 

Hm. All of the clips are pushed in just fine the entire seal is perfect its just that one edge where theres a gap..guess I'll just have to live with it, still way better than the junk from steele