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At idle the VGT % remains at 85 and drops during acceleration....is this correct?
I think my 10yo KC stage II is in need of a refresh, it has never been cleaned or gone through.
Like most of you that are under the hood all the time, you can recognize the slightest change in sounds etc. Yesterday I was pulling in my driveway and the engine tone changed from the standard whistle to a throaty sound I found peculiar.
This morning I went to the store and noticed the same sound for a second and then back to normal, during that time I had minimal boost. I popped the hood and checked the boost gauge hose and the MAP sensor hose and since they're both new they were exactly where they were supposed to be.
Got on the road and jumped on it, boost back to normal. Seems to be ok now but I am wondering if the vanes and unison ring are in need of attention. I'll check the EBP tube and sensor but I am guessing I will find it to be ok.
Yes, depending on the tune.
My 04 is at about 65% idle. The only time it goes to 85% is when the ring gets stuck. When that happens it stays at 85% no matter what you do, but sometimes 'breaks free'.
My 05 sits at 85% at idle and drops as soon as you touch the accelerator.
I have gearhead's unlimited tow in the truck. I was watching Diesel Ron's video and he mentioned that if you have a straight piped vehicle with no CAT 85% at idle is common.
Unfortunately the turbo is most likely coming out because of the damn BD up-pipes I installed a few months ago. The bellows contacts the stud on the firewall and I need to relieve that area or remove it and re-fasten the coolant hard line. When I put it together, normally I am good at checking that stuff but since i wrapped the bellows and up-pipes with titanium wrap, I could not see it clearly until I ran it. Only then did I hear a weird noise and that is it. Another guy on here posted the same thing, but I'd already installed it by then.
I am still pissed about the BD up-pipes. Other than that the pipes and bellows is awesome.
I will keep an eye on the turbo function over the next few days and see what happens with its function.
I've never tested the solenoid. How do you go about doing this?
I think the common test is to unplug it while running and see if the turbo sweeps. If nothing happens, measure resistance. If it tests open its bad. I pulled mine and put 12v to it, it clicked indicating it was at least doing something.
Mine wound up being a bad plug, I probably cracked it when I had the turbo out for other reasons. A new pigtail and it works great now.
There is a test you can do with a ford IDS scantool, I'm not sure if forscan or my snap on scan tool has that function.
For now my plan remains the same, remove the turbo to clean and inspect and fix that damn stud contact area I spoke about. I have a new unison ring just incase it is worn at the actuator like most do. The turbo has been flawless since day 1, but I am approaching the 10 yr/70k mile mark without cleaning/inspection. The turbo is exercised and asked to perform often and has done so for years.
For now it has not done it since and the readings I took so far (idle):
VGT- 85% at idle and decreases as the acc pedal is pushed based on RPM so the unison ring/vanes are moving
EBP-13.7-14.5 psi
MAP- 12.5-12.7 psi
BARO- 12.5-12.7 psi
I'll pull the EBP tube and check it but it was cleaned a while back
So far I believe the readings are within spec except for EBP, but pretty close to the others.
It's important to understand the the VGT is desired, not actual.
Like the IPR... but the IPR has ICP to monitor if it's being effective. I believe the ECU uses MAP in the same fashion, modify VGT to get desired MAP.
I'm just speculating about that.
From what I've seen the PCM looks at EBP to trim the VGT%. In Forscan you can pull up EBP desired. My 06 is 3.4psi EBP cold and drops to 2.4psi EBP hot. I can watch the VGT% go up and down at hot idle trying to maintain it. VGT is usually in the 68-75% range. Depends on EGT as well as the truck cools off it needs a higher VGT% to maintain it. But I'm 100% stock.
Note that you have to pull up the "psi gauge" not absolute which is an option in Forscan. It will subtract the atmospheric pressure AKA Baro (14.7psi at sea level) from the absolute reading. The values you have above are absolute, so you need to subtract Baro (12.5-12.7psi).
Tuning, exhaust, etc I think changes this so you might be fine.