Solid Axle to TTB?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Carnation, Wah
t
wild wild west...
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 291
Likes: 85
From: Acton, CA
I would not be surprised if it just bolted directly in.
Looking at Torqueking’s website, they do not differentiate - the parts are all listed for 1980 through 1997, for the D44 and D50 TTB.
Take a good look at the engine cross members and make sure they are the same and that it is drilled for the pivot brackets. If not, locating them would probably be the biggest job.
Pitman arm will be different.
Steering components. They are different. Make sure you get those from the donor.
Front drive shaft. If you still have the one from the D60, it may work fine. Going the other way, most times it is recommended to replace the F250 d/s with a donor from the F350 / D60.
Transfer case yoke if replacing the front driveshaft. They are different.
Front sway bar, different mounts. To the front bolt in cross members, I can see it there in the picture.
Leaf springs. Although, you would gain some real lift from those F350 springs, they say they are susceptible to cracking from the twisting motion of the TTB arc of travel. You’ll also have to deal with drop brackets, not the stock pivot brackets, for alignment.
Rear axle lift blocks. F350 = 4.25”. F250 = 2”. You may have to change those out if using the TTB. The TTB will sit lower than the D60.
If using the bullnose truck, bring the whole truck home if you can. If not Rob everything related out if. Transfercase, leaf springs, pivot brackets, steering gear box, sway bar and mounts and cross member bracket, rear lift blocks and axle.
Cost - Much cheaper to find a D50 TTB than a D60. $3k you mention would be on the cheap today for a D60. A beat up rusty bare axle today is selling for $800. Good ones are listed now for $1,450 - $1,850 usd, as removed, still requiring a complete disassembly and rebuild. (If by chance you do- Have a good look at the RH u bolt plate pad, it is welded to the axle. Twice now I’ve seen them packed with dirt and rusting out, requiring replacement.) Assuming you can get the whole TTB setup on the cheap, it’ll be cheaper than buying and rebuilding a 60. If the 44/50 TTB needs rebuilding, keep in mind it can get expensive as well. All depends on the donor you have lined up, and what you want to end up with when you’re done.
EDIT: Just re read your post, I didn’t realize the frame was shortened. I’d also want to be doing something with those frame welds. Plating them, and probably grinding down the welds and re welding, I see holes in the welds.
I would probably be pretty limited in what I’d be willing to spend on this as well. If I think of anything to add, I’ll come back and edit the above list.
Don’t forget brakes as well.. No matter what you go with, unless it is right there locally, complete, usable and cheap, it will be expensive today to replace the entire front end from scratch.
Looking at Torqueking’s website, they do not differentiate - the parts are all listed for 1980 through 1997, for the D44 and D50 TTB.
Take a good look at the engine cross members and make sure they are the same and that it is drilled for the pivot brackets. If not, locating them would probably be the biggest job.
Pitman arm will be different.
Steering components. They are different. Make sure you get those from the donor.
Front drive shaft. If you still have the one from the D60, it may work fine. Going the other way, most times it is recommended to replace the F250 d/s with a donor from the F350 / D60.
Transfer case yoke if replacing the front driveshaft. They are different.
Front sway bar, different mounts. To the front bolt in cross members, I can see it there in the picture.
Leaf springs. Although, you would gain some real lift from those F350 springs, they say they are susceptible to cracking from the twisting motion of the TTB arc of travel. You’ll also have to deal with drop brackets, not the stock pivot brackets, for alignment.
Rear axle lift blocks. F350 = 4.25”. F250 = 2”. You may have to change those out if using the TTB. The TTB will sit lower than the D60.
If using the bullnose truck, bring the whole truck home if you can. If not Rob everything related out if. Transfercase, leaf springs, pivot brackets, steering gear box, sway bar and mounts and cross member bracket, rear lift blocks and axle.
Cost - Much cheaper to find a D50 TTB than a D60. $3k you mention would be on the cheap today for a D60. A beat up rusty bare axle today is selling for $800. Good ones are listed now for $1,450 - $1,850 usd, as removed, still requiring a complete disassembly and rebuild. (If by chance you do- Have a good look at the RH u bolt plate pad, it is welded to the axle. Twice now I’ve seen them packed with dirt and rusting out, requiring replacement.) Assuming you can get the whole TTB setup on the cheap, it’ll be cheaper than buying and rebuilding a 60. If the 44/50 TTB needs rebuilding, keep in mind it can get expensive as well. All depends on the donor you have lined up, and what you want to end up with when you’re done.
EDIT: Just re read your post, I didn’t realize the frame was shortened. I’d also want to be doing something with those frame welds. Plating them, and probably grinding down the welds and re welding, I see holes in the welds.
I would probably be pretty limited in what I’d be willing to spend on this as well. If I think of anything to add, I’ll come back and edit the above list.
Don’t forget brakes as well.. No matter what you go with, unless it is right there locally, complete, usable and cheap, it will be expensive today to replace the entire front end from scratch.
I plan on taking the 6.9 IDI, the 4 speed, and the T-Case out of the bullnose as well.
You may ask me why I dont just frame swap this truck well I dont have a good way to lift the service bed and body off of the bricknose frame.
I also believe the F350 Bricknose frame should be stronger. I was already planning on boxing the frame in where they shortened it.
Thats interesting about the front springs. Guess ill have to take the ones from the bullnose as well.
I believe it already has the 2.25" lift blocks in the rear.
Ill take a good look at that bolt plate pad before I install the stuff for sure. It is a California pickup so it shouldnt be to bad but it has lived in the forest for the past 20 years or better.
Here is the Bullnose I speak of.
can it be dont? yes. is it worth it? no.
in the long run, it would be cheaper to find the proper D-60 and just stuff it under there.
to put a D-50 IFS setup in, you will need all the IFS steering components, IFS springs, IFS mount drop bracket, and IFS pitman arm. and if it has any lift at all you will have to figure out what it is and match it to get the front alignment rite. otherwise you will destroy front tires REAL quick
in the long run, it would be cheaper to find the proper D-60 and just stuff it under there.
to put a D-50 IFS setup in, you will need all the IFS steering components, IFS springs, IFS mount drop bracket, and IFS pitman arm. and if it has any lift at all you will have to figure out what it is and match it to get the front alignment rite. otherwise you will destroy front tires REAL quick
Good question ive never had any of my vehicles inspected other than being vin verified cause they havnt been registered in 40 years.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 17,499
Likes: 2,773
From: Northern Ontario
Off topic, Id be real cautious about that frame…
That box on the bullnose has seen some better days!
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,564
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
F250 and F350 4X4 diesels and 460 powered trucks use the same frame.
when new my 88 and 89 diesel 4X4 F350 single cab trucks were marked 250-350 diesel/7.5 on the driver side rear of the frame
when new my 88 and 89 diesel 4X4 F350 single cab trucks were marked 250-350 diesel/7.5 on the driver side rear of the frame
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 17,499
Likes: 2,773
From: Northern Ontario
Frames are the same 250 vs 350, engine cross members and mounts differ.
The bullnose frame may be weight relieved. No mention of the year. It does have the letters on the hood, it’s very possible.
The bullnose frame may be weight relieved. No mention of the year. It does have the letters on the hood, it’s very possible.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 291
Likes: 85
From: Acton, CA
Dude I have no idea how they beat that bed up that badly. They also have a 70 C20 that has a bed thats bashed just like that one. Funny enough the Bullnose and the C20 are only about 20' from each other.
Since they use the same frame do you think it would be worth putting the body and service bed on the bullnoses chassis?
Unless if the service bed is weird it should be 133" wb so the Bullnose chassis should be the right length for putting the body and bed on.
I have no intentions of making this thing solid axle and to be quite honest I might put some money aside for a solo motorsports coilover conversion for the TTB.
Ahh thats pretty neat!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 1,697
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I believe he's referring to the "Swiss cheese" frames briefly used (1981?)
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 291
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From: Acton, CA
Ahh, hopefully not if I might swap stuff over to its frame. Any idea how to identify this frame?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2022
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To be honest I don't know. It was the first thing that came to mind when, "weight relieved" frames were mentioned.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 17,499
Likes: 2,773
From: Northern Ontario
Iirc, it was only the 1980, and early 1981 models of F250 that had them. I don’t know about the 350.
I know nothing about 150’s and Broncos, I’ve heard they had them for a couple of yrs.
Pictures in the threads.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...questions.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...that-weak.html
I know nothing about 150’s and Broncos, I’ve heard they had them for a couple of yrs.
Pictures in the threads.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...questions.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...that-weak.html
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 291
Likes: 85
From: Acton, CA
I see, well I could take a look at that Bullnoses frame whenever I go up there next and see if it has those big ol holes. Ill have to measure the service bed from the front the to middle of the wheelwell and compare it to a normal bed and see if theyre the same so I could in theory swap the body and bed onto the bullnose frame. Im thinking that would probably be easier than swapping the TTB, 6.9, 4 speed, and rear axle onto the bricknoses frame thats been shortened.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 17,499
Likes: 2,773
From: Northern Ontario
Not to throw a wrench in… but, you’ll will probably have to relocate the body mounts on the frame, as they did on the other frame to mount the dent body.
You’ll have a mix of three different generations of trucks going, not that it can’t be done… but…
You’ll have a mix of three different generations of trucks going, not that it can’t be done… but…