So, the Ford Upfitter Integration System (UIS, aka Vehicle Integration System or VIS) seems to be a wild herring that Ford roped us into trying, only to find that no one will do the programming to make the system work. Unfortunatley, the UIS/VIS seems to be a deadend.

As such, I am looking for alternatives and have been researching Bluetooth Wireless Switch panels. The "controller" sits almost anywhere in the truck, and is controlled over Bluetooth by the "switch panel". Apparently the Jeepsters, OHV'ers, and others are adopting these things.

Most are limited to four, six, or eight circuits, although one place will do twelve circuits. With those you mount a separate "switch panel" where you can have semi-custom labels and a fairly broad selection of icons for each switch.

Then I found the Garmin PowerSwitch. It controls six circuits, but you can daisy chain up to four of the devices and control a total of 24 circuits. The intriguing part is that it is supposed to integrate with Apple CarPlay (or its Android equivalent) and display the switches on your dash infotainment screen. Each circuit can carry 30 amps; that's a pretty decent load. I'm still learning about it, but it sounds like it also has the ability to accept two input circuits and, based on those inputs, switch one or more output circuits.

Has anyone tried any of these systems?

 

Subscribing. I'm looking at newer trucks and it is surprising how many don't have upfitter switches.

 

That is an interesting product. Garmin is known for innovative products and is tops in customer support. I don't have any experience with the PowerSwitch but do have experience with other Garmin products.

Although each output can be up to 30 amps, it is limited to 100 amps total output. The unit is intended to be mounted close to the battery and comes with a 34", 4AWG power cable. Garmin says the cable can be lengthened with the appropriate larger gage cable. The flexibility Garmin provides for controlling the outputs is significant.

The only downside is you have to have the phone with you in the truck to operate the switch. That would seem to be a minor issue in today's world.

 

That was my concern as well until I saw that it integrates with the dash infotainment system via CarPlay, and they also have 5", 6", 7" and 8" GPS units that can control it. The GPS units run on re-chargeable batteries or can be hard wired with a power cord.

 

Just want to follow up on this old thread...

The Garmin PowerSwitch is the real deal. It works very well, is reliable and consistent. This is not some Chinese junk. I use it in an Expedition for emergency lighting and horn selection.

There are a couple of notes that aren't mentioned in literature or reviews: When using Sync to operate the switch, a "momentary" setting of the switch doesn't work. It must toggle on and off. And the Sync graphics aren't as pretty as the graphics displayed on the phone. The circuits are self limiting and handle 30 amps each; they need no fuses. One in-line 125 amp fuse comes installed in the battery cable.

This is real nice, and will save you hours of harness building, dashboard drilling and relay wiring.

 

That does look like a nice, easy alternative to retrofitting the OEM upfitter switches. Lots of ideas swimming around.
Alternative: Upfitter Switch Retrofit

 

I currently run a amazon switch relay but am going to upgrade to the Diode Dynamics D switch. I like the dedicated backlight bus bar and that it has 8 outputs (4 15amp and 4 30 amp and the 1 back light if you count that). It also has a hard wired switch that is a plus for me. I will probably find someone that makes an overhead mount for the switch panel so it goes next to my interior aux switches. You can still wire your aux switches as triggers into the diode but I will probably use their switch panel for my lights only, and save my aux switches for my compressor, winch, Starlink, etc. I actually came here to search how people were mounting the wiring boxes in the engine compartment and found this thread.

 

I've found two mounting brackets for Garmin hub which is about an inch smaller than the Diode one, on my Expedition. Two type of brackets came up. One mounts to the lip above the heater box and puts the hub above the computer's plugs. The other is the Diode Dynamics bracket that spans from the coolant reservoir screw to the corner of the battery box. I think the Garmin, at least could also mount on the fender wall behind the battery or on the top of the fuse box. Any other suggestions out there?

 

Older thread, I know.

https://www.4x4spod.com/vehicle-hub/trucks/

S-pod makes some great products, all US made.

 

They do make some great stuff, but for that money I think I'll add the OEM upfitter switches.

Upfitter Install/Retrofit

 

For the same money, the Diode Dynamics D-Switch offers more functions and abilities, albeit it's not OEM. However, it has 4 sensor/trigger wires that allow OEM-type programming.... For example, whenever the vehicle is put into reverse do __________, or whenever hazards are triggered do __________. It's actually more powerful a tool than OEM switches and can control more than OEM switches for the same money.

 

Have you used the D switch? I still haven’t pulled the trigger but as soon as I figure out where I’m mounting it and find a bracket I’ll mount it by my upfitters I’m in.

 

Absolutely right about the D-Switch. Plenty of great features that the Garmin does not provide. And it's made in USA.

The only advantages the Garmin has is that you can control everything from an Android or ApplePlay screen on your Sync3 or Sync4, so you don't need switches.

And there is no wire connection through the firewall. The Garmin is from Taiwan.

 

I have the D-Switch in a Jeep and love it. Because of the sensor/trigger wires it basically does everything I want, without using the actual switch panel. Obviously, having the switch panel and 8 programmable switches is awesome, but not nearly as do or die because of the programming/integration abilities of the sensor/trigger wires. It's been one of my favorite upgrades of all time in any vehicle.

So, the D-Switch switch has an app, which connects to it via Bluetooth, which allows several things to occur:

-Android Auto Integration works
-The actual physical switch panel need not cross the firewall or be installed in the cabin.
-You can control everything via either Android Auto or your phone's screen. I was worried about lag vs the physical switches (which are in my cabin) and there's no real difference at all.
-The Bluetooth control also means you can activate/deactivate the accessories from outside the vehicle. So rear bumper lights can be turned off/on as needed without accessing the cabin, etc, etc...

I'm happy to answer additional questions, but it's certainly a great device that does far more than it's competitors.

 

So the D-Switch will work with ApplePlay on Sync 4 without a separate keyboard? So no wires are necessary into the cab?

Wish I had known that.