I'm retired now, but use to have some years ago on my car & 6.0 psd but the place folded. I know there's a whole lot of knowledgeable & talented DIYers that bought them or built them. Please let me know where I can get one or make one etc for my 2015, F350 with 39.7 k miles. I maybe drive it once a month & hate dry-starts. Thanks for any help/information.

 

If you maybe drive your truck once a month, you'll never get your ROI on your investment on a preluber. Having said that, the oil filter anti drain back valve holds back a lot of oil so I'm not sure there's really a need for one of these.

My $0.02 worth

 

Similar thread with some options.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-preluber.html

I don't see a need either.

 

I have some interest in one for my truck, but haven't done much research. @speakerfritz started the thread linked above, if he gets intrested enough I expect a wealth of information to come in that thread. He is good at researching things like this.

 

status on my prelube project

1. I found a pre-lube attachment for my amsoil dual by pass filter on ebay but the seller would not move on the price and snice he said it was from a pallet auction...i dont know if the item was a defective return or what. so thats a dead end.

2. I looked into the cylinder type devices that charge when you run and discharge when you key on....they/re out there at hefty prices...pro is you can set it up with just one line coming off a sensor port....con..and this happened to me on a prior turck....its hard to tell if the seloniod that controls the key on feed is burnt out...another con...it takes a lot of space...large thermost size devices.

3. so that leaves the dc motor on key on....feed line from pan side port.....goes to dc gear pump....out from dc gear pump gose to sensor port. either manually switch it on using upfitter switch....or rig it up to always come on if there is less than 10 psi....then once 10 psi is reached...it shuts off. a check valve on the dc out port is needed to prevent the engines mechanical oil pump from reverse spining the dc pump which would then become a source of oil psi loss. pro is that the dc motor is a lot smaller than the cylinder type device....con is that you need a pan feed port as well as the return point to a pressure port.

im going to go with number 3, and use a high temp metal gear pump. impeller type pumps are mostly made of plastic and cant handle the heat.

it will be many months before I move this forward...have a luandry list of catch and redue projects.

 

 

Thank you for your input. Have a good one.

 

Thanks for you help. I did see that video. I've seen those oil filter adapter plates but didn't know is any were large enough for the 6.7 oil volume.

 

you dont need an adapter plate to either run an oil preluber or a by pass filter.....you can just tap a sensor port for the feed to the engine and either use an oil pan npt port...or convert your existing drain plug to a banjo male fitting. the banjo male fitting has a bolt that takes the place of your oil drain plug...the bolt has a hole in the middle of it....then a fitting with a large hole one one end and male npt on the other is installed....you can then connect an oil line to the male npt....the magic is to match thread sizes of the drain plug and the male npt and femal hose npt.



for a preluber the banjo bolt conversion is the feed line....the return is a tee fitting on a oil sensor port.

for a by pass filter the banjo bolt conversion is the return line and the feed line to the filter is from the tee fitting on a sensor port


threaded version os the banjo bolt female/male eyelet is better than barbed.

 

option 3. For the win
Ease of operation
10 psi switch, have it part of prestart stuff
Amp load of pump?

I had a surplus army tank, metal gear fuel pump
That boosted fuel pressure during start
Then shut down after 30 seconds
it had a duty cycle of 30 seconds on, 2 minutes off, 30 on, 2 off until 3rd run. 30 on 4 off
It drew 16 amps of 12 volt power
And would hold 60 psi
About as big as big as a can of coke
it had #4 fittings
might look at drmo sales or heck Google
it was perfect for what it was tasked to do in my world. This was long before we had the internet as our friend🤣
I imagine it would be an easy find now days
boom
https://setrabusa.com/

 

The one in your photo draws less than 3 amps ….thats probally not startup amps


the on in your photo is 250f max temp…I would go with a higher temp rating

 

Excellent info & pictures. You gave me some ideas. Thank you!

 

Dave's Auto on YT seemed to be working on something to keep oil in the engine by adding an anti-drain back valve in the pickup tube. I think that was about a year ago.

 

The best way to get her pre-lubed is to sti.. er, oh wait, wrong forum.


I recall seeing something somewhere that had an electric pump that would suck oil from the pan and pump it back into the block above the check valve so it moved volume at low pressure.

 

yup they have them in various temps etc
250 is pretty..high
It might not be an issue using pump at pre start
then once its shut down.
no hot oil is running through????
Definitely not mount pump near exhaust

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...f?v=1632944930
looks like apm load is correct, they recommend a 5 amp fuse