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Oh man .... I keep meaning to build me one of those. I actually have a longish narrow piece of carpeted plywood that was used for a dog ramp, it would be perfect.
Since the tail lights are sharing the ground with the reverse lights and the tail lights are working; am I wrong to rule out a ground issue on those lights in particular.
I order new sockets all around for the bumper park lights both tail sockets and the reverse sockets. I’ll put those in when they get here so o can rule out any issues with the socket wiring. They were all a little brittle and I know some have issues with connection when the wires are tilted the wrong way.
ordered a new NSS neutral safety switch for good measure to have one to test against at the very least.
Since the tail lights are sharing the ground with the reverse lights and the tail lights are working; am I wrong to rule out a ground issue on those lights in particular.
even though both lights share the same ground termination point, each light has its own path to that ground via the wiring and sockets...so yes, it is wrong to rule out a ground issue...
To summarize, the path is fuse-back up switch-flasher-instrument cluster-TSS-rear light harness-rear light bulbs.
Back up lights work = OK from fuse panel Wipers work = OK from splice with wipers Power at blue wire on column connector = OK from flasher and instrument cluster Power at rear harness, OK from turn signal switch
So if your hazards, wipers and back up lights work, then the problem exists between the T/S flasher and the tail lights. If you have power to the blue wire on the steering column connector, your problem exists between the turn signal switch and the tail lights. If you have power to the green and yellow/black wires on 5 prong connector where all your rear lighting is joined, then your problem is in the harness/turn signal filament in the bulb. Follow me?
This post is from another thread but base on the way the power routes the turn signals could be affected by the reverse lights issue.
I didn't go find that thread for the "rest of the story", but either way the statement about the path is wrong...the backup light circuit does not go through a flasher or the cluster.
That’s good to know, I have two separate issues then. The revers do t come on and the turn signals are not working but the turn signal switch is cutting power from the tail lights while that brakes are applied which seems correct.
the turn signal switch doesn't cut power to the tail light filament, only the brake light filament...BUT they share the same socket/ground...
got it, that is what I was attempting to convey. I re-grounded all four corners just to be sure the grill park lights and the tail and reverse grounds were good. Still no reverse lights yet. I’m at a loss on why the turn signals won’t turn on when activated. Tuesdays my new circuit tester/activator shows up. I’ll pull the dash bezel tomorrow to see what I can see in there. I’m wondering if there isn’t some creative wiring going on that I just can’t see from below.
Most of the time a no TS light issue is a bad ground/socket back on the bed or a bad TS switch in the steering column. Checked fuses?
Reverse light are controlled by the NSS (AKA the safety neutral start switch) on the side of the trans. When the column shifter is moved to R, via the shift linkage and the NSS on the side of the trans, the reverse light are turned on.
Tail light intensity is normal and running lights all turn on when the light **** is at half pull...........
Try that while a helper is stepping on the brake.
Somewhere I saw mention of grounds and reverse lights & tail lights sharing. They are separate sockets, separate ground wires, but maybe go to same ground screw.
Somewhere I saw mention of grounds and reverse lights & tail lights sharing. They are separate sockets, separate ground wires, but maybe go to same ground screw.
Thanks, I wedged the break switch in the on position and checked the lights, all seemed good as I moved through the operations.
Thank you! Pulling the dash bezel and cluster is not what I want to do. I have a suspicion that there’s some creative wiring at the very least for the cigarette lighter. Also at some point someone put in a dealer installed ac system that is not functional.
The closer I look the more I see. By the end of this I may have rewired or traced every line lol.
I have a new NSS on order, my truck has it at the base of the column. I didn’t look at the transmission… my assumption is that there wouldn’t be both… I’m sure stranger things have happened. I’ll double check though.
what photos can I provide that would help if any at all?
Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Most of the time a no TS light issue is a bad ground/socket back on the bed or a bad TS switch in the steering column. Checked fuses?
Reverse light are controlled by the NSS (AKA the safety neutral start switch) on the side of the trans. When the column shifter is moved to R, via the shift linkage and the NSS on the side of the trans, the reverse light are turned on.
Yes I see the underside of the dash, top of the steering column NSS now. That is what turns on and off the reverse lights and tells the truck it is in Park or Neutral and can start. Sorry for the other pic of the 78/79 one on the side of the trans. The single jumper in the engine compartment is a good thing. Why is explained below.
Here is the NSS and reverse light by pass for a manual trans. The reverse lights are triggered by a switch threaded into the trans top cover.
A little talk about that single and 4 wire jumper by a fellow FTE member.
"When the trucks came with a manual trans, there was a dummy plug used to bypass the NSS switch. I've never been able to come up with a part number for the dummy plug. To bypass the automatic set up: Unplug the switch and discard or ignore. There are four wires in the harness plug, two each, red w/ blue trace and black w/ red trace. Run a jumper between the red/blue and red/blue, do the same for the black/red. That completely bypasses the NSS switch. Your truck will now start and the back-up lights will be permanently on. Now on to the backup lights.In the engine compartment is a little U shaped jumper wire. It'll be located on the drivers side splash pan, just in front of the firewall where the wiring harness comes through. Unplug the little jumper, this will shut off the back up lights. There should be a back up light switch on the trans cover. Run two wires from the switch to the two wires that were jumped. This will get your back up lights working again.
Just a note, you could make a jumper plug out of the NSS. Cut the switch off the harness and splice the two pairs of wires. I just hate to cut these switches up. New, they're getting pricey. Here's the little jumper in the engine compartment. EDIT: If you don't care about the back up lights, just jumper the red w/ blue trace wires. This will by pass the NSS but the back up lights won't work."
So if the truck IS starting as it should, then I would not suspect the NSS, if you get to messing with it (FYI the mount hdwr for the switch is VERY short and strip easy). You might end up with another problem. Here is how the metal should be on the plastic body switch pin.
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