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I'd like to start a thread on how to replace the 7.3 long block in the 2020+ super duty trucks. I'm sure many of us are nearly or already out of warranty and are willing to take on this sort of task when the need arises. It would be nice to compile all the helpful information into one place. Please try to keep this thread focused on the task of replacing the long block and keep discussions of why it's being replaced, or if it should be replaced, in a separate discussion.
If we get some helpful replies, I'll try to compile everything in this first post.
Things I'd like to hear about.
I assume it's possible to pull the engine without pulling the cab? What are the pros and cons of pulling the cab? Some of us won't have the means to lift the cab so tips for doing the job with the cab in place will be necessary.
Any helpful videos or other posts that already cover some of these things?
What tools will be required beyond typical hand tools?
Wrench to remove cooling fan?
Engine lift
Torque wrench?
...?
What supplies are necessary?
Coolant
Oil + Filter
Which gaskets should be replaced?
Share any helpful part numbers
What's the most difficult part or things that the typical shade tree mechanic would have issues with?
What parts need to be swapped over from the stock Ford long block from your old engine?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and keeping this thread focused.
I have admittedly never done this job on a 2020+ 7.3L superduty, but I was a lead fleet tech for 30 years, so here are my two cents. I think that it would be a lot easier to lift the cab to do this job provided you have access to a lift. I would also add if you are doing the short block yourself, I would spend the money to put a set of good quality lifers (like Johnsons) in before you bolt the heads down. It might also be a good idea to have the cylinder heads cleaned gone over and a good quality fresh valve job done on the heads, especially if it's a high milage engine or a failed engine. One last point if this is a failed engine make sure you clean all parts well especially the oil pan.
Ive entertained this thought many times since losing an engine and that truck being out of warranty on the second engine. I have at my disposal a 15 ton drive on scissor lift and an overhead hoist. Put the truck up to disconnect driveshaft and back off the transmission a tad then bring it down and remove the hood so the engine can come straight up. May possibly remove the front clip just to not scratch/dent anything and be easier to pull engine fully dressed.
Tools are TBD if I ever need to do this but doesn't look like anything out of the norm for a domestic V8. I did just recently sell the truck with 2nd engine and my other three are still under warranty.
If these trucks make you money, I don't think the learning curve is worth the effort. Now if you have plenty of time and are not worried how long the truck is down, then rock on and learn.
Ive entertained this thought many times since losing an engine and that truck being out of warranty on the second engine. I have at my disposal a 15 ton drive on scissor lift and an overhead hoist. Put the truck up to disconnect driveshaft and back off the transmission a tad then bring it down and remove the hood so the engine can come straight up. May possibly remove the front clip just to not scratch/dent anything and be easier to pull engine fully dressed.
Tools are TBD if I ever need to do this but doesn't look like anything out of the norm for a domestic V8. I did just recently sell the truck with 2nd engine and my other three are still under warranty.
The problem with the superduty platform is the front clip is not removable. the outer front fenders are, but the inner fenders are part of the cab and can't be removed. Ford designed the superduty to have cab and front clip to be removed as an assembly to do an engine change.
The problem with the superduty platform is the front clip is not removable. the outer front fenders are, but the inner fenders are part of the cab and can't be removed. Ford designed the superduty to have cab and front clip to be removed as an assembly to do an engine change.
It doesn't open up entirely like the E series but getting the header panel and radiator out of the way allowed enough room to maneuver and pull fully dressed gas engines out of the prior body styles. I haven't had to do any engine R&R on my 2017+ trucks but there is more room in these engine bays and the 7.3L is much narrower than an OHC.
Proper terminology would probably be to say remove the nose?
I did find the following video which shows a 7.3 long block replacement on a FedEx truck. Obviously, it's not going to be exactly the same for a super duty, but assuming the front of the super duty comes apart in a similar way, it seems the oil pan sump might be the biggest obstacle to pulling the engine straight out. Seems like it should be doable through, especially if you remove the intake. The video also shows what I assume is a fresh long block and the process of swapping over various parts. It'll be interesting to see if the long block part number for the super duty comes with the same components (injectors, some pulleys, etc).
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