what tools are required to pull a 7.3 engine
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 180
Likes: 1
what tools are required to pull a 7.3 engine
just asking other FTE what tools are used to pull a 7.3 engine
For those who read my other post my truck needs new crank shaft bearings.
a summary of what im gonna do with the truck. The ford dealer wants 6,000 for a crank shaft kit, 9,000 for a short block, 9500 for a long block and 11,000 for a drop in so im gonna work on it my self maybe a buy a rebuild kit for the engine.
thanks
For those who read my other post my truck needs new crank shaft bearings.
a summary of what im gonna do with the truck. The ford dealer wants 6,000 for a crank shaft kit, 9,000 for a short block, 9500 for a long block and 11,000 for a drop in so im gonna work on it my self maybe a buy a rebuild kit for the engine.
thanks
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 6
From: Ventura co.
You can find a new short block and long block from a few sponsors of this site for half those prices.
I'm sure others will chime in..
I don't know anything of this seller but here is a start..
http://www.diperformancetransmission...hortblock.html
I'm sure others will chime in..
I don't know anything of this seller but here is a start..
http://www.diperformancetransmission...hortblock.html
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
the 7.3 is crazy heavy. you will want the 2 ton engine crane if at all possible.
fuel line quick disconnect tool. good set of 1/4 and 3/8 sockets.. 10mm,13mm, 8mm, 16mm, and 18mm for the majority of them. pry bars. jack for under the transmission. a VERY sturdy and stable surface for the cherry picker.
you will also need some bolts to hold the motor on to the engine stand. the ones you pull from the motor are too short with the spacer/starter housing plate...and too long without it. the engine stand must be a serious one. when you pull the motor... it weighs 1100lbs or better.
cant remember what size the motor mount nuts were...21mm maybe
good luck...
PICTURES!!
fuel line quick disconnect tool. good set of 1/4 and 3/8 sockets.. 10mm,13mm, 8mm, 16mm, and 18mm for the majority of them. pry bars. jack for under the transmission. a VERY sturdy and stable surface for the cherry picker.
you will also need some bolts to hold the motor on to the engine stand. the ones you pull from the motor are too short with the spacer/starter housing plate...and too long without it. the engine stand must be a serious one. when you pull the motor... it weighs 1100lbs or better.
cant remember what size the motor mount nuts were...21mm maybe
good luck...
PICTURES!!
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
I use a 2ton HF cherry picker - its barely adequate, but does get the job done. The 1000lb HF engine stand however, is NOT adequate!!
Eventually, you need the tool for fan clutch (rent from Autozone, etc) or you can use a pipewrench and chain wrench. Some report using a punch to 'tap' the nut loose as well...
Since there is very little out there for a 'write-up' for engine removal, I'm gonna photo and document my upcoming engine-swap just for this reason. The engine removal will likely go down on Friday.
There is NO NEED to remove all the stuff off the front of the truck!! Not only does this R&R add HOURS to the job, it will require you to evacuate and recharge the AC system. Just remove AC compressor and set it over on the passenger-side of the engine compartment with the lines still hooked up. Pull the radiator the CAC and cross-support member above it - this leaves plenty of room to get the engine out!
I had this engine out in 4hrs...
Eventually, you need the tool for fan clutch (rent from Autozone, etc) or you can use a pipewrench and chain wrench. Some report using a punch to 'tap' the nut loose as well...
Since there is very little out there for a 'write-up' for engine removal, I'm gonna photo and document my upcoming engine-swap just for this reason. The engine removal will likely go down on Friday.
There is NO NEED to remove all the stuff off the front of the truck!! Not only does this R&R add HOURS to the job, it will require you to evacuate and recharge the AC system. Just remove AC compressor and set it over on the passenger-side of the engine compartment with the lines still hooked up. Pull the radiator the CAC and cross-support member above it - this leaves plenty of room to get the engine out!
I had this engine out in 4hrs...
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 180
Likes: 1
I use a 2ton HF cherry picker - its barely adequate, but does get the job done. The 1000lb HF engine stand however, is NOT adequate!!
Eventually, you need the tool for fan clutch (rent from Autozone, etc) or you can use a pipewrench and chain wrench. Some report using a punch to 'tap' the nut loose as well...
Since there is very little out there for a 'write-up' for engine removal, I'm gonna photo and document my upcoming engine-swap just for this reason. The engine removal will likely go down on Friday.
There is NO NEED to remove all the stuff off the front of the truck!! Not only does this R&R add HOURS to the job, it will require you to evacuate and recharge the AC system. Just remove AC compressor and set it over on the passenger-side of the engine compartment with the lines still hooked up. Pull the radiator the CAC and cross-support member above it - this leaves plenty of room to get the engine out!
I had this engine out in 4hrs...
Eventually, you need the tool for fan clutch (rent from Autozone, etc) or you can use a pipewrench and chain wrench. Some report using a punch to 'tap' the nut loose as well...
Since there is very little out there for a 'write-up' for engine removal, I'm gonna photo and document my upcoming engine-swap just for this reason. The engine removal will likely go down on Friday.
There is NO NEED to remove all the stuff off the front of the truck!! Not only does this R&R add HOURS to the job, it will require you to evacuate and recharge the AC system. Just remove AC compressor and set it over on the passenger-side of the engine compartment with the lines still hooked up. Pull the radiator the CAC and cross-support member above it - this leaves plenty of room to get the engine out!
I had this engine out in 4hrs...
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2011
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i was actually gonna ask about that would it do any damage though if not ill do that ill probably by 4 4 ton jack stands
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: N.GA Mountains
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
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eh dont really like the lumber idea but its a good suggestion 4 4 ton jack stand are only 70 buck at autozone
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
) with a 2x6 on top would probably be ok as well - but I'd have more faith in a solid chunk of wood. If you use jack stands, they'll need to go under the axle to get the truck down low enough. Chances are that jack stands under the frame won't be low enough with that lift, since the springs are gonna droop... Maybe throw the jack stands under the frame for good measure? Then the 'lumber' is just compressing the springs. 
I am just a dum redneck, but my job has been 'safety guy' for industrial construction for 20yrs. I would not post something I felt was dangerous - but please use your best judgement!!!
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2011
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I would argue that an 18" long 6x6 laying flat is more stable than a jackstand. It sure ain't gonna tip over!! Now, I would not recommend a stack of lumber - that wouldn't be very stable... A cinder block (the right way ) with a 2x6 on top would probably be ok as well - but I'd have more faith in a solid chunk of wood. If you use jack stands, they'll need to go under the axle to get the truck down low enough. Chances are that jack stands under the frame won't be low enough with that lift, since the springs are gonna droop... Maybe throw the jack stands under the frame for good measure? Then the 'lumber' is just compressing the springs.
I am just a dum redneck, but my job has been 'safety guy' for industrial construction for 20yrs. I would not post something I felt was dangerous - but please use your best judgement!!!
) with a 2x6 on top would probably be ok as well - but I'd have more faith in a solid chunk of wood. If you use jack stands, they'll need to go under the axle to get the truck down low enough. Chances are that jack stands under the frame won't be low enough with that lift, since the springs are gonna droop... Maybe throw the jack stands under the frame for good measure? Then the 'lumber' is just compressing the springs. I am just a dum redneck, but my job has been 'safety guy' for industrial construction for 20yrs. I would not post something I felt was dangerous - but please use your best judgement!!!
so how would i go about putting the truck on blocks?
thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
Jack it up under the axle, using jack stands like ya normally would and remove front tire. Then lower the axle down so you're landing on the wood blocks with the spring perch/u-bolts. If using cinder blocks, place them with holes UP and lay 2x6's over the holes - then lower the axle.....