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Old Jan 23, 2025 | 07:02 AM
  #1  
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Starter Issue

First time poster here.

2019 F-350 6.2L CC Dump Body with dual batteries, 60k miles.

Quick background. We’re in a cold snap here in VT. 3-day mean daily temp has been about 0F with lows -15F at night.

I used the factory key fob remote start to warm up the truck which started fine. It ran its allotted time and shut off. Then went to go start the truck with the key and now my starter does not spin. I can hear the solenoid click but no spin or engagement on the starter motor. Have tried jumping starter and also whacking on it to no avail. Also tried using remote start again. Batteries seem fine. There’s enough juice to lift and lower dump body.

Just wondering did the starter really just happen to go between the remote start and key start? Is there something else I should check before I drag it up the road to the mechanic in town? No interest in doing the starter myself in my unheated barn in these temps.

Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2025 | 07:25 AM
  #2  
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I've had a similar behavior in the past with another vehicle, where it simply clicked after otherwise starting normally earlier. Turned out to be poor connection of the battery cables to the battery terminals. Could be that the extreme cold temp might've affected the metal terminal ends on the cables and caused them to loosen due to metal shrinkage? You might check for corrosion or looseness. There might be connection enough for lights and other low-draw sources, but not enough to turn over the starter (but enough to activate the solenoid).

One other thing to check are the cables themselves. Broken ground cable(s) or poor grounding, perhaps.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2025 | 07:55 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by Vtsheepguy
First time poster here.

2019 F-350 6.2L CC Dump Body with dual batteries, 60k miles.

Quick background. We’re in a cold snap here in VT. 3-day mean daily temp has been about 0F with lows -15F at night.

I used the factory key fob remote start to warm up the truck which started fine. It ran its allotted time and shut off. Then went to go start the truck with the key and now my starter does not spin. I can hear the solenoid click but no spin or engagement on the starter motor. Have tried jumping starter and also whacking on it to no avail. Also tried using remote start again. Batteries seem fine. There’s enough juice to lift and lower dump body.

Just wondering did the starter really just happen to go between the remote start and key start? Is there something else I should check before I drag it up the road to the mechanic in town? No interest in doing the starter myself in my unheated barn in these temps.

Thanks.
Load check/test the batteries first before anything else.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2025 | 08:28 AM
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Yeah. bet you have one bad battery.
PCM will not let the starter engage if it sees a amperage issue.
The batteries need to be load tested, not just voltage tested.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2025 | 12:34 PM
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Update: Both batteries load tested fine.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2025 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Vtsheepguy
Update: Both batteries load tested fine.
For those that plan a load test:

Batteries need to be above 40-50F and fully charged (if they'll take a full charge), for a load test to be valid.

Which is a PIA in this weather, meaning bring them inside overnight, except for the rare heated garage.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2025 | 09:44 AM
  #7  
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It’s probably a bad starter however here is what I would do.
Get another vehicle and attach jumper cables to your truck then try and start it. If it starts fine or as normal then you probably have a battery issue. If still no turn of the starter have someone turn the key and leave the key in the full start position while you lay underneath and tap the starter with a hammer. I did this and was able to get the starter to turn and start the truck. Obviously this also means your starter has a problem and needs to be replaced.
If the starter still won’t turn after tapping then I would say your starter is dead.

Good luck,

Mike
 
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Old Jan 24, 2025 | 10:41 AM
  #8  
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Well… test light indicates there’s constant power to the + battery starter stud and power to the solenoid when the key is turned to start position. So I’m leaning heavily towards bad starter. Have one arriving Monday.

Ltngdrvr, will the PCM still send power to the starter in improper battery condition but result in no start? My last vehicle was a 2008 so some of these new computer controlled electronics are new to me.

The timing of the starter going completely, with no prior signs, immediately after a remote start in these cold conditions had me thinking it was possibly some electrical gremlin. Perhaps not.

Temps are rising to the balmy 30’s this weekend so won’t be quite as bad working on it.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2025 | 11:24 AM
  #9  
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Did you try the age old hammer trick?

Sometimes the old methods still work.

Bob
 
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Old Jan 31, 2025 | 10:32 AM
  #10  
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I had similar situation. I drove about 15 miles. Went in an office for 20-30 min. Came out and turned key and nothing ….. checked everything …. It was starter.

i was about 5 miles from a starter shop I’ve used before. Towed it to him and he pulled, tested and rebuilt …. About $150 repair. (Plus a tow charge )
 
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