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Rebuild it,
Purchase a Walker kit, Made in USA at Orilley's.
Check the throtle body to be sure it is not worn and sloppy.
If it is,, no problem, just order the correct reamer,, 3/8 or 5/16 and bushings.
Alex
Here's how bad off I am - I wouldn't know a throttle body from a peanut butter sandwich. I guess I'm about to read my shop manual, look at the parts catalog, and figure it out.
Thank you for your input. I'll let y'all know how it goes.
Just buy a new Holley and be done with it. if you want an electric choke you'll have to put a kit on it but no big deal.
People expect everything to have a lifespan except a carburetor, those are supposed to be good for 7,000 years. they're not. you won't regret buying a new one and it's last 50 years like the last one.
I have the funds to buy new, and that'd get me further down the restoration road much more quickly than a rebuild.
Was there a great deal of tuning required when you installed your new Holley, or was it more plug and play?
I went down the re-build, and the re-man. Carbs, ultimately got the Holley 2bbl, and I do not regret it,
Thank you for sharing your experience and ultimate solution with me. As I asked another guy who took time to respond to my post, did your new Holley require a lot of tuning after installation, or did it run correctly out of the box (and installed, of course)?
The engine is a 360. When you push the accelerator pedal, she "stumbles" as if there's not enough fuel. I've not yet taken the carb off to see if there's debris in the bowl, but, given the neglect the truck experienced before I bought her in June, my guess is that something is up in the carburetor. I've also not yet changed the fuel filter or fuel pump. Should I do those too before I look at the carb?
A.S.
Well that is classic carb behavior. The stock 2100 2 bbl style carb is a holley design, simple as can be. Stumble on tip in? or stumble on part throttle?
If tip in, the accel pump diaphragm may be damaged. Look down the barrels and open throttle. Does it squirt fuel?
If part throttle stumble, that can be either damaged power valve, a partially obstructed main jet, or an obstructed passage.
A carb rebuild kit comes with a accel pump diagrams and a power valve. When you have it apart, clean passages and jets. That's it.
out of the box, all I did was set idle, and idle air mixutre, I dont think the entore job took me more than an hr, and I was down the road again, I have had the carb in the truck for about 3 yrs now, and no complaints
Sadly without an air fuel ratio gauge to tune a carb, it can be pig rich or dangerously lean and you can't really tell. But that has been the case for decades and trucks still go down the road.
A change of 1 or 2 main jet sizes makes a HUGE difference.
The Holley carb on which I had my eye is a manual choke model, and mine is an electric choke. I've watched a dozen videos on rebuilds, so I'm going to go that route. I reconnoitered the carb yesterday, and there's a significant fuel leak from the accelerator pump. From what I understand that's a sure sign a rebuild is required and is a cause of the issues I've been experiencing. Off to the Rock Auto website to order my parts.
You have to install the electric choke kit on the Holley. for whatever reason they don't offer one installed.
It will run fine out of the box, since I'm at 3200' elevation I always jet down 2 sizes before I install a new one and it seems to work out fine. your plugs will tell you.
when a new car left the factory it was jetted the same no matter where it was going. it's easy to put more thought into it than is needed.
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