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Is there any reason I'd want to deal with all the aggravation of having the stock 2bbl carb on my '74 F100 repaired (assuming I can find someone with the skills to do that) rather than just buying a replacement?
If the latter, would I be better off buying a rebuilt carburetor from my online parts house (about $250.00 +/-) or buying a new Holley carb that is essentially the same as the one I'm removing (about $475.00). In my mind, Holley is the go-to name in carburetors, but what is it I'd be getting for my money versus buying a rebuild?
I looked into this a while ago for our 76 F-100 with the 300 I6. The carbs that Rock Auto advertises specifically mention that the throttle shaft bores are inspected and bushing installed if out of round or leaking. I think that's the most common frustration people have with rebuilt carbs. The throttle shaft bore wears and no matter what you do there is an unmetered vacuum leak that is very difficult to find and you can't tune around it. Aside from that, cheap parts seem to proliferate the market these days so that's a huge problem too.
Can't go wrong with Holley. It's just a matter of cost at this point.
Personally, rebuilding a carb is fairly easy, get a nice workstation/table/workbench, lay out a white towel, disassemble, clean, re-assemble, most older carbs just need cleaned and new gaskets, I've only ran into one that the core itself was shot. A carb kit and rebuild can be done with a screwdriver and needle nose, put it back together the same way it came apart, just clean with new gaskets and parts. YOU CAN DO IT! Is the best part, you can learn AND don't have to pay someone to do it. The old Motorcraft 2bbl's are one of the simplest to do, I used to be scared sh-less to take one apart, now it's one of the first things I do when I get a "new" old truck along with plugs/cap/rotor/wires/points if it has them.
So simple, even a caveman can do it (me) If you're dead set on buying a new one, why not go whole hog and buy a 4 bbl intake and 4 bbl carb..? You didn't say which engine, but it's more than likely a 360.. adding a 4 bbl, and a tune-up will give you a bit more smiles per gallon. I went with a Weiand intake and a Summit 500 cfm carb on my 351Measly during my rebuild, along with cam, lifters and HEI, huge improvement.
Rebuild it,
Purchase a Walker kit, Made in USA at Orilley's.
Check the throtle body to be sure it is not worn and sloppy.
If it is,, no problem, just order the correct reamer,, 3/8 or 5/16 and bushings.
Alex
Last edited by Old Guy F-250; Jan 22, 2025 at 02:41 PM.
Reason: Made in USA
Buying a 'new' turd of a carburetor with unknown jetting is a crap shoot.
Buying a new Holley with known but not necessarily correct jetting is expensive but at least a quality piece. Doesn't mean it will run right
So, what is the problem with the existing carb? What engine?
Just buy a new Holley and be done with it. if you want an electric choke you'll have to put a kit on it but no big deal.
People expect everything to have a lifespan except a carburetor, those are supposed to be good for 7,000 years. they're not. you won't regret buying a new one and it's last 50 years like the last one.
I bought a 77 ford f350 460 motor with stock carb. It would take forever to get started. The auto shop said it was the carb and recommended a full replacement as the Ford one on the 460 was very "complicated". I bought a Holley or Edelbrock carb I cant remember now....and after it was tuned or whatever it is still had to start and it is complicated enough too and while power response seemed to increase a little, gas mileage went down. The mechanic then said I should have bought one with an electric choke or something like that, so F them now...... long story short...my 78 (351M, stock carb)started having carb problems........ instead of buying a new one for this one, I had a small engine mechanic completely replace and clean the internals of the carb using a carb overhaul kit from autozone (I did have to buy some extra parts as some things did not come in the kit; very cheap though)......and I absolutely love it now.
I am glad I didnt throw away the one on the 460....I am having the same lawn mower mechanic shop redo it and we will see.......! Now........if you want to think further ...I believe there are fuel injection conversions you can look at...I know for old mustangs you can get what are called Holley Sniper kits and stuff...........Good luck!
appsurvivor, the stock carb is simple and easy to rebuild and then it's still a crap shoot if it will run perfect in my experience. i have rebuilt and it ran like new, i have also rebuilt and even replaced the throttle shaft bushings and still couldn't get it to run to my liking.
if your truck runs, spray some flammable carb/brake cleaner on both sides of the throttle shaft and around the base gaskets. any change in rpm is an indicator of a problem.
look closely for other vacuum leaks as well.
if you have the time, try rebuilding it yourself, the kit won't break the bank and you will learn about your carb, tuning etc. make sure to replace the carb base gaskets also.
i agree with the others, holley 2bbl is the way to go if replacing the carb.
Buying a 'new' turd of a carburetor with unknown jetting is a crap shoot.
Buying a new Holley with known but not necessarily correct jetting is expensive but at least a quality piece. Doesn't mean it will run right
So, what is the problem with the existing carb? What engine?
The engine is a 360. When you push the accelerator pedal, she "stumbles" as if there's not enough fuel. I've not yet taken the carb off to see if there's debris in the bowl, but, given the neglect the truck experienced before I bought her in June, my guess is that something is up in the carburetor. I've also not yet changed the fuel filter or fuel pump. Should I do those too before I look at the carb?
I looked into this a while ago for our 76 F-100 with the 300 I6. The carbs that Rock Auto advertises specifically mention that the throttle shaft bores are inspected and bushing installed if out of round or leaking. I think that's the most common frustration people have with rebuilt carbs. The throttle shaft bore wears and no matter what you do there is an unmetered vacuum leak that is very difficult to find and you can't tune around it. Aside from that, cheap parts seem to proliferate the market these days so that's a huge problem too.
Can't go wrong with Holley. It's just a matter of cost at this point.
I'm torn between taking on the challenge of rebuilding the carburetor and taking pride in my accomplishment and buying a quality piece of equipment from a known name like Holley. As you note, even if I successfully rebuild the carb, there could very well be issues with parts not fixed by a rebuild, and I really don't need more frustration in my life OR truck restoration experience. Like you, I also view some of the rebuild products out there with suspicion. A rebuild water pump or brake caliper is one thing, but a carb is so technical with such small tolerances.
Personally, rebuilding a carb is fairly easy, get a nice workstation/table/workbench, lay out a white towel, disassemble, clean, re-assemble, most older carbs just need cleaned and new gaskets, I've only ran into one that the core itself was shot. A carb kit and rebuild can be done with a screwdriver and needle nose, put it back together the same way it came apart, just clean with new gaskets and parts. YOU CAN DO IT! Is the best part, you can learn AND don't have to pay someone to do it. The old Motorcraft 2bbl's are one of the simplest to do, I used to be scared sh-less to take one apart, now it's one of the first things I do when I get a "new" old truck along with plugs/cap/rotor/wires/points if it has them.
So simple, even a caveman can do it (me) If you're dead set on buying a new one, why not go whole hog and buy a 4 bbl intake and 4 bbl carb..? You didn't say which engine, but it's more than likely a 360.. adding a 4 bbl, and a tune-up will give you a bit more smiles per gallon. I went with a Weiand intake and a Summit 500 cfm carb on my 351Measly during my rebuild, along with cam, lifters and HEI, huge improvement.
You're speaking to the "no unmet challenge" side of me. I could always give rebuilding a go and, if I don't get the fix I seek, buy the Holley. I'm not particularly adept at patience-required, detail-oriented work, but this might be the task to teach me some of those skills.
Disclaimer: personal experience but - when I decided to rebuild the 2150 that came with my 360 (also 2bbl) - the problem I've encountered was a lack of a dogtag to give us the true part number and thus what was needed to rebuild. I tried 3 different kits and it never ever wanted to idle right no matter what was done. Ultimately I slapped a Holley Street Avenger 500 CFM 2bbl - yes a bit of an overkill - but it's been 2.5 years and it has not skipped a beat.